There are more sophisticated options to control spark.  Lock out the advance mechanism of the distributor and it becomes essentially like a CAS on the damper pulley.  Similar to what you get with the 123 except you use your original distributor.

https://www.cbperformance.com/CB-s-Black-Box-Programmable-Timing-Control-Module-p/2013.htm

You could also go to a crank trigger and something like Megasquirt or Microsquirt.

If you want reliability and inexpensive ignition modules, convert any of your three distributors to use a GM HEI module.  About $25 each.  

 

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

There are more sophisticated options to control spark.  Lock out the advance mechanism of the distributor and it becomes essentially like a CAS on the damper pulley.  Similar to what you get with the 123 except you use your original distributor.

https://www.cbperformance.com/CB-s-Black-Box-Programmable-Timing-Control-Module-p/2013.htm

You could also go to a crank trigger and something like Megasquirt or Microsquirt.

If you want reliability and inexpensive ignition modules, convert any of your three distributors to use a GM HEI module.  About $25 each.  

 

He’s right - there’s alternatives . With the Megasquirt I would want to go all in and have it run everything though . HEI would be nifty . 

Alll great great info guys just what needed. Thank you.
So I got one of mine apart and it’s not as complicated as I anticipated. I’m going to try and clean it all up, maybe get a new vac advance and see what happens. Also, I’m going to exchange the other one I got from the JR for another one they have sitting on a 79. Engine. They have a 30 day policy. The 79 will have a E12 80 module from what I have read. Both of mine here have the E12 92 and I’ve been reading that the side connector on that module will disrupt my timing by 8 deg if not connected. I think there is a work around on that but I haven’t gotten that far on my research. Does anyone know I need to look for when putting this back together. I read the the magnet can go bad. I didn’t know magnets went bad???


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The magnet is circular.  It tends to break.

You have seen the atlanticz write up haven't you? I'm sure you have but I can't remember reading that.

I've had two ZX dizzys with ball bearings stuck to the magnetic part. I would make sure those were in place and their plastic holder looked good. I have know idea how many there's supposed to be. For some reason I think I've read 8 in each half?

On 2/29/2020 at 4:47 AM, Av8ferg said:

The 79 will have a E12 80 module from what I have read. Both of mine here have the E12 92 and I’ve been reading that the side connector on that module will disrupt my timing by 8 deg if not connected. I think there is a work around on that but I haven’t gotten that far on my research. 

The E12-92 will work exactly like the E12-80 if you only use the C & B connections. I've been running the E12-92 module for years this way.

The E12-92 will work exactly like the E12-80 if you only use the C & B connections. I've been running the E12-92 module for years this way.

Can you clarify what you mean by the C & B connections?



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In the picture you linked to the connections on the top of the matchbox are labeled C & B. The other 2 on the side are labeled I & W, leave those disconnected and the E12-92 will work just like the E12-80 which only has the C & B connections.

Edited March 1, 20205 yr by w3wilkes

Weren't those other two somehow connected to the crank sensor on the later ZXs?

Don't know what I & W were for since I didn't need or use them.

They advance the timing based on temperature, just like the 280Z distributors do, using the ignition module instead of the two pickup coils in the distributor.  It's shown on page EL-26 of the 1983 FSM.

I'd post a picture but there's something wrong with the forum.  Out of storage space, I believe.  "Image could not be saved.  Please contact us for assistance." "Upload failed". 

 @Mike

Ok try again...