Jump to content
Email logins are now active ×

IGNORED

Darned Brake lines


mdbrandy

Recommended Posts

Well, care and the "right" tools haven't worked this time. On the right front brake line from the proportioning valve to the bracket/hose fitting, I have managed to pretty badly round the flare fitting at the wheel end. Penetrating oil, 10mm flare wrench, emory paper on the tube trying to remove rust before turning, etc. didn't help. The nut actually broke loose and started to turn, but must have bound on the tube even though I cleaned the stupid thing up. I thought it kept turning, but apparently it was rounding off, even in the flare wrench. So. Before I go at it with the vice grips, any other suggestions? I searched the forums, and didn't see any other ideas. Is this pipe even available? I'd be happy to cut it off and buy a new one, but I don't see it in catalogs, so I suppose that isn't an option. Still have three more corners to do, too!

One other question: I managed to get the fitting off at the clutch slave cylinder, but the pipe snapped in half with no effort at all - either it was rusted almost through, or there was welding damage from previous pan work that was performed about an inch away some years ago. (The pipe and fitting was covered with weld goo and spatter) Is this a parts-car only piece, or can you get new?

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

VicBrit has all the hard brake lines in their catalog, more than likey MSA can get them also. If you looked up the part numbers on the Microfiche, you might even be able to get them from a dealer as well. I'm fairly sure they are all still available.

You could check with Courtesy Nissan and maybe get a discount:ermm:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, I'll certainly check tomorrow. I have a VB catalog that I just got in the last couple days, and it only lists the brake lines from the hose to the caliper or wheel cylinder. As long as they're available from SOMEBODY, I'll be happy. :classic:

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know about the other lines, but for 70 to 5/72 240Z's the "RIGHT" Rear Brake Bridge (from the Hose to the Wheel Cylinder) is definitely NOT available from Nissan, or Vic Brit. Already tried to get one, and "NLA" is the response. MSA lists it, but I have not contacted them. I'm switching to the 6/72 to 76 style of RWC since they are FAR cheaper to replace.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by BambiKiller240

Oh, BTW; there are places that can make brake lines in either OEM steel or stainless steel. www.classictube.com is one, and www.inlinetube.com is another.

I'm having some made by Classic Tube right now

Thanks for the info and the links. Classic advertises a complete set of stainless steel lines for a "1969" 240Z for $200. Be interesting to see if they fit, and if it's really ALL the brake lines.

At least I know I can replace any that don't come off cleanly, and maybe all of them! I think I'll wait for the Kroil that's on order to try the other three corners, though...

Thanks again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually, I was able to find the hard steel brake lines at the local Advance Auto Parts store. They are straight tubes that you have to bend yourself, but they weren't particularly expensive.

(Buy a tubing bender... and maybe an extra line...)

I don't know about the rear lines yet....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Walter Moore

Actually, I was able to find the hard steel brake lines at the local Advance Auto Parts store. They are straight tubes that you have to bend yourself, but they weren't particularly expensive.

(Buy a tubing bender... and maybe an extra line...)

I don't know about the rear lines yet....

I've done this before, and it works IF you can find a line that is very close to the length that you need. Otherwise you end up with extra "loops" or other bends to take up the extra length. You just need to take lots of time and care to get the bends in the correct location AND of the correct radius. If you bend too far, you are screwed. BTW, the wrench size required for the fittings MAY NOT be the same as what came from the factory. The generic line I bought required 11 mm wrench where the factory stuff used 10mm wrenches.

If you are doing a "restoration", that would not be acceptable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My "restoration" will be to the point of trying to make the car look stock wherever it isn't too hard to do so. I would, however, much prefer to have fittings, bolts, nuts, etc. be stock sizes. I really hate finding SAE head-size metric-thread bolts on this thing! I've only found a few, but they REALLY annoyed me! Those will definately be replaced. If I can get brake lines with 10mm fittings, I will do that. I'd use 11mm only if I couldn't get the 10.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Carl,

Did you get your brake lines from Classictube yet? Are they just like OEM, with the same 10 MM fittings?

In removing my suspension this weekend, both of the rear brake lines from the center of the car to the rubber hoses broke off.

Thanks,

Marty

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Marty Rogan

Carl,

Did you get your brake lines from Classictube yet? Are they just like OEM, with the same 10 MM fittings?

Hi Marty;

I did receive the rear brake bridges from ClassicTube. They are in Stainless steel and look great but it took them a while to make them for me. HOWEVER, the Hex size is 11mm rather than 10mm. The diameter and thread pitch is correct for the fittings, but I'm told that Nissan used an oddball (10mm) hex size that isn't available anymore. The extra 1mm gives a bit more "meat" for the wrench to grasp onto, and distribute the stress applied by the wrench, I'm told.

Since my flarenut wrench set has 10,11,12,13,14,15mm sizes, and I'm not going for a 100 point resto, I'm OK with the minor difference. Not that I have much choice, since the late style right rear bridge tube is NLA from Nissan.

BTW, I wasn't able to find any pre-made straight lengths of brake line with the correct 10mm hex head size to fab my own replacement lines either. Everyone had only the 11 hex head fittings with the correct diameter and thread pitch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.