Gas Tank restore and POR15

[Dadsun]

I'm about to tackle the dropping and cleaning of my gas tank on my 1973 240z. I've read through this lengthy thread from 2005.   

For those of you who have done this, on the inside of the tank, is this kit all that is really required?:  POR15 Fuel Tank Repair Kit  FYI, I have called numerous radiator shops in my area, and none of them do gas tank work. So, I'm stuck with full DIY on this.

Also, while I'm doing the work, what else makes sense to do on this 47 year old been-mostly-sitting-for-20-years car?  Go ahead and replace the sending unit, for example?  Vapor tank elimination? That was something I'd not planned to do.

Thanks.

 

[grannyknot]

I've done the POR15 gas tank kit a couple times now, just follow the instructions to a T. Clean as you can it  then a hair dryer running through the tank for an hour until you are sure the inside of the tank is dry.

I had so much left over that I took a brush and gave the outside of the tank a good coat too.

Edited May 7, 2020 by grannyknot

[siteunseen]

A leaf blower in the big hole works good also.

You can still get, or at least 3 years ago, a new sending unit from your local dealership. I have p/n and you definitely need that when you call them. My guy usually gets parts the next morning.

I found a helpful thread or whatever from woodworkerb.com

http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/

[Jeff Berk]

I did the drop, clean and coat thing a couple of years ago. The product I used was:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/KCO-53000

It seems to of worked out OK. I had dump some bolts in the tank and rolled it around to break up any loose rust. I used a shop vac to dry it out.

[gwri8]

Yep, don't cut any corners when doing the POR 15 and it will do fine.  Also be sure to let it cure about a week like in the instructions.  Cleaning the tank before is essential. Depending on condition, some people use Muriatic acid (diluted) and then Phosphoric acid. Muratic acid tends to flash rust almost immediately so be sure to neutralize after with baking soda if you do.  I can't think of any advantage of removing the vapor tank.  If the sending unit is non functional, replace it, otherwise just clean it up by soaking it in CLR.

[grannyknot]

22 minutes ago, Jeff Berk said:

I used a shop vac to dry it out.

That's a good idea.

[Dadsun]

Thanks. I read that woodworkerb.com article last week, then couldn't find it again. I like his tip on the homemade "wrench" for removing the sending unit.

While I'm doing this, have any of you found a good method of cleaning out the metal fuel lines? I have no leaks, but I'm sure they've got some build up. Some threads mentioned a varnish build up over time. 

[grannyknot]

I pushed a length of string trimmer line through the metal gas line with a length of kitchen cord taped to it, then put aside the trimmer line and tie a piece of rag onto the end of the cord, spray the rag down with brake cleaner and pull it through, you won't believe what comes out.  If the cord breaks and the rag gets stuck heat the gas line from outside until the rag burns up and blow the ashes out with compressed air then start over, you will want to do it a couple of times.

This is all just a feel good exercise but it does clean some crap out.

[Dadsun]

I was thinking of spraying break cleaner from the engine bay on down to the back end the length of the metal line while plugging the other end to let it sit in there. Then blast it out with air compressor, rinse, repeat. I may try your method but with a small pipe brush.

[siteunseen]

I used a .22 caliber wire barrel brush from my gun cleaning kit. 5/16" on my 280. Worked good for me but was nerve wracking the way I tied it with picture hanging twisted wire.

Maybe I wouldn't do it again on second thought.

[Av8ferg]

I went through this about a year ago. I was going to do it myself but I changed my mind and had it done professionally after meeting a guy who was doing it himself.and I’m glad I did. This guy put BB’s in the tank to break up the rust and could never get them all out: he has to cut the tank open to get them out and used that hole to put the POR in. It looked like a mess and environmental disaster. I took it to a shop that did work on Big rigs in Memphis. They had a hot tank and did an acid bath and then treated the inside with a red coating. He said it would last longer than anything on the market. The tank came looking brand new inside and out. Total cost was $320. Pricey but I wanted it done right and put it behind me. Wish I took before pics to show you how good of a job they did.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dadsun]

Very nice. I am going to try some radiator shops in Natchez. Had no luck in Baton Rouge area. Memphis is about 6 hour drive for me. What shop is it? I am mainly looking for a price for them to do the inside.