Trying to remember I do believe the heater hose grommets are the same as the rear panel fuel vent line hose?

Regarding the odd fuel hose:

I think I used some cloth-covered hose (common on some German cars) and something like this (not this one specifically) to get that U-bend:

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0421896

Make sure all replaced hoses if not OEM are rated for fuel. 

I also looked at universal molded fuel line by RetroMotion Innovations but didn't go that route.

https://www.retromotioninnovations.com/products/3-8universalmolded

you just cut out whatever part you need and splice a standard fuel line to it.

Also, If you need just plain round grommets you can go to something like ACE Hardware. Just measure the hole before you go.

Turns out I have a great local source for the larger braided fuel hoses.

Just under an hour away there is a heavy duty parts and machine shop in Natchez, MS, called Kaiser's. They do a lot of big tractor work, so they have big spools of hydraulic and fuel rated rated hoses. If you have a place near you that does similar work, check them out. I got the two larger vent hoses (5/8" and 3/4") there.

HELP!

So, I finished the tank restore and reinstallation. Replaced fuel hoses everywhere except the hard lines, which I cleaned out as best I could. And even took off the fuel rail and cleaned. It's all back on and no leaks except now....

I've got gas pouring out of the front carb's air intake on the air filter housing. See pic. Everywhere else is bone dry. I have not fired it up yet, thankfully. Just testing for leaks with the electric fuel pump pushing. 

 

That's sound like you have a float needle stuck off the seat.  That can often be fixed by tapping on the float bowl, believe it or not. Give it some sharp raps with a solid object to vibrate the float and needle valve.  When the bowl goes dry the float ends up in a spot it doesn't normally see, hanging down in the bowl.  It gets stuck.

I even found a video, I'm sure that there are more.  It's a common problem.  This guy talks too much, you can go directly to 1:30 to see the precision method in action.  The concept is the same for any carb with floats and needle valves.

 

Thanks. That seems to have helped. And I fired her up.  

Stuck float makes sense. It's been sitting for about 2.5 weeks with the fuel rails detached. 

 

Gas restore completed and ran much better today! Onward to suspension, and then my paltech round top carbs, pertronix ignition upgrade, interior restore, etc. 

Side note: the electric fuel pump runs all of the time; not just at cranking. Anyone wired this to only run at startup? I thought about adding a switch that lets me cut it off after starting. It's noticably loud through the floor of the hatch area. 

Another note is that the 15-30 second cold cranking process seems to have gone away. 

I suspect the vapor system leaks were causing the fuel to slowly drain from the rails and lines that run into the carbs, but not sure.