July 30, 20204 yr Author comment_603554 A simple hole drilled and cutting maybe a 1/2 inch down the side of the bushing will get it back far enough but now I’ll have to install the brake cable and see what’s going on. I’m more worried about the position of the diff now than anything. I may still have the old mount but without it I’ll just have to wait till I drop the engine and transmission in to see what’s up with the prop shaft. Honestly Now I’m not even sure which direction the mustache bar goes...It’s one way in the book but I’ve seen other ways on the web. My bar is flat unlike the later bars. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64288-mustache-bars-and-rear-diffs-advice/?&page=2#findComment-603554 Share on other sites More sharing options...
July 30, 20204 yr comment_603555 @Clay C When you get some time i would take a read through these threads: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129706-t3-mustache-bar-in-early-470-240z-causing-r180-diff-to-move-back/ Just to get more ideas for potential solutions. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64288-mustache-bars-and-rear-diffs-advice/?&page=2#findComment-603555 Share on other sites More sharing options...
July 30, 20204 yr Author comment_603556 I read that yesterday, ...well sort of until the part where he was using the upgrade T3 bar...then my head started hurting trying to make sense of it. I think I have the other prop shaft if it would be the same thing that came off a 280? I have a storage box full of 280 parts but I’ve never built a 280 either. This is all new but I’m figuring it out as I go along. The half shaft angle is important right? I have a good driveline guy in town so if those half shafts lines up and I can get the RT snubber over the housing instead of yoke part then I should be good I think. When I finally get to dropping engine and transmission in I’ll check my prop shaft. I can always have my driveline guy lengthen or shorten if needed. This is all because I can’t find an early model front diff insulator. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64288-mustache-bars-and-rear-diffs-advice/?&page=2#findComment-603556 Share on other sites More sharing options...
July 31, 20204 yr comment_603557 The 280 shaft would work. Keep the shorter shaft, people use it when they swap in a "71C" transmission. It's valuable. The R200 probably has the wrong ratio for that 3.592 first gear in your four speed. A list of parts might help you figure out what sets of parts will work together. Here's a link to your build thread for reference. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64288-mustache-bars-and-rear-diffs-advice/?&page=2#findComment-603557 Share on other sites More sharing options...
July 31, 20204 yr comment_603558 Hi all. Fun to see pics from my site. Like I said on the page, the RT mount didn't fit my '71 right. It took a few hours to modify but I think I've got it in the right spot. I thought about drilling a hole to move the bushing back but the bracket itself interfere with the parking brake yoke so cutting and welding seemed like the only choice. I haven't driven it yet, so I don't know how well it works but I think it'll be better than the original strap which was shredded into pieces. I bought the car as a semi-basket case so I don't know if it's the stock moustache bar but it seems to fit right. Hopefully you got a laugh at the gold differential. Clay, if you run into problems don't hesitate to email me - I'll be happy to help. Had I known how much different a '70-71 would be, I would have looked for a '72 (which is what I owned years ago) but it's too late to change and I'm happy with the way this one is turning out. Edited July 31, 20204 yr by Acemon Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64288-mustache-bars-and-rear-diffs-advice/?&page=2#findComment-603558 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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