Care in Removing Gas Tank Parts

[mdbrandy]

I'm slowly going through disconnecting stuff getting ready to remove the gas tank. As expected, most of the screw clamps, bracket screws, and bolts are pretty corroded, but I've removed most everything so far and I'm starting on the strap bolts. The upper one came loose without too much trouble, but I'm having a time with the lower (left) one. If the darned strap didn't try to twist, it'd be a lot easier. Even with a 14mm flare wrench on the nut above the bracket, it is very hard to keep the bracket/strap from twisting with a socket on the lower nut. I've now been soaking it overnight in WD40 to see if that helps when I try again tonight. So, my main question here is how careful should I be with these straps? The tank looks OK so far, but the straps are pretty rusty, and the "padding" or whatever it is called between the straps and the tank is in really tough shape. I don't see new straps or cushioning in any of the catalogs (MSA, VB) that I have, so if I managed to damage the strap that I'm having trouble with, is that going to cause me huge headaches to get replaced? It would be nice just to cut the darned strap if they were available :devious: .

Thanks.

[2ManyZs]

I've never seen new straps advertised, so your only solution might be finding a set of used ones.....

The padding can be replaced with a plain piece of rubber. Buy that at the local hardware store and cut it to fit.

[mdbrandy]

Originally posted by 2ManyZs

I've never seen new straps advertised, so your only solution might be finding a set of used ones.....

I'll just be as careful as I can, and hopefully, the strap will survive...

The padding can be replaced with a plain piece of rubber. Buy that at the local hardware store and cut it to fit.

I'd thought about that, but since I didn't have them off yet, I wasn't real sure what the padding was. Sounds easy enough.

Thanks.

[kmack]

Soaking the threads of the strap bolt is good, but also take a small wire brush and clean out threads. They see a lot of road grime over the years and all kinds of gunk can build up in those threads. And that is what is making it difficult to get the nut off.

[EScanlon]

If you've already worked the strap loose enough that it is twisting, you might have it loose enough to unhook at the back part of the car.

Look in the rear most portion of the tank. You should see a diamond shaped hole that the end of the tank strap fits into. The strap has a "T" shaped end that fits into the hole at the wide point and then slides down into the narrow end of the hole. If you have the strap loose enough that it is starting to twist, you might be able to push up on the strap until the end slips out of the hole. Or try to lift the hook bolt at the front out of the receiving hole.

Other than that, you'll have to soak the nuts in PENETRATING OIL, not WD-40. WD although a good water displacer and light lubricant does not really creep in between the pieces like a good penetrating oil will. When I did my tank, I found that if I first shot it full of penetrating oil, then TIGHTENED the nut and let it sit, it would penetrate the threads much better. Then it was simple to loosen the strap.

FWIW

Enrique Scanlon

[mdbrandy]

Originally posted by EScanlon

If you've already worked the strap loose enough that it is twisting, you might have it loose enough to unhook at the back part of the car.

Look in the rear most portion of the tank. You should see a diamond shaped hole that the end of the tank strap fits into. The strap has a "T" shaped end that fits into the hole at the wide point and then slides down into the narrow end of the hole. If you have the strap loose enough that it is starting to twist, you might be able to push up on the strap until the end slips out of the hole.

I hadn't looked at the back side. I'll do that ASAP when I get home.

Originally posted by EScanlon

Or try to lift the hook bolt at the front out of the receiving hole.

Tried that. Not loose enough to do it yet.

Originally posted by EScanlon

Other than that, you'll have to soak the nuts in PENETRATING OIL, not WD-40.

Hmm. I guess I should know the difference, but I don't. I'll stop by the hardware store on my way home and ask for "penetrating oil". Any specific brand(s) that work best?

Thanks a bunch - Any new techniques to get some of these old rusted fasteners loose will be useful forever!

[mdbrandy]

Originally posted by kmack

Soaking the threads of the strap bolt is good, but also take a small wire brush and clean out threads. They see a lot of road grime over the years and all kinds of gunk can build up in those threads. And that is what is making it difficult to get the nut off.

Yeah, I thought of that, and while I haven't been too diligent about it, I soaked the threads with WD40 and wiped, scraped, and cleaned them reasonably well near the nuts. Since it still won't come, I'll try a brass brush as well as Enrique's suggested pentrating oil.

Thanks!

[2ManyZs]

PB Blaster is a pretty good penetrating oil.

Be careful you don't end up snapping the J-bolt off as well as messing up the strap, they aren't too easy to find either...

I soaked mine with PB for a day or two before I tried to get mine off. You will need a fair bit of play to get the strap out of the rear "T" mount, so every little bit you can loosen the nut will help, so if you get a little more slack each day, that will help. If you get real close, I guess you could always bend the J-bolt bracket back towards the tank just a bit if you need just a little bit more slack in the strap to get it loose.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by mdbrandy

I'll stop by the hardware store on my way home and ask for "penetrating oil". Any specific brand(s) that work best?

Since you are in the middle of a job, this may not help you today, but check out SILI-KROIL made by Kano Laboratories in Nashville, TN. It is the best penetrating oil that I have found. It is only available by mail-order, but works SO good that it is worth the bit of hassle to order ahead of time. I use it often and I've never had it fail.

I've used it on:

• Manifold studs / nuts
  
• Brake line fittings
  
• gas tank strap bolts (after brushing off the undercoating stuck in the threads)
  
• rusty suspension components
  
• bumper bracket bolts / nuts
  
• Thermostat housing bolts ( many of you KNOW how tough these are to loosen!)
  

[mdbrandy]

Originally posted by BambiKiller240

Since you are in the middle of a job, this may not help you today, but check out SILI-KROIL made by Kano Laboratories in Nashville, TN.

Just ordered some. May not come in time to help with the gas tank (unless it just won't come off with anything else), but I still have to go:

• Brake line fittings
• rusty suspension components
  
• rear bumper bracket bolts / nuts
  
• Thermostat housing bolts
  
• Gas and brake line bracket bolts.
  

All my local Lowe's had was some "3-in-one Penetrant". We'll see what it and some more cleaning does.

Thanks!

[26th-Z]

Looks like I may be a clown on the vapor recirculating tank issue, Mark. May have been one of those plastic tank explanations. My research isn't looking good.

I use PB Blaster, but any penetrating oil will work better than WD-40. I want to try the Sili-Kroil. Soaking has always brought me luck on the tough ones. Soak it for days - keep it wet!

Gas tank straps and J-bolts are hard to come buy because they all rusted.

I finally got my Parker 821 braided hose and it looks great.

[mdbrandy]

You guys rock! Correcting my ignorance of the wonders of real penetrating oil allowed me to get the j-bolts off with no damage to bolts, nuts, or straps. Spent 20 minutes with a knife cleaning out the threads and around the nuts, soaked for a couple hours, and, while not easy, it came off fairly smoothly. Thanks! Pic of the successful surgery attached. See my other thread on tank vents for a couple more thoughts...