78 280Z rear strut removal

[One Way]

Tackling the rear suspension components on this resurrection project.  Best suggestions for removing the struts out of the housings.  I have been spraying all the parts with Blaster, using a breaker bar with a cheater pipe, and a little heat if needed in the tear down of the rear suspension.  So far so good but no luck on the struts seized into the housings.  Pipe wrench and cheater bar did not do anything to break the corrosion and I am not too excited about applying any heat around the struts.  Any advice from other rusty Z experts?  Also wondering about the springs.  They look fine but rusty and over 40 years old.  Clean and paint or buy new?  Thanks in advance for any help. John=Lugoff, SC.

[Zed Head]

Did you get the gland nut off?  Not clear what's stuck.

[heyitsrama]

the only way i was able to remove my front driver side was to drill out a hole in the bottom then stick a allthread rod inside and beat it out of the housing. Once you get it out its going to be super nasty and a pain to insert a new strut tube inside, so i took one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-sanders/grinding-cutting-wheels/2-inch-polycarbide-abrasive-wheel-brush-94013.html extended it on a rod then through it into a drill to clean the inside of the tube. After that weld up the hole you made and your done.

 

If you're talking about the glant nut that ZedHead is refering to, i welded a tube onto the top of the nut, then used a pipe wrench on the tube, which combined with the heat from the welding, and a 6ft cheater bar it came loose.

 

heres a thread i had about it.

Edited March 11, 2020 by heyitsrama
added more info

[One Way]

Dummy me alert!  After reading some of the info here, I now realize the actual strut goes down into the receiver tube.  I initially thought the receiver tube was the actual strut.  Next step is a spring compressor purchase and then attempt to remove the strut from the receiver tube.  The boots are torn, the rods pretty scuffed up, time for new struts and boots.  I probably will just keep those receiver tubes attached to the axle bearing housing and clean and paint as needed.  Will keep you posted.  Thanks, John.

[jfa.series1]

Unless you just want to own a set of spring compressors, check with your local auto supply such as Auto Zone or O'Reilly's that have tools to loan at no cost.  If the last set of shocks was installed into the strut without some oil, you may find they have become rust welded to the inside of the tube.

[Dave WM]

 

[One Way]

I believe these to be the original struts on the car.  Last verified vehicle registration was 1995.  it has been sitting since then.  I purchased the resurrection project about four years ago .The strut spring compressor tool is inexpensive enough to purchase and have whenever needed.  It will probably be next week before I can get back at the Z project.  Is oil the way to go when reinstalling new struts into the receiver tubes or would anti-seize or high quality grease work as well.  The few struts I have replaced on our newer personal vehicles were all one piece units that simply bolted into place and I wrongly assumed these rear struts were similar in design and sat in the pocket of the rear axle housing.  If I had any brains that worked I should have noticed the replacement strut pictures had nothing to support the coil spring.  Now I know how the Z cars have the struts designed and looking forward to the challenge.  Thanks again.  Keep the helpful tips coming, John-Lugoff, SC

[S30Driver]

A liberal amount of grease will work fine John, especially at the bottom of the strut tube.  Try to clean up the inside of the tube with some kind of wire brush before installation.  In days gone by, many used oil to aid in the heat transfer of the strut cartridge to the housing - no longer necessary with modern cartridges.  Be careful with that spring compressor - a lot of stored energy in those springs when compressed.

[Terrapin Z]

I used a small bead hone to clean out a set of strut tubes that were rusted inside. Worked pretty well I'd say. 

[Captain Obvious]

10 hours ago, One Way said:

I believe these to be the original struts on the car. 

John, The original struts were not "inserts". They were shafts and rubber seals and valves, etc that actually rode against the inside of the tubes bathed in oil that you will pour out.

So if what you're removing are self contained units with the shaft and outer shell and all the oil contained within, then they're not original. The original non-insert styles have already been gutted and replaced with inserts.

