5 Speed Transmission inspection and possible rebuild.

[Zed Head]

Underneath the plastic seal is a bearing just like these, from your video, with the retainer wrapped around the balls in the races.  You can actually get those exact bearings in a sealed form if you wanted them.  Some people use a sealed bearing for the countershaft bearing.  Maybe it keeps it quieter.

I'm not so sure it's a huge deal, really.  There are holes in the adapter plate, at the bottom, I think that allow oil flow.  The bearing is loaded with grease before they seal it.  But if you peel the seal out you won't hurt anything.
 

 

[Av8ferg]

Okay, I just pulled out 1/2 of that bearing seal.  It was made of metal.  I hope I haven’t caused any damage, by doing this.  See my video below.  
 

 

 

[Dave WM]

you did not hurt anything the cage is still there, that is what keeps the balls in the race.

[Zed Head]

Yikes, that's a scary video.  I'll bet you were sweating, maybe still are, wondering about pulling it out.  But, it's just metal a seal instead of plastic.  

It looks like it might actually be more of a metal shield to keep crap out.  I didn't se any grease, so pulling it will give more lubrication.  Can you see the other side?  The sealed bearings are sealed on both sides.

As Dave said though, the retainer and races hold the bearings in place.  The retainer, the metal piece with the bumps in it, is actually also a spacer, keeping the balls separate so that the inner race stays centered and the balls can't get torqued out.  Without that piece the balls all end up on one side with a big gap on the other.

[Dave WM]

1 hour ago, Av8ferg said:

Thanks.  I found the Omega Bushing for $19.  How do you remove the old one and reinstall the new one?  Looks like a very tight fit.  Is this something that needs to be taken to a shop to have pressed in or an I tap it in? 
 

I’ll start poking around that bearing to see it that black casing comes off. May even video it to show you all because to my eye this looks likes it’s part of the bearing assembly,  it I’m trusting you all.  Seems like a JV move for a guy to leave it in there.  All my parts are in order thanks to EuroDat’s parts list. 

yes its a press fit, you need to find a socket that fits so it clears the housing but impact on the bush. then you just hammer it out. Once its out you can press in the new bush in. It helps to heat up the alum housing (I used propane, don't go crazy, just evenly heat it up some on the tail) put the bush in the freezer for an hour before time to install, it will go in with some light taps as it is shrunken, and the alum is expanded. You need to pay attention to the oil feed hole that is cast into the housing so it aligns with the hole in the bush.

one more thing when doing the heat/freeze trick, you have to work with some sense of urgency to take advantage of the heat/cold, as the bush will quickly heat up and the alum will quickly cool off once you start the process. just make sure that hole stays lined up.

 

Edited May 26, 2020 by Dave WM

[Zed Head]

p.s. if you can find the number on that bearing you might be able to look it up to see what, exactly, it is.  I'm sure it's fine, but just curious.  The number's probably engraved on the side of the outer race.

Here's a link to browse the different types of bearings.  There's a bunch for all kinds of different applications.

Looks like Dave and Chas were right, best to have good lubricant flow through yours.  It's not what I thought it was.

https://www.vxb.com/Sealed-Ball-Bearing-s/198.htm?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=198&show=15&page=2 

2nd edit - and just to fill out the bearing saga, a page showing a "rubber molded to a steel plate" seal

https://www.grainger.com/product/35JC49?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkqvpqK_S6QIVUtbACh2EvQbAEAQYASABEgK_dPD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIkqvpqK_S6QIVUtbACh2EvQbAEAQYASABEgK_dPD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!402184946084!!!g!439044420138!

Edited May 26, 2020 by Zed Head

[Av8ferg]

Yes, I was sweating it. “First do no harm”. May have violated that. Yes there is another one on the opposite side. I need to account for the debris. I’ll hit it with compressed air before reassembly.
Thanks all for walking through this tranny pseudo fiasco.


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[siteunseen]

I got in a tranny fiasco on Bourbon Street a few years ago. I've never been in a fight but that was the closest so far. They are mean.

[EuroDat]

23 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

Thanks.  I found the Omega Bushing for $19.  How do you remove the old one and reinstall the new one?  Looks like a very tight fit.  Is this something that needs to be taken to a shop to have pressed in or an I tap it in? 
 

All my parts are in order thanks to EuroDat’s parts list. 

Hi John,

I was looking at my parts list and see I uploaded an old one. Back in 2012 I realised I forgot the input shaft seal. You should replace it as well.

P/N: 32114-Y4000.  Lip-Seal  30/45x8mm   (NOK: AH1679G)

I updated the list and clean it up a bit. It's also uploaded in the technical articles section.

Tranny_Rebuild_Partslist-2020.pdf

[Av8ferg]

Okay I ordered the kit from Zcardepot, it came it’s the front and rear seals and the front cover gasket.

https://zcardepot.com/products/transmission-rebuild-repair-kit-240z-260z-280z-zx?_pos=3&_sid=ed42e9b87&_ss=r

Back to the bearing topic. So you all saw I was able to get one side of that bearing cover off. The other side doesn’t look possible. It’s too deep and inaccessible. My question is will it be okay to not remove the other side. Any potential problems if I just leave it there?







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[Dave WM]

with as much angst it gave you on the other side I would say leave it, you have good lube from the one side and if ZH is correct there are holes for the oil to flow thru the adapter plate already. I can see how getting at that one and having to tear it out could be dicey. I had assumed it was a rubber seal which would be much easier to pull with a hooked pick. Or get a good stiff belt of whiskey and go for it :)

[Zed Head]

Here's a good read about doing transmission work.  It also shows a sealed bearing used on a 71C transmission.  Looks like it came from Nissan that way, the guy bought a brand new 240SX 5 speed.  It's the front main shaft bearing though, which wouldn't see much fluid splash probably.

He has some good tips for reassembling.  Put the transmission in gear before reassembling otherwise you can get two gears engaged at one time as the shift rods are accidentally moved.  This is where I learned about Hylomar Blue also.  A non-setting sealant.

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm