Crank snout turning nut

[Captain Obvious]

5 hours ago, Patcon said:

Looks like the depth is less than 0.100" on several of the cranks that I looked at

Two flats is fine, if that's easiest

  .100 deep it shall be. And two flats.

[ETI4K]

Would it be any easier to make it this way?

The inner and outer sleeves would have to be welded (plug weld through the flats), but it might obviate using a broach or a shaper.   Since I have neither, I'd have to make it something like this.

The inner sleeve could be turned to a thickness of .125 to clear the key.

[Captain Obvious]

Creative thinking, but having the shaper (and hopefully a broach close to what I need?) I don't think it would save me much.  I'd still have to put the slot in the inner piece and for that, I'd use the shaper. Would be a little easier since I could do it as an external operation instead of internal, but not enough to warrant two pieces and welding.

I'm not stifling the creativity though! Certainly a way to make use of the tools you have to accomplish the task in a different way.  

And I like your pic a lot. I wish I had a CAD package I could use to whip up stuff like that! I'm still drawing by hand!  LOL!

[Captain Obvious]

So about these two opposing flats... How wide does your wrench open?

[ETI4K]

I'm running Inventor 2020.  If I'm making anything at all, I'll create the models first.  I have found my productivity is significantly greater as opposed to figuring it out as I go.  Also, my material waste due to errors and rework time dropped to near zero.  Mostly, its benefit, as I'm sure you know, is as a design checking tool. 

If there's something your working on and need to "see" it in 3D, I'm happy to help (I think! ?).  PM me.

[Patcon]

13 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

So about these two opposing flats... How wide does your wrench open?

That seems sort of personal...

Appears to be just a shade over 2  1/2"

 

[ETI4K]

If those calipers are still handy, would you mind measuring the damper hub OD?

[Captain Obvious]

9 hours ago, Patcon said:

That seems sort of personal...

I said wrench, not "wench".   

Thanks for the data. I'll make sure my opposing flats are within that range. I had already started aiming at 2", but since your wrench will go bigger, I might too. Less metal to remove.

[Captain Obvious]

10 hours ago, ETI4K said:

If there's something your working on and need to "see" it in 3D, I'm happy to help (I think! ?).

Thanks much for the offer! I'll keep in mind.  

[Derek]

Now you all know I love to machine stuff but it occurs to me maybe taking an old crank gear and grinding flats on it would be an easier way to go. 

 

[Patcon]

Interesting thought but I am not sure that would work that great. The crank gear is really not that thick when measure at the bottom of the grooves. Even thinner at the keyway. i already popped the balancer open that we had welded an arm to. Plus if yo grind flats, you will have to grind pretty deep to get a reasonable surface for the wrench to bear against. Now on an unfrozen motor, it would probably work fine. Although I would not want the press fit of the gear

[Captain Obvious]

Derek, That gives me a thought...  Instead of spending time on the nut portion of the equation, how about spending it on the TOOL portion.

Build a chain wrench designed to grab the teeth on the crank sprocket. Like this, but designed using a length of two row Nissan timing chain:

That'll be a project for the next guy...