[One Way]

Certainly learning as we move along in the resurrection project, thanks to the wealth of Z knowledge on this site.  Just a quick update.  The coil spring has been safely removed with the compressor I purchased.  I have the entire rear control arm assembly pulled out of the car.  I am doing only one side at a time.  The gland nut came off quite nicely.  The LR strut had very little resistance up or down, the boot was torn and brittle, some scoring on the strut shaft, no signs of leakage, but not a whole lot of oil came out after removing the gland nut.  Next obvious challenges.  #1 The swing arm shaft removal.  I have fabricated a pulling tool similar to the one offered at Z Car Depot.  Hopefully it will work. #2  The stub axle retaining nut, bearings, and seal.  The nut is obviously a use only once piece.  What is the best way to remove the flattened portion of that special lock nut without damaging the threaded portion of the shaft?  The one video I watched was a bit unclear but used a DREMEL tool to cut it off and a screwdriver or chisel to remove it.  #3 Removing the rest of the strut.  Will a slide hammer be helpful to yank it out of the tube or should a VISE GRIP work clamping it to the threaded end.  I did not see any retaining rings inside the tube.  My schedule required me to leave the project at this level of incompletion and will not be able to get back at it for several more days.  Thanks again for all the tips and helps.  Hope all are managing through the current worldwide crisis.  I am following common sense precautions but mostly relying on my GOD who is my refuge and strength, a very present help in trouble. PSALM 46:1

[Jeff G 78]

2 hours ago, One Way said:

#2  The stub axle retaining nut, bearings, and seal.  The nut is obviously a use only once piece.  What is the best way to remove the flattened portion of that special lock nut without damaging the threaded portion of the shaft?  The one video I watched was a bit unclear but used a DREMEL tool to cut it off and a screwdriver or chisel to remove it.  #3 Removing the rest of the strut.  Will a slide hammer be helpful to yank it out of the tube or should a VISE GRIP work clamping it to the threaded end.  I did not see any retaining rings inside the tube.  My schedule required me to leave the project at this level of incompletion and will not be able to get back at it for several more days.  Thanks again for all the tips and helps.  Hope all are managing through the current worldwide crisis.  I am following common sense precautions but mostly relying on my GOD who is my refuge and strength, a very present help in trouble. PSALM 46:1

I am in the middle of this same project, so I can offer some advice.  I used a Dremel with a reinforced fiber cut off wheel to remove the peened sections of the nut.  Be VERY careful when you do this.  I made a cut across the nut right at the start of the peened area.  I only went deep enough to get through most of the nut, but not all.  I then used the Dremel to thin out the areas of the nut right at the corners of the "D" on the axle to weaken the nut.  After that, I drove a flat screwdriver into the slot I cut across the nut so I could pry the peened section out.  With the nut thinned at the corners of the "D", the cut section broke away and I was able to grab it and break it off with needle nose pliers.  Don't expect this to be easy or pretty.  Repeat the process for the other side of the nut.  Once the nut has two chunks missing, you can safely use an impact to remove the nut.  Mine came off perfect with no damage to the threads.  Be sure to not cut into the stub axle with the Dremel.  I then used a 5 lb. slide hammer to remove the stub axle.  It took about 20 good strong blows and then slid out with a few more.  Once apart, the nut spun right back onto the axle, verifying the threads were good.

When you reassemble, buy the ZX nuts that don't get peened.  I found them online at Courtesy Nissan for about $15 shipped for the pair.

As for the spindle pin, make sure the wedge bolt is out first and then try the puller.  Mine came out in just a few minutes, but the pin had almost no corrosion.  A slightly bent pin, corroded pin, or one that has damage from the wedge bolt will simply not come out no matter what you try and you will need to Sawzall the pin on either side of the knuckle and take it to a machine shop to be pressed out.  I had one Z that maxed out a 40 ton air over hydraulic press.  Good luck!

A slide hammer should work on a very stuck strut cartridge.  I've had a few give me grief over the years.  One was rusted in and required a lot of brute force to remove.  I mounted it upside down in a vice and put a big washer under the nut and then put a very large open end wrench under the washer and hammered on the wrench.  It tool a long time, but did come apart.  A slide hammer would do the same, but would apply more even pressure.  Soaking the area between the cartridge and housing with a good penetrating oil will help immensly.

Edited March 17, 2020 by Jeff G 78