June 3, 20204 yr Author comment_600727 We call that "tuition" around here. The cost of learning... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64094-crank-snout-turning-nut/?&page=2#findComment-600727 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 7, 20204 yr Author comment_600863 @Captain Obvious So I received the new tool. Short story is it won't work! The internal Id they said was much closer than it is. Also the internal shape is all wrong. So back it will go It would have been nice if it had worked because it will accept a degree wheel under the knurled nut So I need a device with an Id like this I believe that 1.373" with a key way that .205" wide As an aside the LD28 crank sitting on another bench has the same snout OD. So this tool should work on pretty much everything L series Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64094-crank-snout-turning-nut/?&page=2#findComment-600863 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 8, 20204 yr comment_600868 I get 1.378 OD off that mic (not 1.373). So it looks like that crank snout is 35mm. So the one you ordered from Summit looks like aluminum? That would be easier for me to work with. Wouldn't last as long, but certainly easier to produce. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64094-crank-snout-turning-nut/?&page=2#findComment-600868 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 8, 20204 yr Author comment_600895 I am not sure aluminum will be strong enough. Pretty sure it's steel because it weighs a couple of pounds Expound on your mic interpretation I figured it a 1-2" mic so by default 1.something little hashes put it 1.3... approximately 3/4 makes it 1.37 Then 3 marks past zero makes it 1.373, correct? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64094-crank-snout-turning-nut/?&page=2#findComment-600895 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 9, 20204 yr comment_600913 OK. I thought it might be aluminum. I know I found a bunch of aluminum ones when I was searching around, but wasn't sure if that's what you had. As for the micrometer... You got most of it right. It's a 1-2 inch mic, so yes, it's 1+something. And yes, the numbered hash marks make it 1.3 something. And yes... The un-numbered hash lines are each 1/4 of the major hash lines But since each of those minor hash lines is 1/4 of .100, it works out to twenty-five thousandths (.025). And as you turn the thimble (the part that spins), you are counting up thousandths to add to the previous .025 hash mark. So if the zero on the spindle lined up perfectly with the third minor hash line, you would be at 1.375 (1.3 + .075). But you're actually three thousandths beyond that 3/4 hash mark, so you have to add three more thousandths. 1.375 + .003, or 1.378 I whipped this up to hopefully help: Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64094-crank-snout-turning-nut/?&page=2#findComment-600913 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 9, 20204 yr comment_600915 And forgot to mention... The other small numbers with the lines that run parallel to the thimble are vernier lines to estimate between the other lines. So since your .003 doesn't line up exactly with the fixed line on the sleeve, you could use the vernier lines to get one more digit of accuracy. You are alllllmost at 1.378, but an RCH below that. Eyeballing it, I estimate it to be a tenth of a thousandth smaller than 1.378, or 1.3779. You can't see it around the back side of the mic in the pic, but I bet the small "9" line is lined up-ish with one of the marks on the thimble. But for what you're doing, we don't need to split thousandths. 1.378 is good enough for me. (As a side note... 35mm is 1.37795 inches) Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64094-crank-snout-turning-nut/?&page=2#findComment-600915 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 9, 20204 yr Author comment_600916 Thanks Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64094-crank-snout-turning-nut/?&page=2#findComment-600916 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 9, 20204 yr comment_600917 Glad to help. I'll take a look at what I have for raw materials around here and let you know. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64094-crank-snout-turning-nut/?&page=2#findComment-600917 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 12, 20204 yr comment_601051 So I found a chunk of stock that would probably work for a crank nut. It's not as thick as I would have liked, but it's what I got. However, before I got too deep into it, I wanted to verify measurements: I'm going to make the ID to be a slip fit over a 1.378 shaft. Couple thousandths over. You had previously mentioned that the key is .205 wide? I'm thinking "as long as the slot is wide enough that the device fits over the key, it will work". The goal would be to keep the amount of slop to a minimum, but since you're just using it to turn the crank, it really doesn't matter. There could be 5 degrees of slop and it would still work, right? I'm thinking you'll want to rock the force back and forth to get the motor unstuck, so slop like that would be "uncomfortable and feel cheap", but it would still work. So how about the DEPTH of the slot? How far out of the crank does the key stick up? And we already talked a little about the flats on the outside for using a wrench. Would just two flats on opposing sides work for your BFA? That would be the easiest to make. Square would be second easiest. And I could do hex, but it's just more work. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64094-crank-snout-turning-nut/?&page=2#findComment-601051 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 12, 20204 yr Author comment_601074 Looks like the depth is less than 0.100" on several of the cranks that I looked at Two flats is fine, if that's easiest Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64094-crank-snout-turning-nut/?&page=2#findComment-601074 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 12, 20204 yr comment_601079 CO: Are you cutting the keyway with a broach? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64094-crank-snout-turning-nut/?&page=2#findComment-601079 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 13, 20204 yr comment_601101 Broaching would certainly be the fastest and easiest. The problem, however, is that I don't have a broach that width. I know I have 1/4 (.250), and I think I have 3/16 (.1875), but I'm positive I don't have .205 I'm thinking I might broach to 3/16 and then finalize the width of the slot on the shaper. That would be a lot faster than hogging all of it out on the shaper. So to answer your question... I haven't completely decided yet? Haha!! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64094-crank-snout-turning-nut/?&page=2#findComment-601101 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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