I have been using this site as a resource for a few weeks now, I figure I would introduce myself. I just picked up this 1978 280Z from the original owner. I have ALL of the original paperwork that went with the car when it was new. He let his grandson borrow it for a few years back in 2006 and he trashed it. The owner started a restoration on it and lost interest so he sold it to me with all of the new parts and pieces to finish the job.

It had sat for about 5 years with bad gas. I had the gas tank washed and replaced the injectors and fuel filter. After that and a minor tune up, she is running like new! The sanding was about 75% complete so I just started to finish that today. I am filling the small holes used to mount the dealer installed siding. I am still on the fence whether or not to paint it the original color (306 Silver) or do a custom color. Only other modification I want to do it a 240Z bumper conversion but I will keep the original parts.

So far all of my questions have been answered by other threads. Can't wait til she is ready to cruise!

Welcome to the forum. All the paper work and you are the second owner?  That's quite the find you have there, painting it the original silver will not only preserve it's originality but also it's resale value for some time in the distant future.  The change over to 240 bumpers is pretty easy now and reversible. I'm sure you will enjoy it for decades to come but it's always worth considering the next owner.  That is a real gem.

What are you're plans, any pics of the engine bay or suspension you can post?

 

Dito with the welcome. Looks like a really nice find.

My advice on the bumper swap. Be carefull and take your time removing the rear bumper gap shield. It is spot welded to the body and easy to destroy while removing it. If you decide later to restore it to original, you will need it. Mine is stored away for one of those "you never know" moments.

280Z's aren't the collectors items the 240Z's are, but as time goes on you never know. The collectability factor will depend on its originality.

 

 

9 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Welcome to the forum. All the paper work and you are the second owner?  That's quite the find you have there, painting it the original silver will not only preserve it's originality but also it's resale value for some time in the distant future.  The change over to 240 bumpers is pretty easy now and reversible. I'm sure you will enjoy it for decades to come but it's always worth considering the next owner.  That is a real gem.

What are you're plans, any pics of the engine bay or suspension you can post?

 

I will get some photos of the engine bay and suspension and post it up this week. I have ordered some leather seat covers from ridies.com. I have all of the parts to replace the carpet, gaskets, weather stripping, and various other odds and ends. I don't know how much paint color will affect the value. That is a question I have tried to search on a few times. My thought process is that if I was doing a 100% original restore, it would make sense to keep the color original too. But little things detract from the originality, such as, after market antenna (original one broke), honda windshield wiper motor, aftermarket seat covers, the engine is a reman that was put in in 2007, the dash is destroyed by the sun (planning to attempt a restore on that, if not, I will replace). It also has the dealer installed sunroof, which can be a detraction for collectors, from what I have been reading.

I am interested in the community's thoughts on it the paint color dilemma. 

I have seen that the wheels and caps are fairly rare, so I will probably keep those on. The caps are off in the photos I posted. 

8 hours ago, EuroDat said:

My advice on the bumper swap. Be careful and take your time removing the rear bumper gap shield. It is spot welded to the body and easy to destroy while removing it. If you decide later to restore it to original, you will need it. Mine is stored away for one of those "you never know" moments.

Good point, any tips on a clean removal would be welcome! Thanks guys!

3 hours ago, AirForce280Z said:

I have seen that the wheels and caps are fairly rare, so I will probably keep those on. The caps are off in the photos I posted. 

Good to excellent condition examples of those wheels are quite rare and will involve serious coin to knowledgeable sellers and buyers. Good to excellent condition centercaps are even rarer. Keep them! Consider finding a set of caps that will fit for daily use and preserve your originals for special occasions.

Back in March of 2018 I posted this regarding these wheels (although I have a set of the original caps, the caps shown below are not correct for the wheel but I like the fit of them more):

 

"Being a "4 spoke 'old school' fool" for wheels----

I had been intrigued for some time by this statement from Eric Neyerlin on his website: (www.zparts.com)

"This wheel (pn 40303-N3200) is the only OEM wheel that Nissan specifically produced for the 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z (S30) models world wide.  Nissan parts catalog shows a 4/73 production date for this design.  Though common to most S30 models sold in Australia, Canada? and Europe this wheel was not offered stock on any US imported Z  cars except for one year on the 1977 Black Pearl special edition model.

Now, 46 years after the 240Z models were first introduction, this rare factory wheel is increasingly regarded as the the only true, period correct, vintage factory aluminum wheel to put on a meticulously restored S30 model, apart from original, model year correct, steel wheels and hub caps common to US models."

Well---OK---

I'm in-------

This is one of the set of 6 that I recently purchased.

