Engine Won't Start

[DakotaZ]

About 3 weeks ago I backed out of my driveway and my "72 died and wouldn't start. I got her back into my garage and started trouble shooting. It will crank over really good but won't start. I read the other posts on this subject. I replaced the condenser and then the coil, also checked all the connections, still the same problem. I'd really appreciate if someone could give me some advice on what to look for. I'm going to keep trying this coming weekend. If I can't get her running I'm thinking of upgrading the ignition system. What is best, the Crane 700 or 3000. or the petronix upgrade? So come monday if I don't have a car running I plan on ordering one of them.

[Bambikiller240]

Are you getting fuel to the carbs? Disconnect the outlet of the fuel pump, put the hose in a coffee can, and crank the engine. The coffee can should start filling up.

I love my Pertronix Ingnitor. I had a Crane XR700 before it, and it was a pain in the arse to keep in adjustment, and the damn power transistor in it died within two years, and was a bitch to diagnose. "Never Again!"

IMHO, Pertronix or a switch to the ZX Electronic Ingition Distributor are the only ways to go. (Maybe Kyle's GM HEI, but that's a BIG maybe for ME)

[DakotaZ]

Fuel pump is working. took off the hose leading to the carbs and sure enough she pumps. I tried shooting some ether iton the carbs and still nothing. Could something in the carbs just freeze up like that? I do get a spark to the plugs but it seems to die out after I crank it a couple time. Battery still reads around 12 volts.

Does anyone know if Motorsports carries the Petronix system. I see it in VB's catalog but not Motorsport.

[Bambikiller240]

I don't think MSA sells the Pertronix, they sell the Crane XR crap. I got my Pertronix from VB.

PS The Pertronix Ignitor costs less than the Crane XR700, and (for ME) worked, and still works MUCH better!

Maybe the secondary fuel filters at your carbs are plugged up?

[DakotaZ]

Didn't know that there were secondary fuel filters at the carbs. were are they located? Is there a way to trouble shoot the ignition to see if that is working properly

[billcapp]

Have you checked your ballast resistor by chance? Why would you troubleshoot your ignition if you have spark? Are you sure your spark is strong (blue) and the timing is set? Just don't know what else to tell you at the moment.....good luck! By the way I'd like to get the petronix? also.

[billcapp]

One last thing I forgot...battery should be reading ~ 14 volts with no load if it's charged good.

[DakotaZ]

Have checked the balast resister, checked fine. My battery reads over 12v, wouldn't think that it would just die then not start again if it was the battery. Did tear into my Dist. last night though. When I suck on the vacuum line the vacuum advance doesn't move, also when I manual move it and but a finger over the opening it doesn't hold pressure, not sure if that's normal or not. The Breaker plate operates really rough, I cleaned it up and but some oil on it and it moves easier now. When I checked my condenser it didn't read infinity, I had replaced it already, I wonder if I got a bad one or something is messing them up. So I think it is time to upgrade to a pointless system and try to get this back on the road, tired of driving my Minivan in the summer.

[civ104]

I got my Pertronix Ignitor here. Very professional and timely.

http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/index.htm

[Daniel]

You said you replaced the coil but what about the coil and plug wires?Are BOTH chokes working correctly?Points and plugs new and set. Dist cap and rotor.Myself ,I would want the car running before making big changes.The pertronics would be fine since its like a point swap.My thinking is when the "new and improved" doesn't crank it ,now how many problems did you just add to the mix?

[beandip]

your vac advance is shot if you suck on the hose and then block it off with your tonge and it dosent hold vacume. The best advise I can give is to dump the points ignition and go electronic. I went to a zx ignition from a '79 and it is a vast improvement, used the '79 coil also. and dumped the ballest resister so now the ignition is on 12v not 8. Here is some thing to keep in mind, the key switch has a start detent and a run detent. When the key is turned to start the coil gets 12v and when you release the key and it goes to the run detent the coil is receiving 8 v. If the switch is bad sometimes it's the run side and the engine will start but when the switch goes to run side and the contact is shot or dirty the engine dies. Keep this in mind when you have installed the new ignition and if you still have the same problem . Make sure the engine block is grounded to the body also. run a ground wire to the firewall from the engine.