Crank snout turning nut

[zKars]

I like the chain wrench idea with an old timing chain. It does require you take off the front cover.

How about this?

I’m assuming the problem with using the regular crank bolt is that it can’t be used to apply CCW torque or it just comes loose, so...

About investing in a M16x1.5 nut and using that to lock the bolt to the crank snout, then using your regular socket on the bolt head? Yes you have to invest in a 27mm open end wrench. I wonder how much torque that would take to back that off? Depends on how much torque you apply to tighten that nut.

The only M16x1.5 nut on the car I know of is the steering wheel lock bolt, but its pretty thin. I’d rather use a full width nut. Maybe a flange nut?

[Derek]

4 minutes ago, zKars said:

About investing in a M16x1.5 nut and using that to lock the bolt to the crank snout

The Jamb nut would need to be tighter than the locked up motor and that could be tough. 

 

[zKars]

19 minutes ago, Derek said:

The Jamb nut would need to be tighter than the locked up motor and that could be tough. 

 

Clearly there is a torque limit to this method that may very well not be enough for all locked up motors. It’s just a real simple and inexpensive first attempt before moving on to more forceful and expensive methods. 

 

[Patcon]

23 hours ago, ETI4K said:

If those calipers are still handy, would you mind measuring the damper hub OD?

Looks like 1.891"

This is the result of the damper and about 5' of pipe welded to it.

You can see the pipe under my hand.

Although the damper could have already been damaged from the PO

[zKars]

Forget my lock nut idea. Any torque requirement that busts a damper like that is way beyond a lock nut, and might beyond the M16 bolt shear strength.

[grannyknot]

How about using a starter and flywheel to break it loose?

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, grannyknot said:

How about using a starter and flywheel to break it loose?

Don't really have a good setup to rig that up and I'm not sure a starter would do it. I think this will be a battle of mm's to start with. If I can get it to move some. I can use a bore hone to clean it up and get it all the way free. Just need enough leverage

[Captain Obvious]

As I continue to work on the crank nut as I get the chance... Some questions.

Do the motors still have the oil pans on them? The reason I ask is that if the do, the insides are maybe less rusty than the top sides? And the reason that may be interesting is that it may be easier to push a piston DOWN rather than up. I'm thinking there's no reason you couldn't pull the crank and try to tap the pistons in the downward direction is there? Block of wood covering the entire piston face (for protection and force spreading) and a hammer? Thinking that if you could move them into a clean spot.

Or do you think they were maybe heat seized and have rings welded to bores? Reason I ask THAT is because if that's the case, you'll need to get the block bored and the old pistons won't work anyway. Might just crack them and pull out the pieces?

Anyway, just thinking of other alternatives in parallel of me working on that nut.

[Captain Obvious]

Oh, and after I see that busted damper, I'm thinking that the more meat I leave on the "nut" the better. In fact, how about I skip the flats completely and you just weld a pipe to it? I'm concerned that maybe your adjustable will smear the flats.

It's currently a little over 3" OD and maybe 3/4 thick hockey puck. Very thick walls at this point. The weak point is probably shearing the key off.

[zKars]

Something very appealing about torquing on the flywheel with a starter gear and the mechanical torque multiplier advantage you get with a 9:190 or whatever the flywheel tooth count is. A big bad thick plate you bolt on in place of the starter, bearing mounted 1” or so shaft with a starter gear on one end, 1/2 or 3/4” drive square on the other end. Shouldn’t need all that long a ratchet handle to put very considerable torque on the crankshaft.

Probably more costly and complex to make for such an occasional use tool....  Keep working on the crank nut. Still the most elegant solution. 

[ETI4K]

I think Patcon has potentially scaled the problem quite well with the pic of the blown hub.  A few (okay, maybe a lot of) assumptions here, but I might guess you maybe had most of your weight on the end of that pipe.  Let's assume you weigh about what I do, 170lb.  You were applying about 850 ft.lbs. of torque to that hub (if it wasn't already cracked as you suggested).  Further, if all six pistons are stuck "equally well" you're having to overcome the binding of six pistons all at once by turning the crank. 

Perhaps the way to go at might be to start as Captain suggested, remove the crank and drive the pistons down; and rather than use a hammer, why not a hydraulic press using very slow and steady pressure?

[Patcon]

Actually it didn't take a trememndous amount of force to pop the damper. Maybe 20-25#s. That is why I suspect the damper was already cracked. That seemed a little too easy. I am hoping to get it free enough to run it short term. We'll see. It's sort of a short term solution to a long term problem. If I start taking it apart to get it free, it expands everywhere and we have to start the engine build right away, with my funds not Cody's. Also it's an L20b so only four cylinders. I have pounded on the pistons some and believe I have the corrosion broken loose. It's just a matter of gaining access to new ground for cleaning up. This engine still has the oil pan on it I believe. I am not too worried about wiping the flats. The weak link is really the engine stand and bolts. I have to put teenagers on all three points to hold it down in order to pull on it. I may chain it down next time but the stand bracket and block bolts will eventually be the weak link if too much muscle is used

As an aside I am about 230# all fitted out. So I can exert some pressure even through the 2' crescent wrench. If that won't get some movement it will be time to reevaluate.

Another comment. One of the problems of going from the flywheel end is there is very little room between the flywheel and the engine stand for tools or bars and there are 4 bolt locations so you are very limited in rotational freedom