(I think the reason Dave asked is that) sometimes the shift knob can amplify vibrations and make a buzzy noise.

You can check if it's part of the problem by simply unscrewing it and seeing what (if anything) happens to the noise.

Indeed, I had ended up melting some solder into a aftermarket wood shifter I had to alter the weight. odd noise went away. I assume its some kind of resonant frequency (Kenneth), that was happening in my setup. 

Last knob I had that problem with, I filled the inside with RTV silicone. Changed the weight and I think the elastomeric properties of the silicone helped damp the resonance.

My parts list so far is:

BK104WS (maybe without the syncros? There does not appear to be any wear on any of them no missing teeth)

`32354-E9803` - Left hand thread main nut (Transmission Parts Distributors `303795L` Might be NLA from TPD emailed them), I think this can be found online from $$Nissan$$

`32236-e9500` - Counter shaft nut (Transmission Parts Distributors `303796`)

Omega 71411 - Tail shaft bushing ( $27 shipping on a $17 bush )

Need to confirm both:

reverse idler gear, need to confirm part number (32282)? from this diagram I'm looking at... https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71-transmission-reverse-idler-gear-21t-fits-nissan-81-04-nis-10a/

reverse counter gear (32220)? https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71c-fs5w71e-fs5w71g-fs5w71h-transmission-counter-shaft-reverse-gear-fits-81-nissan-cars-trucks-nis-46/

 

@Dave WM @Captain Obvious I'll keep that in mind when I get the gearbox assembled back.

Pinging the gearbox wizard @EuroDat  🧙‍♂️

Alright so here is the weird part... with the gearbox in the vise, when I give it a spin there is like maybe one or two spots where I can feel a bit of resistance, from a visual inspection the bearings look normal.

Because only the bearings within the adapter plate are holding the shafts together I think that there can be play in the system, I can move the main/counter shafts left and right and watch them kinda deflect around.

Also wierd, the main nut that is in the photo is loose, its staked down as you can see, but i can move it around. I think this is supposed to be torqued down to 101-123 ft-lbs per the FSM.

Nothing is screaming at me, "I am the source of the whirring/grinding noise" that I was hearing with the clutch pedal depressed.

I think another challenge will be trying  torque the main nut, i saw someone use a open spanner on the nut, then modify an old drive shaft yoke to use a torque wrench on... might need to look for something that will fit over the splines.. or sacrifice a socket and extend it.

just engage two gears a the same time, that will lock the trans so you can tighten the nut. push two of the shift rings into gear to select two at the same time.

12 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

Alright so here is the weird part... with the gearbox in the vise, when I give it a spin there is like maybe one or two spots where I can feel a bit of resistance, from a visual inspection the bearings look normal.

Because only the bearings within the adapter plate are holding the shafts together I think that there can be play in the system, I can move the main/counter shafts left and right and watch them kinda deflect around.

Also wierd, the main nut that is in the photo is loose, its staked down as you can see, but i can move it around. I think this is supposed to be torqued down to 101-123 ft-lbs per the FSM.

1. It's not easy to test the condition of the bearings and gears with the transmission dismantled like that. It might be a bad bearing causing the hard spots.

2. The shafts tend to wobble around when they are free. The bearings have a clearance specification of C3. You will always see some side ways movement over a shaft more than a foot long and even more with worn bearings.

While you dismantle the adapter plate check the bearings are clamped in place by the retainer plate. There should be no end play.

3. The nut should be tight. Loose is not good.

To tighten the nut I bought a 38mm tube socket and welded an extra length tube on it and a 1/2" drive socket on it. Worked well.

 

 

Edited May 27, 20222 yr by EuroDat

Alright, I got most of the gearbox apart today, I found out that the main shaft nut is actually right hand threaded, not left like I wrote above (good thing I did not order it yet).

Most of the bearings feel OK, with the exception of the counter-shaft rear end bearing, it's a bit rough.

It's a bit hard to find that reverse idler gear (23Teeth), I'm emailing jp-carparts to see if they have anything.

 

I don't know if i need to replace the reverse main gear, it looks discolored, and MOST of the teeth are ok (6-7 have chips)

This "aftermarket" replacement looks to be half the cost of what jp-carparts shows for 32245-E9801... Not sure of the quality (how many factories really made these gears?)

Is throwing money at an OEM part in this case a waste?

https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71c-fs5w71e-fs5w71g-fs5w71h-transmission-5th-reverse-gear-slider-36t-fits-81-92-nissan-cars-trucks-nis-36/

Super confused about the main nut being right hand threaded... this is a close ratio gearbox (borg warner style syncros, no-dust-shield over the drive shaft, one exhaust hanger on the housing).

I destroyed a bit of the nut to get it off, but I was expecting to be able to find a replacement, looks like they are all NLA...

I think I'm the only person that has been inside the gearbox, no random color sealant, only one spot on each nut where they were striked in to keep them from spinning...

The 23t idler can be difficult to locate. I was fortunate a forum member helped me out with a used one

I was able to place an order with jp-carparts for the 23T reverse idler 32282-E9000 ($45) shipping was 37$ so I added some rollerbearings as they are more expensive from within the USA (2x cost).

It's going to take a month as its a built to order part..... good thing i pulled that L28ET from the junkyard.....

@Dave WM@EuroDat

 

I'm most done with the rebuild, I'm trying to measure the endplay 5th gear after torquing the mainshaft nut (RHT). The OEM manual specifies the endplay at 0.30-0.35mm. It seems like I can only achieve this amount of end play if I "loosely" tighten the nut to the shaft. If I actually attempt to tighten down the nut (no torque wrench at the moment, just by feel) the end play goes super tight and out of spec....

Any insight? Shoot for 110ft-lbs, and call it a day regardless of the endplay?