Zedheads, 

Trying to wrap my mind around the next phase of my project which is a suspension/steering rebuild.  Lot's of old, disintegrating bushings.  Not sure where to start/how to approach, so figured I'd reach out for advice. Specifically:

1. Both front and back ends need TLC.  Does it matter which end I start with?  Which is easier? ?
2. What are the biggest "gotchas"?  What's gonna make me want to cry?
3. What else should I do while in there?  (diff mounts, engine mounts, wheel bearings, etc.)
4. What are the pros/cons of using OEM versus Poly bushings? Any product recommendations
5. What are the best struts to use?
6. For the front end, is it worth it to drop the whole suspension assembly (cross members)?  If so, how does one support the engine?  Same question for reinstall.
7. For the rear end...
   • ...is it really best practice to BURN the moustache bushings out, rather than pressing them out?
   • ...is it worth it to drop the whole assembly (diff, drive shafts) as one?  Same question for reinstall.
   • ...what's the best mounting option for the front diff

Any other insight, advice, tips, warnings, heads-ups, best practices mush approeciated!

1. The fronts should be easier.

2.

1. Spindle pins in the rear can be a gotcha, should look up some threads on that, and look into getting a removal tool to assist with it.
2. if you use poly bushings on the tension control arm get a rubber bushing as a backing, sometimes they can be too stiff.
3. control arm bushings are asymmetrical (there's a recent thread on this)
4. inspect the control arms for cracking.
5. Paint stuff while you're down there.

3. diff mounts would be nice, some use RT style mounts. I used the oem bushing, and the RT mount with a cone bushing to remove the OEM strap.

4. More vibrations from poly, although you cant find some of the OEM rubber bushings anymore..... I got the kit from Energy Suspension, you can find $20 dollar off coupons for AutoZone sometimes.

5. If your accountant lets you, i hear good things about the Koni Yellows. I use KYB struts, kinda wish i got the Koni yellows, i was a poor college student at the time. ha

6. I did not drop my subframe, i did one side at a time. I used a piece of wood to hold up the motor if i had it off the mounts.

7.

1. My bushings looked OK, i did not remove them.
2. I cant remember ?
3. I really like the RT mount https://technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html I cut off 0.5" off the tip of the poly mount, i think @Diseazd recommended it but i could be wrong.

 

19 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

1. The fronts should be easier.

2.

1. Spindle pins in the rear can be a gotcha, should look up some threads on that, and look into getting a removal tool to assist with it.
2. if you use poly bushings on the tension control arm get a rubber bushing as a backing, sometimes they can be too stiff.
3. control arm bushings are asymmetrical (there's a recent thread on this)
4. inspect the control arms for cracking.
5. Paint stuff while you're down there.

3. diff mounts would be nice, some use RT style mounts. I used the oem bushing, and the RT mount with a cone bushing to remove the OEM strap.

4. More vibrations from poly, although you cant find some of the OEM rubber bushings anymore..... I got the kit from Energy Suspension, you can find $20 dollar off coupons for AutoZone sometimes.

5. If your accountant lets you, i hear good things about the Koni Yellows. I use KYB struts, kinda wish i got the Koni yellows, i was a poor college student at the time. ha

6. I did not drop my subframe, i did one side at a time. I used a piece of wood to hold up the motor if i had it off the mounts.

7.

1. My bushings looked OK, i did not remove them.
2. I cant remember ?
3. I really like the RT mount https://technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html I cut off 0.5" off the tip of the poly mount, i think @Diseazd recommended it but i could be wrong.

 

 

 

I completely agree with your list.  The only thing I'd add is to modify the front crossmember LCA pivot points.  I went up 3/4" and out 1/4" and it really improved the bumpsteer.  It was an easy job.  If you can find a used crossmember and modify it ahead of time, you can swap them pretty quickly.  Then just sell the take out crossmember to recoup the money.  I had the whole car apart, so it wasn't a problem.  You can support the engine with a rented engine hoist to swap it out.

7 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

I completely agree with your list.  The only thing I'd add is to modify the front crossmember LCA pivot points.  I went up 3/4" and out 1/4" and it really improved the bumpsteer.  It was an easy job.  If you can find a used crossmember and modify it ahead of time, you can swap them pretty quickly.  Then just sell the take out crossmember to recoup the money.  I had the whole car apart, so it wasn't a problem.  You can support the engine with a rented engine hoist to swap it out.

Is there a way to do this on the car? I would think that making the points aligned and straight might be difficult without some type of jig. Maybe can insert a tube that is the same size as the drill bit between the 2 planes where you drill.

Ive read of this modification on hybridZ..

  For the rear end...

• ...is it really best practice to BURN the moustache bushings out, rather than pressing them out?

Its best practice to leave them if they are ok. no more sacrifices to the PU gods... Is this a track car or are you daily driving it.

1 hour ago, heyitsrama said:

Is there a way to do this on the car? I would think that making the points aligned and straight might be difficult without some type of jig. Maybe can insert a tube that is the same size as the drill bit between the 2 planes where you drill.

Ive read of this modification on hybridZ..

I wouldn’t want to try it on the car. It wasn’t a hard job but does require precise layout and drilling. The doublers need to be removed and then tack welded back over the new holes. I used an air chisel to pop the spot welds off the old doublers and then a simple tack weld will hold them in place once moved. Some minor clearancing is also needed so the LCA’s move through full travel. The job took maybe 30 minutes total once on the workbench. 

On 7/15/2020 at 8:13 PM, Jughead said:

? 

1. For the rear end...
   • ...is it really best practice to BURN the moustache bushings out, rather than pressing them out.

I would stick with the original bushes where possible for a street car.

If you go with PU, be carefull with PU components on the front compression rods. They are known to break due to the extra stiffness.

People literally burn these old bushes out. Must like breathing in toxic fumes. I have had a lot of sucess by grabbing the center bush with a pair of vice grips, heating only the outside metal and twisting the inner bush. It will let go eventually and you can pull it straight out with very little mess and fumes.

 

On 7/15/2020 at 11:13 AM, Jughead said:

1. • ...is it worth it to drop the whole assembly (diff, drive shafts) as one?  Same question for reinstall.

I think it's actually easier.  The first time I removed the diff in my car, I messed around with trying to only remove the diff and leave everything else attached.  It was a pain.  Much easier to drop the mustache bar, diff and crossmember as a unit.  Leave the inner suspension contact points hanging.  If you're going to do the suspension at the same time, drop it all as one if you have the means to support it and drag it out.  

 

Edited July 17, 20204 yr by Zed Head

It's a street car/driver.  So OEM bushings? Anything else I'll run into but forgot to ask?

Thanks all - luv you guys!

On 7/17/2020 at 2:02 PM, EuroDat said:

I would stick with the original bushes where possible for a street car.

I agree, @Mike hint hint

The Fonz used it for "I approve" followed by "aaaay".

 

 

7 hours ago, siteunseen said:

The Fonz used it for "I approve" followed by "aaaay".

Yeah but the Fonz would never wear yellow gloves.