New guy

[pakz]

Hello everyone,

i recently brought home my 260z( on a trailer) and am ready to try and get her running again. Car has sat for 10 years and has the original flat tops with everything else stock. The plan is to do the following: order a pair of SU’s from z therapy, new plugs and wires, battery etc. I was planning on keeping the existing balance tube as I’m not concerned with how things will look, but would like to know if this will function the same as a 240 tube if things are plugged up properly? Also z therapy offers a conversion plate that would allow me to use the 260 air cleaner and I wonder if anyone has had luck with this.

If anyone has suggestions/recommendations on these parts before I start purchasing would greatly appreciate.  I am definitely not a mechanic but want to learn and do as much as I can. I will have the help of someone who knows a lot more than me.

thanks in advance, this forum rocks!

 

[siteunseen]

Don't try to crank it yet with that 10 year old gas.  Drain that crap then put a filter straight out of the tank.  This is a 280's but you'll get the idea.  For my 240 a Fram G2 works best.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

Oh yeah, welcome to the forum.  A lot of information here plus some laughs, mostly tongue in cheek stuff though.  I/we kid around a lot.

Post some pics of that 260!  We enjoy looking at other peoples stuff.

Edited March 5, 2020 by siteunseen

[Zed Head]

2 hours ago, pakz said:

i recently brought home my 260z( on a trailer) and am ready to try and get her running again. Car has sat for 10 years and has the original flat tops with everything else stock. The plan is to do the following: order a pair of SU’s from z therapy, 

What do you know about the engine?  Why was it parked?  You might get the engine spinning with starting fluid before spending on new carbs.

Like site says though, clean things up first.  Check your air passages, the intake manifold, etc.  Squirt oil in the cylinders and let it soak for a while.  Take the valve cover off and check the cam shaft.  Spin the engine by hand and with the starter and no plugs to make sure it doesn't have a rod about to poke through the block. 

Basically, try to be sure the engine is worth spending money on.  Then start spending.

[siteunseen]

Something else I remembered that is a lot easier on carbed cars that have old gas is put the fuel pickup in a small jerry can of gas, bypassing the fuel tank altogether. Run a hose from the "in" on the fuel filter behind the radiator to the gas can. You can strap it down and go for a short ride in your new "ride".  The fuel tanks are bad to crud up and rust if they're left sitting low of fuel.

[SoCalJim]

Hi pakz.  We’re dying to see pics of your new-to-you 260Z!  ?

[pakz]

Thanks for the info guys. I bought the car around 12 years ago and drove it for a couple years. Have loved these cars since I first saw them. Moved around a bit and let it sit without starting it and then wouldn’t start. Was able to keep it in a garage the whole time and finally have a decent garage of my own to bring it to. Had to work rear passenger wheel with a small mallet and breaker bar to free it and get her to roll. I believe the engine is good but will take the precautions mentioned above. Thanks again siteunseen, zedhead and socal. I’m not too tech savvy but will learn how to navigate this forum. Will post some pics. Interior is pretty solid and odometer is around 56k, not sure if that’s gone around a spin or not but I’ve put very few miles on

[Zed Head]

In Chicago you have some pretty big temperature swings.  Wouldn't be a surprise to find your gas tank rusted, due to condensation.  Might even find some water in the oil pan. Carb float bowls probably dried out.  Drain the oil and the fuel tank and you'll know a lot more about how much work is in front of you.  Good luck.

[Dave WM]

Number one thing would be that fuel tank, and the steel line can rust up (fuel and brake). Lots of problems can be traced back to poor fuel delivery. When I got an engine that sat for a long time, I did the marvel oil in plug holes, drained old oil out, new oil in, plugs out spin engine (if not stuck) and watch the camshaft spray bar to make sure  oil pressure came up. Plugs out lets it spin faster to help with the oil pressure check. I also pour some assy lube on the cam shaft  before cranking. You may need a new water pump if the anti freeze was not drained, the impeller can rust badly. Something to watch out for is the nuts are often seized and can sheer off easy making a simple job a all day affair. T stat and water pump are typical maintenance items that can break bolts and ruin your day. There are lots of techniques, most include some form of shock and heat approach. Nothing is sure fire, but if you just manhandle it with a big wrench you will surely tear off a few. Use of PB blaster and heat from a MAP gas torch is a good starting point. I like to tap them pretty firmly to shock the rust bond then tighten a bit before trying to loosen. Good luck and get some pics.

 

[Dave WM]

this is me messing with an unknown status engine.

 

[Dave WM]

One last thing to consider, and I consider this an item that ALL L series engine owners should consider. Look a the timing chain guide on the tight side (thermostat side) next time you have the valve cover off. if you see grooves worn into it from the chain, do yourself a favor and replace the chain guide (as a minimum, check the chain for wear and replace that too if needed) but really just replace that guide. On my long trip, the guide must have been worn enough to allow the chain to rip into the metal part and tore if off completely. I got lucky, the guide fell harmlessly down inside the timing chain cover, but I consider that just luck. Its not too difficult a job to do, can be done with the engine in the car (remove the rad for access, relocate the compressor if needed but keep it connected of course to not vent Freon). replace both guides and tensioner would be best practice, and the front seal of course. I would look at this with any engine with 100k or more miles. Its a few hours if you are only replacing guides and seals, don't even need to remove the chain if its not worn.

[pakz]

Been away for a minute guys. Thanks for the good info Dave WM. The engine is free and was able to turn over. The gas tank was empty so hopefully this helped with rust issues.(it evaporated or that’s why I couldn’t get it to start a few years back lol) ordered a bunch of stuff from z store and a pair of round top carbs from z therapy. Going to check all brake and fuel lines and replace shoes, pads and bushings and ball joints on front end. Took a few pics and going to get done what I can in my free time. thanks again all

[Reptoid Overlords]

Is that penetrating oil on the side of the block under where the manifolds were?