Frame Rail Patch Yes or No?

[Yarb]

Not sure what direction to go. I originally thought to just patch that one area. The rails I bought don’t have the right angle bend that attaches to the floor. These weld directly to the side of the original rail. The issue I have now is if you look at that first pic you’ll see that horizontal tab welded right in the middle of the two bad areas. I can trim the ears off but the cap/rail which ever I decide to use still won’t lay flat. What a mess...I have the necessary equipment available to use. Just need a little guidance so I don’t destroy what’s there now.

 

 

 

 

 

[Dave WM]

tried calling no answer. call me lets talk this over some.

[Dave WM]

is this the video you mentioned in our call

 

[Dave WM]

I can see how the design looks to be welded over the existing or at least using the bottom 1/3 of the existing frame rail to weld too. No provision for direct attachment to the floor.

[Mark Maras]

 If the sides of the rails are still in good shape I'd consider removing the rusted bottom section of the rails and weld the new rails to the original rail sides.

[Yarb]

Yes

[ConVerTT]

Hey Yarb

so the bad dog rails are designed to go over the existing rails.  If you want "replacement" rails you want the Zeddfindings Rails from datsunzparts.com

 

[Yarb]

I started today by cutting off the horizontal brackets on the middle of the rail in order to slide the big dog rail over the existing factory rail. This will give me an idea of what else needs modification. The rails themselves are in good shape. These rails were designed to attach to the sides of the factory rail. I took a couple of pics this afternoon while I was test fitting the rail. The rails are notched in various areas to match the floor pan. Right off I found An area that requires another notch cut out to clear a factory weld on the current rail. Once that’s done I’ll test fit  the rail again. 

[Dave WM]

I assume you are staying in contact (with pics above) with the supplier just to make sure everything looks right. It looks like the cut out (for the floor pan) is long enough from the pic, just too far aft for the start and finish points. Not that that's a big deal just wondering.

[Yarb]

I think If you look at your forward frame rail you will see that the steel shrinks in size a bit and turns towards the strut rod bushing. If my piece is cut correctly that’s as far as it goes where it can be welded to a flat surface. I agree I should not have to notch anything. Where it’s marked is the base of the origin rail causing it to teeter totter for and aft.

Also, I know you probably can’t see it from the pic but if I move it either direction the current notch will ride up on another spot weld.

Edited April 29, 2020 by Yarb

[Yarb]

Sent some pics to The supplier. I wonder if the frame rails differed between model years. Also if you look at the other side of the frame rail next to the strut rod you'll see it's flat all the way up to the firewall area where you could weld it if you moved the rail forward. 

[traveler]

I am getting ready to patch a couple spots on both rails. My intent is to cut out the rusty pieces, and then use the cut out pieces as a template to cut out Patch panels with 16 ga. thickness, as per the factory metal gauge size I am being told.. 

For peace of mind, I will have a mobile welder come over and weld them properly as it's a structural member.

Easy way to check the rails is with a screwdriver and a hammer.  if you are tapping along down the side and you hear a crunch, you just found more work to do. 🙂

Eastwood sells that product to spray inside the rails, which should stop any further rust.

 

So, what am I missing?

 

Regards,

 

~Joe

 

Edited July 23, 2021 by traveler