On 3/14/2020 at 7:21 AM, madkaw said:

I have not measured ,  but they seem to be the advertised 18 gauge which is plenty thick for the floors . I think 16 gauge would be better for her floor frame rails, but can not say whether 16 is stock thickness or not . If installed correctly these floors would look more stock then previous ones I installed( I’ve only done floors once before )  . The seat pedestals are better than anything else on the market - that I know of . 

I still remember having to beat the snot out of my Zedd floors to get the tunnel side to fit correctly . It was also hard to maintain a level floor install for some reason - maybe the stamping was slightly off or just user error ?

 

I got a set of ZF pans for 240z, when I looked at the tunnel area on the new pans, I got a little concerned. I plan on cutting as low as possible on the tunnerl to not have to start getting Big F Hammers out.

How did it go for you? Any advice?

I did get the KF seat mounts.

Edited October 19, 20204 yr by DC871F

I slot the floor pans every 2"s or so on the edge. This allows me to adjust the edge to match the tunnel. Then seam up the slots when it's all tacked in

Look at Whee's thread where he's doing floor pans (like page 200 out of 600 )

8 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I slot the floor pans every 2"s or so on the edge. This allows me to adjust the edge to match the tunnel. Then seam up the slots when it's all tacked in

Look at Whee's thread where he's doing floor pans (like page 200 out of 600 )

I have been to his thread many times, and when I think to go look for something I chuckle, its like an Easter egg hunt. I do remember him cutting pretty large slits in there. How far do you cut into the pan? 

Charlies floor pans don't have the curves on the inside to match the tranny tunnel. I cut into them until I can shape the petals of the floor pane to match the tunnel. Then I zip screw it in place. I take a cut off wheel or body saw and cut through both layers of metal in one area. That makes it exactly the right size. Tack it and move on. When it's all tacked, dolly it to a nice shape and weld it off

6 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Charlies floor pans don't have the curves on the inside to match the tranny tunnel. I cut into them until I can shape the petals of the floor pane to match the tunnel. Then I zip screw it in place. I take a cut off wheel or body saw and cut through both layers of metal in one area. That makes it exactly the right size. Tack it and move on. When it's all tacked, dolly it to a nice shape and weld it off

Ok, I think I understand. Cut the slots, shape each one then attach to the tunnel, correct? 

I been watching the guy on youtube "Fitzee Fabrications", and he has a video on doing that technique for butt welds.

Thanks so much.

28 minutes ago, DC871F said:

Ok, I think I understand. Cut the slots, shape each one then attach to the tunnel, correct? 

I been watching the guy on youtube "Fitzee Fabrications", and he has a video on doing that technique for butt welds.

Thanks so much.

Yes, that is the basic idea. I use a heel dolly to shape them because it has a similar radius to the factory floor pans

2 hours ago, Patcon said:

I slot the floor pans every 2"s or so on the edge. This allows me to adjust the edge to match the tunnel. Then seam up the slots when it's all tacked in

Look at Whee's thread where he's doing floor pans (like page 200 out of 600 )

These floor pans from KF match up with the tunnel really well. No need to slot floor pans and a BFH , they fit .