I was committed to updating the information pertaining the amp rating for the Maxifuses I used in the fuse block that replaced the fusible links but I'm embarrassed to admit I can't locate that post. Moderator's help in properly placing this update will be appreciated.

Anyhow, here's the update. I have been running this set-up (pics below) for a couple of months without issues. The consensus was to decrease the amp rating of the fuses used as much as was logically possible to test how well they protected each circuit. I've made a point of driving with as much electrical draw as possible with the AC, headlights, sound system, turn signals when necessary, hazard lights and horn when possible. The only system I haven't used simultaneously is the windshield wipers/washer because I don't take the car out in the rain. 

The circuits have been identified on the decal on the inside of the case cover.

Despite the information on the Atlantic Z page regarding amp ratings for the different color fusible links, my current  (no pun intended) set-up is much lower and, as stated previously, seems to be working well. 

Circuit 1 (ACC): 50 amps,  Circuit 2 (IGN): 30 amps,  Circuit 3 (H.L.) 25 amps,  Circuit 4 (IGN) 20 amps

 

looks really clean, can you share more pictures of how it looks in the engine bay?

looks really clean, can you share more pictures of how it looks in the engine bay?

Sure! Here's a couple more. I placed the fuse block inside a watertight acrylic case at the same position in the engine bay where the fusible links were located. I posted a little write up on it a couple of months ago.

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Hihi.. just curious.. you blew the 25A because now it's a 30A fuse (green) ??

looks really clean, can you share more pictures of how it looks in the engine bay?

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62868-waterproofing-a-fuse-block/&share_tid=62868&share_fid=83168&share_type=t&link_source=app

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Hihi.. just curious.. you blew the 25A because now it's a 30A fuse (green) ??

No, the 30 amp fuse held up fine but the idea is to find the lowest rating fuse that will still protect the circuit in case of a short, that way your cables won't fry before your fuse blows. I actually started with a 50 amp fuse in that circuit and have been working my way down to 25 amps which is likely where I'll stop as long as it holds under all normal loads.

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Hihi.. just curious.. you blew the 25A because now it's a 30A fuse (green) ??

I just realized the cause of your confusion is that the pics are out of sequence. My bad, sorry. The pic with the 30 amp fuse is older and the one with the 25 amp fuse is the newer with my current set-up.

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Your work might save some future wiring harnesses if people follow it.  

If somebody had time, and a pile of fusible links, and a power source, they could probably define an approximate equivalent, fusible link to maxi-fuse.  Just for fun.  But if you don't need the excess amperage, it makes no sense to have a higher rating.

Your work might save some future wiring harnesses if people follow it.  
If somebody had time, and a pile of fusible links, and a power source, they could probably define an approximate equivalent, fusible link to maxi-fuse.  Just for fun.  But if you don't need the excess amperage, it makes no sense to have a higher rating.

That's exactly the idea. I was motivated to do this because I caused a short in my wiring (about a year ago) which my fusible links did not protect. Part of the harness fried and the fusible link insulation melted but the wire remained intact. I was able to disconnect the positive battery terminal. If not, I may have had to deal with the consequences of a fire.
I had inherited from the p.o. the fusible links with one black and three brown wires (as is commonly accepted) but there's a lot of discussion about the correct choice of link gauge for proper protection, as you know.

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