1977 280Z Bouncing speedometer

[240zadmire]

Yes, I saw a few and don’t know what they do... one on alternator, one from ignition coil... few some other area.  I have FSM.  It is maze.  I’m ready it a lot but probably about 5-10% sink in.  

[240zadmire]

The speedometer is definitely better.  I only pull the wire, clean, lubed and put back again.  The gear is hard to get out and it is hot today at my place ?. It still jumping/dancing from 0-20 mph like it needs momentum.  Once it passes 20, it is much smoother but still jerking/ bouncing.  One of these day when it cool down, will take out the gear, speedometer set and do another thorough clean up.  
 

regards

 

[EuroDat]

13 hours ago, 240zadmire said:

I’ll go with your suggestion to make a spade on the distributor.  Does it matter where to mount or? Either on one of the 2 bolts to mount the body or that screw on the picture.  ?!

The condensor on the californian 77 280Z is funny dubble ended condenser. One end goes to the midle spade terminal on the ballast and the other goes to the distributor. 

The spade wire goes to a bullet connector to the condenser. Can you trace the two spade wires on the ballast and see where they go?

The color 1977 wiring diagram (not original nissan diagram) doesn't show it clearly, but the 1978 does. Note the 78 doesn't use a ballast because they switched to a 12v coil. The condensor wire splices into the coil positive wire.

 

 

Edited August 10, 2020 by EuroDat

[cgsheen1]

Damn, I have a '77 in the shop right now and I completely forgot to look how it's condenser is wired this morning... I'll look tomorrow. 

We don't actually have many lates (77-78) in the Phoenix area. Lot's of 75-76 and that's what I'm used to - but they changed a lot of stuff in the lates...

I looked at the FSM, it doesn't help much with this particular issue - just the pic similar to what EuroDat posted above.

But, having or not having that condenser wired has nothing to do with engine running, speedometer working, It's job is to cut electrical noise that may be picked up by the radio for the most part.

Edited August 10, 2020 by cgsheen1

[240zadmire]

@cgsheen1

 

Please see if you can find the wire connect to anywhere.  Also, can you confirm if it has the Anti-stall Dashpot? the Dashpot suppose to mount on top of the Throttle body and at the end of the accelerator link.

Mine doesn't have it.  Read on other forums seem like no effect to remove it.

 

regards

 

 

[EuroDat]

The front bullect connector conects to a Black/Blue strip wird in the harness. It goes to the ballast spade connector in the middle of the ballast risistor. One of the wires with a spade terminal in the middle section of your ballast resistor should be Black with a blue strip. It goes into the harness going to the front of the car and comes back out somewhere between the coil and AFM with a bullet connector.

The other end of the condensor connects to a black wire that goes to the M6 bolt on the distributor mount.

 

 

Edited August 11, 2020 by EuroDat
Better photo ofdistributor

[240zadmire]

@EuroDat

thats an excellent photos and descriptive.  Will definitely try out tonight after work. 
thanks a lot.

 

regards

 

[240zadmire]

Hi all

- did a terminals cleanup per this site

- replaces the last remaining connectors of AAR and CSV.

- connect the offend condenser wire to distributor body

 

the only connector not replace is the 7 pins to the AFM.  It looked pretty “polish”. I’ll keep it as is.  No need to replace.  A cleanup if need be.

 

fire her up from cold.  RPM a bit low.  Around 500 then slowly climb up to 1100rpm in probably 5 seconds without any assistant.   Probably 45 seconds to a minute, rpm lowering down to about 900-1000rpm.  Retarded is set to about 5 degrees or so.  Pulley is smooth like baby butt.  I had rotate cam to top dead center and paint mark it from an angle.  Probably not straight to the gauge.

 

please hear the sound.  Is the high pitch, tsk tsk tsk are the injectors sound or is it lashing?

 

regards

280z idle sound.m4a

[Zed Head]

10 hours ago, 240zadmire said:

- replaces the last remaining connectors of AAR 

fire her up from cold.  RPM a bit low.  Around 500 then slowly climb up to 1100rpm in probably 5 seconds without any assistant.

Your AAR might be stuck or not working.  The AAR should let enough air by the throttle to give you a high idle at cold startup then close and let it drop back down, after about a minute.

The L engines are kind of noisy in general.

[240zadmire]

hi @Zed Head

I pulled out the main vacuum hose and mouth blow air in.  There is some resistant feel like you're wearing a mask but you can still blow it.   I pulled the CSV and wrapped it in a plastic zip bag, one hand block the air passage where the CSV needle is installed, crank the car and see that CSV did squirt fuel to the plastic bag.  It squirted about a tea spoon of fuel.  Put back everything and crank the car up.  RPM start around 500 and slowly increase to 1100 or 1200 RPM until engine is warm.  Let her run for good 10 minutes and shut her down.  Pull the main vacuum to the AAR, and try to blow, cannot blow it. I suppose it is working as I understand the AAR is energize and/or heat from the manifold change the bi-metal to close the valve.  I repeat the same steps of pulling the CSV to see if gas is quirt out when engine is hot and it is confirm my understanding the CSV only operate at cold temperature.

Seem like the engine starve for air when start from cold.  Could that be AFM sensor?

FWI, I had another AAR that is faulty.  Even if i heat it up using the heat gun, I can still blow air easily either direction.

When the engine is hot, she idle beautifully.

[Zed Head]

7 minutes ago, 240zadmire said:

 RPM start around 500 and slowly increase to 1100 or 1200 RPM until engine is warm.  Let her run for good 10 minutes and shut her down.  Pull the main vacuum to the AAR, and try to blow, cannot blow it. I suppose it is working as I understand the AAR is energize and/or heat from the manifold change the bi-metal to close the valve.

I don't see where you tested to see if the AAR was open when it was cold.  That is what will give you a high idle when cold.  Open when cold, then closed when hot.  The AAR also has an internal heater to heat it up.

[240zadmire]

@Zed Head don’t know what you call it but

 

the hose connected to the AAR that I pulled out to blow air in before cold start did have some resistant but can still blow air.