belt molding

[Dave WM]

roger that. I also found this

https://www.staples.com/Stanley-Bostitch-B8-PowerCrown-Heavy-Duty-Stapling-Plier-Fastening-Capacity-45-Sheets-20-lb-Black/product_387516

Don't know if its man enough to use for metal, but maybe if the staple holes lined up it would be fine. I will take a trip down to the staples to check it out in person.

[Dave WM]

https://www.staples.com/Stanley-Bostitch-B8-PowerCrown-Premium-Staples-1-4/product_112235

1/4 deep 6mm wide, maybe the correct size

 

[Dave WM]

ok the parts are ordered, will post up my process with some video later

[Dave WM]

got the rubber in, ordered the B8 stapler and some 1/4 staples (will be delivered too much of a pita to go to a store and see if it will work, not much$$).

Thanks again to Freez74 on the tip, the rubber looks EXACTLY like the OE profile, has the flocking etc...

[Freez74]

Glad I could help!  I hope the stapler works, if not, the 1mm wire does well, just time consuming to push through all those little holes.  I was very pleased with the way sweeps worked and fit, with a slightly fuzzy side against the glass.  Windows roll up and down well, with the rubber in contact with the glass.  You do have to trim the length of the sweep a little, so you have to fit it up to the door and mark the trim strip where to cut it.  I also cut an angle into the rubber at the front of the door, seemed to fit better that way.

[Dave WM]

its going well, I found a piece of music wire in my stash, less that 1/64, as I used a 1/64 drill bit to re drill all the holes. I just hold it in place drill thru the rubber after pre drilling the metal strip and the trim strip and then drop the home made stapes (bent using pliers) into place, I cant find my needle nose to bend the back, but I can tell it going to work fine.

To remove the old staples I used a mototool and a cut of disk, got the back sides off the staples cut off, then the rubber and outside strip just pulled clean, taking the staple with it.

I will wait for the stapler just to see if it works any better before bending them in place. I can pull the homemades out and drill another hole if need be to match the stapler. It will all depend on the thickness of the shoe that bend them in place.

the idea is the stapler does not have to punch thru any metal just has to push thru the rubber and then fold the staple. Now if its a monster maybe it can punch thru the metal as well. The factory obviously did.

Edited April 17, 2020 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

some pics. the replacement has a nice lip that fits over the edge of the trim, preventing any leakage between the rubber and the trim.

[Dave WM]

vide

 

[Dave WM]

Minor problem, maybe it will work itself out. the window tilts in, apparently from the added pressure of the new rubber, enough so that it will miss the forward part of the window sash as its rolled up. With the old rubber its fine, with the rubber off its fine. I am hoping that as the rubber relaxes and is flexed (a slight push at the top of the window is all it takes to get it to line up as it approaches the top) it will not push as hard and allow the window to stay in line without having to guide it.

Edited April 20, 2020 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

maybe I should add new fuzzy stuff to door card

https://zcarsource.com/door-panel-inner-glass-fuzzy

Mine looks ok, but maybe its crushed some....

[Freez74]

That's odd, I didn't have that problem.  I don't even have door panels on the inside, and the windows work fine.  Maybe you need to adjust your tracks or replace the window channels.

[Dave WM]

the old rubber was barely touching it, no pressure at all the new sweeps it very nicely. Tried it early today and it seemed fine (as if the rubber had relaxed some). the windows do have  the pressure roller pushing the  forward part of the window glass inward, I presume to help guide them and keep from rattling. I assume you refer to the window tracks that guide the window regulator up? I will be taking the inner panel off later to look into it. I wanted to grease the regulator  and reseal the vapor barrio anyway. I cant see how to adjust the inward outward tilt of the window, short of adding spacers to the bottom or tops of the guides (if that makes any sense, I have not looked at it yet).