On 8/18/2022 at 9:52 AM, ToolBoy said:

Wrenches like that are called spanners.  Fixed, the the one you have here, and adjustable. Some have a handle, instead of a square for a ratchet or breaker bar.

On 8/18/2022 at 9:42 AM, ToolBoy said:

 I also read somewhere that the oil helps dissipate heat. . .  

Since the strut cartridge isn't a tight fit, it is possible that filling the void with oil may help conduct heat. It could even help keep moisture out, reducing the likelihood that corrosion may form.

But even during extended periods of stroking up and down, during a track day, or a race, not much heat will develop from the fluid inside the shock moving through the valving. There isn't very much travel, as opposed to something with long suspension travel, like an off road desert racer. And what little heat that is generated is absorbed by the strut housing and dissipated quickly.

 

Tool-Boy,

Koni's "Ikea-like" instruction sheet indicates that you should add oil to fill the gap between the strut tube and shock cartridge. It helps cool the shock and minimizes corrosion. If you ever want to remove the shock from the strut many years down the road you will be very happy you added the oil. I've always used ATF in my struts and they were rust free when I installed the yellow Koni's last winter. Just don't overfill them and leave a little freeboard for thermal expansion.

Thanks guys, 

Feeling much better about putting rear suspension together and back on the car again. Shocks seemed like they should be so obvious but I just wasn't sure. This site and everybody that participates is really appreciated. Gonna make her roll and then yank the engine and tear into the 5 speed. I'm gonna know and have gone thru and either painted, plated or replaced every nut, bolt and screw by the time I'm done. You will hear from me again!  Best to all!  

And I know somebody's gonna notice from the photo. The brake backing plate is on the wrong side strut housing. This was a dry fit and I've since corrected. Stub axles pressed in soon. Inner bearing races and spacer will be supported from behind when stub axle is pressed in. 

If someone has a kyb gland but they want to sell let me know ! I need one

I've got some gland nuts here in a box. Can you post a pic of the style you're looking for? I'll check the box.

I didn’t install the struts so not 100 percent if they are correct for kyb. The struts were lose in the tubes I was able to get the passenger side right and snugged in there so should work. 

Edited August 23, 20222 yr by Daluvian

3 hours ago, Daluvian said:

I didn’t install the struts so not 100 percent if they are correct for kyb. The struts were lose in the tubes I was able to get the passenger side right and snugged in there so should work. 

One of the gland nut wrenches I posted pictures of earlier would have fit that nut before it was attacked by a welder and a pipe wrench.

Daluvian, I will look to see if I've got one of those.

I took a look at what I have, and I unfortunately do not have a spare KYB gland nut. Here's a pic of what I could quickly put my hands on... Note that the new KYB on the bottom row is not available. I took that out of a KYB strut box here and the plan is that strut (and it's nut) will find it's way onto my car.

I don't know the brand/origin of the top left nut or the one top middle. The top right is from a Tokico strut, and the bottom two are new KYB's' from a front strut box. I need the big KYB, but the small one is extra. Too small for my strut tubes:

 

The struts on a 280z have a larger OD tube iirc

Yes, the 280 tubes are thicker wall, but I think the ID and the threads of the the 240 and 280 are the same.

If the 240 uses the smaller KYB nut, then those are available. I have no need for those! That would be a perfect solution!