All of the wheels are in truly incredible condition, extremely clean inside and out and 4 of them are polished very well.

I had a NOS set of center caps on hand from years ago that were destined for use on a set of "iron cross" wheels I owned at the time.

The caps fit perfectly on these wheels and I've always liked the factory Nissan "acorn" style lug nuts with the captured washer. A substantial nut with positive fitment between the wheel and the lug.

If the stated original production date of 4/73 is correct, then it is entirely conceivable that my 6/73 240Z could correctly have worn these in that same year.

As period correct as I can get for this car and I don't have to risk losing my hubcaps-----been there and done that."

 

 

And also----here is an excerpt from www.zhome.com :

Pictured below: A Japanese dealer sales flyer that describes the optional aluminum road wheel, that was available on the 1978 Z. Followed by a Japanese to English translation.
Contributed by: Andrew Streckfuss, IZCC #6438. .

Translation:
Although Z did not attain its respectable status only by
the equipment, no other automobile is furnished as
complete as Z.

* Michelin tire and aluminum wheel

Z is not the type of automobile to speed like a maniac; while it normally travels gently and straightforward, it has the ability to quickly dodge any unexpected change in a situation - for example, when a child suddenly jumps on to a street. This swift footwork, which guarantees Z's safety, is, of course, due to the excellent balance and superiority of its total facility including ideal and sharp sterling features. Yet, in order to perfectly exhibit such distinguished performance security, Z's basis is entirely guarded with radial tires. Especially, Z-T employs the Michelin steel radial tires and 5 1/2 J-14 aluminum wheel. (Z-L adopts 195/70HR-14 steel, and Z wears 175SR14 steel.)
- - - End Translation - -

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Zup said:

Good to excellent condition examples of those wheels are quite rare and will involve serious coin to knowledgeable sellers and buyers. Good to excellent condition centercaps are even rarer. Keep them! Consider finding a set of caps that will fit for daily use and preserve your originals for special occasions.

Excellent info and a great read. I will clean and polish those wheels to really see what kind of condition they are in. I can't find anything online to see what kind of value they have. I can't really seem to find any for sale. 

6 hours ago, AirForce280Z said:

I can't really seem to find any for sale. 

You won't easily find complete sets of them. That is part of why they are expensive when you do.

Eric Neyerlin's site is the only place I have seen them listed and offered for sale and they are a bit pricey at a grand plus shipping.

http://zparts.com/index.php/shop/wheel-showcase-1/

Enough about the wheels------------

Regarding your bumper conversion,

Eurodat provided sage advice in his reply. Keep all the parts and use care as they are removed.

You might also reach out to s30driver here on the forums. Jim recently completed the conversion on a very nice 280z and can give you much information on the finer points of the procedure and provide cautions about what difficulties to expect.

Best of luck in your endeavors!

13 hours ago, AirForce280Z said:

But little things detract from the originality, such as, after market antenna (original one broke), honda windshield wiper motor, aftermarket seat covers, the engine is a reman that was put in in 2007, the dash is destroyed by the sun (planning to attempt a restore on that, if not, I will replace). It also has the dealer installed sunroof, which can be a detraction for collectors, from what I have been reading.

Gotcha, I didn't see the sun roof and other mods, as long as the paint job is done well and isn't too outrageous it shouldn't affect the valve much at all.

18 hours ago, AirForce280Z said:

Good point, any tips on a clean removal would be welcome! Thanks guys!

The way I removed mine. First remove bumper. I then drilled out the spotwelds on the four supports with a spotweld cutter. That made it possible to lift up the shield enough, it will deform a little and the drill out all the spotwelds along the top lip.

You can see the holes I drilled in mine in the photos above.

The valance panal has dimples (round sections that sticks out about 1 mm) where each spotweld is located. You will need to do some panel work to remove them or leave them, but they will be visable even with a 240Z bumper. I see if I have a photo of what I mean.

Edited May 4, 20204 yr by EuroDat
Photo

4 hours ago, EuroDat said:

The way I removed mine. First remove bumper. I then drilled out the spotwelds on the four supports with a spotweld cutter. That made it possible to lift up the shield enough, it will deform a little and the drill out all the spotwelds along the top lip.

You can see the holes I drilled in mine in the photos above.

The valance panal has dimples (round sections that sticks out about 1 mm) where each spotweld is located. You will need to do some panel work to remove them or leave them, but they will be visable even with a 240Z bumper. I see if I have a photo of what I mean.

Thank you for this info! I will make it my project this weekend since I will be finishing up my rough sanding this weekend too. Thank you for the photo! It helps a ton.

Adding a couple photos of the engine bay and the wheel condition, for those interested.