5 Speed Transmission inspection and possible rebuild.

[Av8ferg]

I finally picked up that 1982 280zx transmission and differential that I purchased a while back.

Fist impression is that it looks rough on the outside.

I wanted to start a thread so I can get the guidance and advice as I analyze and open this up for inspection.

Thy last time I looked inside a manual transmission was 1980 when my dad pulled the tranny out of our 1974 Corolla to repair it. I was 10 then and was the hand me the tool, hold this flashlight helper.

So just like my methodology I had with the engine rebuild, I don’t want to put an Unknown quantity in the car. Just like I found the protruding valve seat on my P79 head, I’d prefer to get ahead of possible problems. I want to at least inspect the inside and determine if it requires an replacement parts. I’m in no rush. The car should be in my new garage in about 5 weeks and as soon as it get here I’m going to pull the old engine and drive train. I’m hoping to get it off to body work then.

So. I’m guessing some will say it’s probably good so don’t waste time opening it up and going through all that extra work. First this is a labor of love. Secondly, I want to to be a reliable tranny that I don’t have to go back and fix later. Finally, it’s an opportunity to learn and expand my knowledge and skill.

With that all said, I’m hoping you all can guide me through the pitfalls and help me see the blind spots as I pull this thing apart. Here are the pics.

 

 

 

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[zKars]

People keep bringing me 5 speeds with chucks of bearing cage on the magnetic drain plug. Been the mid plate countershaft bearing in every case so far. At the very least I’d replace the bearings. Wish I was closer.

 

Aren’t the balls supposed to be inside the races? Not always I guess.

The good news is that the cage pieces haven’t reaped havoc with the rest of the rotating parts in any of the examples so far....

Edited May 11, 2020 by zKars

[siteunseen]

I used those rubber caps and oven cleaning foam, hot water pressure wash to clean mine. Then carried it to a friend who has a transmission shop. He opened it up replaced the seals and said it looked fine. I put it in then filled with Redline MT90. Works great for my jaunts around here.

 

[Zed Head]

Odd that the front case has a different tone than the back one.  It might have already been opened at least once.  Who knows, it might have had a "dirty" rebuild.  Check the bearings and synchros they might already be newish.  It's pretty easy to split the cases and pull the gear cluster out without special tools.

[Av8ferg]

Thanks guys. ZH, I noticed the same thing regarding color. I also noticed some black RTV where the bell hosing connects to the case so someone might have been inside before. When I get it open I’ll take a bunch of pics and a video and go from there.

Of note. This salvage yard has been sold. The owner is attempting to crush all the cars buy 1 Sep for scrap metal. He said rate not is about $4 per 100 lbs. He’s got seven L-28 engines and six 5 speed transmissions in those cars . What a waste. I might try and make a deal with him. At $4 per 100 lbs that puts a Z bringing him about $115. I wish I had a place to put one of those Z’s and get some of the transmissions and engines.

 

 

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[EuroDat]

3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Odd that the front case has a different tone than the back one.  It might have already been opened at least once.  Who knows, it might have had a "dirty" rebuild.  Check the bearings and synchros they might already be newish.  It's pretty easy to split the cases and pull the gear cluster out without special tools.

I notice the difference in tone as well. Funny, I have an 82 close ratio and it has the same tones in the casting. It looks like they made the castings in two different factories, if that was possible.

+1 for @siteunseen cleaning method and then open it up and have a look. You will be just guessing untill you crack it open and have a gander.

[Av8ferg]

I started tearing apart this transmission, I have never done this before so I’m in uncharted waters.  The FSM is vague and poorly discusses the tear down procedures so I’m trying to figure out why the rear casing is not coming apart.  

Take a peak at the video I posted and let me know if you see something I missed.  

 

[Av8ferg]

Well, I figured it out. The transmission must be in neutral which I already knew but I must have moved it accidentally back into gear
. It must be in neutral so you can rotate the portion where the actual stick inserts. Once rotated you can pull the casing right off. Looks pretty clean inside this thing.


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[Zed Head]

@Mark Maras and @EuroDat and @zKars probably know for sure.  I can't remember what might be holding the back half on.  I'm pretty sure though that you can get the front half off without removing the back half.  If you wanted to split that case off of the adapter plate while you're waiting.

It might be that you need to rotate the shift lever to get the reverse lockout mechanism free on the back case.  That was the "spring thing' that you removed.  Look inside the hole and you might see what's getting hung up.

[Zed Head]

Timing...

Be careful with the oil gutter on the other side.  It gets bent often.

[EuroDat]

4 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:

Well, I figured it out. The transmission must be in neutral which I already knew but I must have moved it accidentally back into gear
. It must be in neutral so you can rotate the portion where the actual stick inserts. Once rotated you can pull the casing right off. Looks pretty clean inside this thing.


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I just received a notification and while watching the video see you already found the reason while.

The striking rod needs to move from left to right after the case comes away from the adaptor plate. Once you remove the reverse check lock out "thingy on the side" it will allow you to move the striking rod past the selectors and pul, the extension housing off. I generally use a large philips head screwdriver in the shifter to giggle it around past yhe 5th/Reverse position and them it will come free.

Btw: The manual says to use a hammer to tap it off. What they mean is break it loose from the adaptor plate and extension house bearing.

[Av8ferg]

Thanks guys. To an untrained eye this transmission internals looks nice. I suspect this may have be rebuilt before. It’s a clean as one could imagine for a car with 192k miles. Give aways were the gasket sealant, black paint rear housing and gasket under the front cover. It doesn’t look OE but again this is a guess.
I need to get the front and rear case off for cleaning on the auto shop on base and get it back together before I forget where all these parts go.
I may need help on that anyway.

Here’s a video of the internals.

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