one last thought, when running AC the assumption is its hotter than heck outside. Make sure you engine cooling system is up to snuff, the hot AC condenser is going to make the rad less able to get rid of heat (preheating the already hot air flowing thru the radiator). So make sure the rad is in tip top condition. Same goes for the rest of the cooling system (fan clutch/hoses/belts).

Look inside the radiator has not of white calcium/scales.  The fins has a few damage probably something was caught in the fan blade.  I drove around the neighbor for half an hour and the temperature gauge's needle is right between 120 and 250.  I figure, probably 180, 190.  I see lot of people put the 3 rows aluminum.  I'm sure it is much better than the stock one but to me, it looks ugly.  I think there is an after market selling for $300 or so.  I'm not there yet.  This AC will take a long time I afraid.  Worse case, there is always outside air ? or use this during traffic jam   economical and environmental friendly!

   

Edited August 14, 20204 yr by 240zadmire

I used a common cheap aftermarket radiator from OReilly Auto and it worked great.  I had to mess with the mounting brackets, they weren't perfect, but once it was installed it was much better than the old factory radiator.

On the AC, as I understand things, it's the lubricating oil that is the problem with changing refrigerants.  You have to purge the whole system of refrigerant and oil before adding the new stuff.  I knew a guy at an import shop that said he had had good results draining systems and leaving them on a vacuum pump overnight before refilling with new material.  But, the system still has to be leak free for it to work.  If you opened it and didn't hear the whoosh of refrigerant escaping it's probably had moisture inside and corrosion, I'd guess.   Odds are against you.

 

Funny story (now, maybe) - I was looking under the hood of my grandfather's truck many years ago when I was a kid and noticed the sight glass for the AC system.  I started pressing on it to see if it would move while my grandfather was telling me I shouldn't do that, leave it alone, .... then whoosh, I got a blast of refrigerant in the face as I managed to push the sight glass off its seat.  He said he didn't really use it anyway.

Edited August 14, 20204 yr by Zed Head

7 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

 

Funny story (now, maybe) - I was looking under the hood of my grandfather's truck many years ago when I was a kid and noticed the sight glass for the AC system.  I started pressing on it to see if it would move while my grandfather was telling me I shouldn't do that, leave it alone, .... then whoosh, I got a blast of refrigerant in the face as I managed to push the sight glass off its seat.  He said he didn't really use it anyway.

that's the only way to learn sir.  At least for me any way.  Try to use all my senses.  "Curiosity kll the cat"!  Don't get kill though.

 

I was looking at this awhile back.  Looking very good.  Perhaps waiting for winter to get both AC and radiator hoping the new promoted marketing director saw a slow in demand of these items during winter weather and give a huge discount ?

I can wish, can i!

.https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/murray-heat-transfer-4283/cooling---heating-16773/radiator-20386/radiator-11357/02ac48565f9e/murray-heat-transfer-radiator/433634/4459519/1977/nissan/280z?q=radiator&pos=0

 

I am doing aftermarket air heat and defrost in my 78 this winter and am starting to collect parts now.
So far I have the vintage air gen 2 mini box and the vintage air 24x14 condensor.
I will be going with a sanden style compressor all 134a with EZ clip hoses.

So far my parts list is around 1500 give or take
That is replacing everything in the car. I will be doing all the hoses and fabrication myself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@AZDatsun

 

sound like a good plan.  Keep us update please

 

R12  AIRCO   NO NEED TO REPLACE ANYTHING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I  just wanted to ad... if R12 airco is no longer serviced and rebuild for R134a is to expensive.. you can now use (since 2012!) R437a(isceon mo49 plus)  (this was R413a isceon mo49)  There is NO need to replace ANY PART !   oil stays the same.. can filled up just before loading the gas. (If neccessary)

Edited August 15, 20204 yr by dutchzcarguy

Is it available in the States?

17 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Is it available in the States?

I really don't know if it's still available, for as far i know it was here in europe available in 2012

It might be.  Worth checking.  When the whole issue of the ozone layer and R12 started, some countries banned certain refrigerants and others didn't.  There was and has been a lot of research going on to find new chemistries.  Maybe there is a simple replacement available now that doesn't get much press, because the cars that needed it have all grown old and decrepit.  The market is smaller.

Also, wouldn't be a surprise to find that R12 is now legal in the US, considering the last three years.  Ozone layer?  Just use more sunscreen.  (That's sarcasm, not my real opinion).

https://www.epa.gov/ozone-layer-protection/ozone-depleting-substances

https://www.epa.gov/ozone-layer-protection/international-treaties-and-cooperation-about-protection-stratospheric-ozone

17 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Worth checking.

Last year i checkt my 300zxtt (as new with 86000km) aircon.. and it got very cold 4,9 C.  (don't know Mr Fahrenheit.. ?  )   It runs after 28 years still on the first filling R12!   (thats because i use it every 4-6 weeks... i run it every 4-6 weeks.  on the road or in storage (in my own heated and isolated garage)  This is very important, the oil keeps the systems connections airtight.  (there are still people who want to save the system by not using it and that gives a LOT of failures! )

For the time it works i don't need a replacement..

17 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Ozone layer? 

Overhere i hear nothing (for years now) about the ozone layer..  is it good now or gone with the wind??
    Also you don't hear anything anymore about the "acid rain" that would destroy our forests..  i guess "they" have other things on theire minds thats more important (read: brings more money!.. )

I’m an idiot.  Can you please hand hold me and tell me exactly which one is the low pressure and which one is high pressure valves? I cannot correlate the picture with the  actual setup in the car.

1.  is the valve from the compressor to the cabin/firewall is the low pressure and the other is high pressure?

 

2. I bought the fitting and it already has the needles in it.  When I open the caps from the compressor, there is also needle already in them.  Should I remove the needles already in the valves currently on the compressor?

 

i want to pull the vacuum to see if there is any leak without starting the car.

 

regards