78 280Z rear strut removal

[Dave WM]

I am surprised you need to remove the peened area, I assumed it was not really over any threads, and it was only there to prevent backing off from vibration, not an impact driver. Have not done this yet but will use the ZX nuts when I do, good tip.

[Jeff G 78]

46 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

I am surprised you need to remove the peened area, I assumed it was not really over any threads, and it was only there to prevent backing off from vibration, not an impact driver. Have not done this yet but will use the ZX nuts when I do, good tip.

I've seen several videos of damaged threads from not removing the peened section of the nut.

BTW, the ZX nut part number is 43262-W1200

[One Way]

Thanks for the great tips.  Not damaging the stub axle threads is critical in this process.  What type of locknut is the ZX version?  Do the ZX stub axles also have the flat spaces?  BLASTER certainly worked on the strut removal.  Had a few minutes before going to work and shocked myself with a few good tugs by hand on the strut rod and it began coming out of the tube. That solved my #3 issue from my list in previous post and the great info in these past several posts should help with issues #1 and #2. Thanks again.  Off to work I go-John-Lugoff, SC.       Jeff G-Your narrative description of the axle nut removal was far superior than the video description I found on YOU TUBE.  Great job in a detailed explanation.  In this case your words were worth a thousand pictures.

[crayZlair]

Some pictures to describe what Jeff G did...............................................

[Zed Head]

The ZX's don't have the flats on the axle.  Here's the nut.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22e06/23-4572

[Jeff G 78]

The ZX nut is a prevailing torque nut which means it is slightly out of round at the small end.  It's a very common design that the entire auto industry uses for critical fasteners.  

[gnosez]

Sometimes you can remove the strut from the shock (as opposed to the other way around) using a hat or large washer, a 2x4, 2 clamps and a hammer.

 

[One Way]

Very familiar with prevailing torque nuts.  I believe that would work on the Z stub axles with the 2 flat sides.  Are the ZX axles fully round at the threaded end or do they have the flat spots?  The torque specs are quite high on the rear axle nuts.  I will have to do a bit more research.  Thanks again for the great tips and pictures.  My struts were the originals rather than the replacement cartridge style.  That is what was confusing me as we tackled this project.  I wrongly assumed the originals were also cartridge style.  I believe I will be purchasing the KYB kit that includes the struts and bellows.  The inside of my tubes look pretty good.  A bit of honing and high quality grease on the cartridges should work out well.  Cleaning, media blasting, priming, and top coating the rear suspension components will be quite the project in itself. Thanks again, John.

[Yarb]

Just finished my suspension rebuild. One product I found for anything frozen/rusted shut is Kroil penetrating oil. It’s an amazing product. Found it on Amazon, a little pricy but well worth it. Out performed anything else I tried.

[Jeff G 78]

9 hours ago, One Way said:

Very familiar with prevailing torque nuts.  I believe that would work on the Z stub axles with the 2 flat sides.  Are the ZX axles fully round at the threaded end or do they have the flat spots?  

I'm not sure if the ZX has the flats as I have never owned or worked on a S130.  The ZX nuts have been used on S30 stub axles for a few decades, so they must work just fine.

[crayZlair]

8 hours ago, Yarb said:

Just finished my suspension rebuild. One product I found for anything frozen/rusted shut is Kroil penetrating oil. It’s an amazing product. Found it on Amazon, a little pricy but well worth it. Out performed anything else I tried.

 

Used to get it at work. Also found that the local NAPA store carries it. It really does work great!

Edited March 19, 2020 by crayZlair
spelling error

[Jeff G 78]

A great penetrating oil alternative is to make your own.  Mix a 50-50 solution of ATF and acetone.  It must be shaken before use as it will separate, but it does work very well.  The downside is that you lose the aerosol can, so getting it into tight spaces is harder.  You can put it into a chemical-safe spray bottle and set the nozzle to jet, but that isn't as good as a staw on an aerosol can.