Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

“Chugging” noise.


moozieman

Recommended Posts

Nothing screws up the idle like a vacuum leak. As noted above, that filter on the valve cover opening is bad news, and a major vacuum leak.  It's a pain to trace and check the vacuum hoses on these engines, but they are often the problem.

Edited by Pilgrim
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/20/2020 at 12:46 PM, Pilgrim said:

Nothing screws up the idle like a vacuum leak. As noted above, that filter on the valve cover opening is bad news, and a major vacuum leak.  It's a pain to trace and check the vacuum hoses on these engines, but they are often the problem.

I had mentioned this in a previous thread, the previous owner plugged up the breather port on the block with a freeze plug. Therefore I have no pcv valve. I added that filter up top to act as my vent

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Zed Head said:

Did you do this test yet?  Below.  And check the vacuum line to the FPR for fuel.  It might have a blown diaphragm.

image.png

I’m confused. This test is for water temp sensor? (Which btw, my thermotime and water temp are unplugged) (it doesn’t run otherwise.)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, if the water temperature sensor is disconnected the ECU will supply maximum extra fuel.  That's probably why yours is running so rich.

If it doesn't run when it's connected it might be because it is shorted out, making the mixture as lean as possible.  Or because you have a large vacuum leak, maybe through the PCV system.

People often mess around for weeks or months trying to avoid doing the tests.  But there's a reason that Nissan created a completely separate book, very detailed, with instructions, illustrated, covering all of the years from 1975 through 1980, and published it.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Yes, if the water temperature sensor is disconnected the ECU will supply maximum extra fuel.  That's probably why yours is running so rich.

If it doesn't run when it's connected it might be because it is shorted out, making the mixture as lean as possible.  Or because you have a large vacuum leak, maybe through the PCV system.

People often mess around for weeks or months trying to avoid doing the tests.  But there's a reason that Nissan created a completely separate book, very detailed, with instructions, illustrated, covering all of the years from 1975 through 1980, and published it.

 

How should I test for a short? It’s usually unplugged because of how rough it runs when it’s plugged in.

Edited by moozieman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.