1977 280z clock issue #xx of yy

[Dave WM]

yea I would think there has to be a few electronic stores in socal, used to be a mecca for such things out there.

[zclocks]

Try JK Electronics in Westminster , Orange county CA or the best is Torrance electronics in Torrance Ca on Carson street. Also" ALL electronics" in Van Nuys Ca.They are on line and only take electronic orders.  

Edited August 19, 2020 by zclocks

[240zadmire]

@zclocks

thank you sir.  I also found a store close to a college I used to go to, MarVac electronics.  Surprised and glad at the same time that they’re open.

will do “road trip” for this treasure this weekend

 

regards

 

[240zadmire]

Hi all

So if I get this correct, the capacitance should/must remain the same but the voltage should be the same or higher is ok. 
Read articles online... some suggested the voltage can be double.  Even though the voltage is higher than the current circuitry, the capacitor can only be charged up to its capacitance, not the volt?!!  
 

in other word, so long the circuitry that uses the capacitor doesn’t expect high voltage, then it’s ok?

 

for example, 

A current is pass to capacitor 10uf 12v and connect to it is a resistor 10ohm 10v.

 

if I were to change capacitor to 10uf and 24v or 50v, it should be ok because capacitor can only store its electron/capacitance up to 10uf

i know it is trivial but I try to wrap my brain around this.

 

thanks

 

 

[Dave WM]

use the same capacitance, higher voltage rating is ok. FYI I always check new parts before installing, so use the cap test function on your DVM to make sure before you install it.

Capacitance is what matters for the circuit to perform, the voltage rating is so you don't damage the cap. also pay attention to polarity, most electrolytics are poloarized.

most modern caps will be smaller than the original, so get one that has the same uf and close enough in size to fit the board. It will no doubt be higher voltage than the orig if its even close to the same size.

Edited August 20, 2020 by Dave WM

[JagoBlitz]

The toroid and this gear should be glued together, right?
When I disassembled the clock the gear just fell out.
 

Edited August 2, 2022 by JagoBlitz

[cgsheen1]

11 hours ago, JagoBlitz said:

The toroid and this gear should be glued together, right?
...

Yup.

 

[JagoBlitz]

Can this be unscrewed or disassembled?

[Patcon]

What is it?

[JagoBlitz]

The adjuster for my 280Z Quartz clock.

[SteveJ]

1 hour ago, JagoBlitz said:

Can this be unscrewed or disassembled?

@zclocks Ron, do you have an answer?

[cgsheen1]

If you've tried holding the plastic "knob" in the front while using a flat blade screwdriver at the back and it didn't unscrew, then I'd assume the knob is pressed on the shaft like many other knobs on a steel shaft. Since it's a thing that's meant to be turned, I'd think it was the latter - a knurled shaft with the knob pressed on. Since it has a spring behind it, the fit would have to be very tight.

It has a few disparate parts, so there had to be an assembly procedure. Now, whether it was meant to be disassembled is another matter... I have a few at the shop but I've never tried to take that particular assembly apart.

Edited August 13, 2022 by cgsheen1