Is there grease inside?  Supposedly they are filled with super duper grease designed specifically for the bearing.  The purpose is to keep them lubricated when they are used in areas that can't be reached for regular maintenance.

The bearings are C3 tolerance which is loose, to allow crud to slip out, as I understand things.  but, this reference says it's to allow expansion.  Trivia...

https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/article/why-are-your-bearings-c3

More stuff.  I'm learning.

https://www.skf.com/cn/en/products/bearings-units-housings/principles/general-bearing-knowledge/bearing-basics/internal-clearance/index.html

Edited May 25, 20204 yr by Zed Head

Bearing specs: C3 is a clearance spec, not a tolerance. The C3 clearance is regarded as the standard general use clearance and with accomidate most thermal expansion and load conditions under moderate rotation speeds.

The oil gutter is used in all the 71B series transmissions. Still available through nissan, just google the part number in my list "nissan 32137-E9000" and yoh will find plenty of suppliers. Courtesy has them for $2.67ea

https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-gutter-oil-32137e9000

The bearing in the adapter plate shouldn't has seals. I would remove the seals and flush the bearing with a degreaser and then fresh oil.

Thanks Chas.  Yes, I chose the wrong word.  Lazy on my part.

But, the SKF guide says that C3 clearance is greater than normal.  So, loose.  Who knows, maybe a rebuilder should drop the clearance back to normal, since the internal bearings seem to fail often.  Maybe they're too loose.

https://www.skf.com/cn/en/products/bearings-units-housings/principles/general-bearing-knowledge/bearing-basics/internal-clearance/index.html

The little gutter is pretty delicate, when you get the new replacement you have to fold up the end cap that seals one side, the metal used is much softer from what was installed in mine, it would not take a lot to bend it out of shape or mess it up in general, just install it last just before you are ready to close up the trans (but don't forget it of course) this will help keep it safe from handling damage. I would buy 2 just to be safe incase you dork one some how in the process. One other word of caution, I cant say this for sure but there maybe an early ZX 5 speed that did not use the CCW tightening nut on the rear of the main shaft, if you have one that tighten CW you want to preserve it as much as possible as I think they are hard to source. I presume Nissan changed from that due to the self loosening tendency of a reg nut.

On 5/25/2020 at 10:25 PM, Dave WM said:

The little gutter is pretty delicate, when you get the new replacement you have to fold up the end cap that seals one side, the metal used is much softer from what was installed in mine, it would not take a lot to bend it out of shape or mess it up in general, just install it last just before you are ready to close up the trans (but don't forget it of course) this will help keep it safe from handling damage. I would buy 2 just to be safe incase you dork one some how in the process. One other word of caution, I cant say this for sure but there maybe an early ZX 5 speed that did not use the CCW tightening nut on the rear of the main shaft, if you have one that tighten CW you want to preserve it as much as possible as I think they are hard to source. I presume Nissan changed from that due to the self loosening tendency of a reg nut.

Zed head has a good idea. Buying two oil gutter would be wise. They are delicate and easy to damage.

I use to think the main shaft nut was ccw on all the close ratio 71b transmissions, but they seem to have a cw nut in the early close ratios up to June 1980.

Chas

Edited May 28, 20204 yr by EuroDat

I've had bearing come with those seals. Absolutely remove the seal. Just pick them out, they are not held in tightly at all. 

I’m really not sure what you guys are referring to with the sealant? Are you talking about the black sealant around the adaptor plate? See my pics.
Speaking of this, what do you use between the adaptor plates and the rest casing and bell housing? Those must me something that seals this mating surfaces.
Copy on the gutter. Will buy 2. Looks like the guy who rebuilt this tranny didn’t put one back in.




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in the video one of the bearings had a seal on one side, there should be no seals there, just the open ball bearing and cages. Talking about the bearings in the adapter plate.

you can see it clearly in that last pic of the post above, the bearing has a black plastic seal see just behind the small gear on the counter shaft. Unless that is an optical effect. you need to see if the balls and the cage can be seen from the same angle.

Edited May 25, 20204 yr by Dave WM

That other stuff you have circled, yes it looks like someone has been in there, and used a tad too much sealant. If I was doing another I would be tempted to use one of the anaerobic types vs the silicone types. Either way avoid using too much. I don't think it will really cause any issues unless it went on real thick and was allowed to setup too long, creating some end play issues with everything buttoned up. Just a thin coat is all that is needed. See the circled in yellow, that is the seal I am talking about

Edited May 26, 20204 yr by Dave WM

OK thank you for the information about that seal Dave. I looked at it closely it looks like that rubber is actually part of the bearing it says NSK made in Japan. I’m not sure if I should just leave it as is. Also I just had the case professionally cleaned. The guy said the bushing at the back of the transmission should be replaced and that it has gouges in it. See attached pictures what do you think.

 

 

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Yes, remove the rubber seals from the bearing. You can pop them out with a small screwdriver. Once it is out of the bearing you can grab it with pointy nosed pliers and twist it back and forth until it breaks and them pull it out.

The rear yoke bearing (sleeve) doesn't look that good. You can check the play by insert the propeller shaft yoke and check clearance with a feeler guage.

You can buy them. See my list for the part number. Nissan never did sell them. You had to buy the complete rear extension housing.

yes on the bush, but get the correct one, Eurodat has the pn in his list, its not the cheap short one that all the shops sell.

The rubber should be removed. Will it work with it installed, yes, is it supposed to be there, no. there is nothing to seal between the two sides

Thanks.  I found the Omega Bushing for $19.  How do you remove the old one and reinstall the new one?  Looks like a very tight fit.  Is this something that needs to be taken to a shop to have pressed in or an I tap it in? 
 

I’ll start poking around that bearing to see it that black casing comes off. May even video it to show you all because to my eye this looks likes it’s part of the bearing assembly,  it I’m trusting you all.  Seems like a JV move for a guy to leave it in there.  All my parts are in order thanks to EuroDat’s parts list.