1977 280z - weatherstrip kit

[S30Driver]

In my experience with the trim, it is actually stainless, not chromed, so it polishes back up nicely with steel wool and a buffer. 

Therefore as an alternative to new, a used set if carefully removed from say a parts car by cutting the rubber seal to release it without bending and distorting it is a excellent option.  I invested in the trim tool to re-install it in the seals channel before putting the glass back in.

The trim re-installs easily with a soapy lube in the channel if its shape is not changed on removal.   Unfortunately, I am guessing parts cars are few and far between in the UK.

It is OEM from ZcarDepot,  the 200 prefix in their part  number is the key for OEM.

Edited August 26, 2020 by S30Driver
addition

[240zadmire]

One more thing, for the door seals issue, is the issue relate to door not able to completely close that water leak in? Is it too thick that doors hard to close?

is the seal a one piece that not fit at all?

regards

 

 

[EuroDat]

I know of two Zed door seal manufactures, Vintage rubber and Pacific Rim. The seals made by Vintage rubber are far superior than those from Pacific Rim.

Who sells what, I don't remember. I used the Kia sportage seals and find them very good. Compression is about 25% which is reccomended for a good seals without deforming the window frame. You will need to cut and glue the seal at the top rear of the window section.

The Kia seal will work on the rear hatch, but it is a different profile and has about 40% compression which makes the lid harder to close. No cutting required.

I purchased 3 from Kia in South Korea for $37,50 ($12,50 ea) and $8,50 shipping.

 

Edited August 28, 2020 by EuroDat
Found old thread. Link added

[240zadmire]

https://zcardepot.com/collections/weatherstripping/products/quarter-window-rubber-vertical-seal-260z-280z?_pos=1&_sid=07efb0f87&_ss=r

 

 

this piece is quite pricey.  Sort of molding the rubber with the metal inside.  Anyone attempt to just "glue" the ends part?

MSA $61.  ouch.

 

[240zadmire]

9 hours ago, EuroDat said:

I know of two Zed door seal manufactures, Vintage rubber and Pacific Rim. The seals made by Vintage rubber are far superior than those from Pacific Rim.

Who sells what, I don't remember. I used the Kia sportage seals and find them very good. Compression is about 25% which is reccomended for a good seals without deforming the window frame. You will need to cut and glue the seal at the top rear of the window section.

The Kia seal will work on the rear hatch, but it is a different profile and has about 40% compression which makes the lid harder to close. No cutting required.

I purchased 3 from Kia in South Korea for $37,50 ($12,50 ea) and $8,50 shipping.

 

say, if the compression is what we're looking for, can we run a vacuum hose in inside to achieve the "hardness"?

got to experience it.

[heyitsrama]

13 minutes ago, 240zadmire said:

https://zcardepot.com/collections/weatherstripping/products/quarter-window-rubber-vertical-seal-260z-280z?_pos=1&_sid=07efb0f87&_ss=r

 

 

this piece is quite pricey.  Sort of molding the rubber with the metal inside.  Anyone attempt to just "glue" the ends part?

MSA $61.  ouch.

 

I’m not sure what you mean by glue the end parts. But I ordered the precision ones from MSA they needed some massaging to install, but seal nicely.

better than the cheap 10 dollar ones they have, I’m not sure how those really sealed anything. 

 

[240zadmire]

That piece, by look at the diagram is to complete the #2 seal.

 

of course #1 is the metal piece a long with 2 screws to help tighten the housing of the glass. The ends rubber on top and bottom are to fill in the gaps I suppose.  What I meant is to have a sheet of rubber between the metal bar and the housing. It should give same functionality/intended. ? No?

[heyitsrama]

That might work, there is also a section of the rubber that acts like a seal to the elements, I think if you get it thick enough you can achieve this function. 

Edit:

I used

• 1120A333 25ft

To do the door seals, I ordered this from McMaster-Carr

 

Edited August 28, 2020 by heyitsrama

[240zadmire]

Hi everyone,

 

got the kit made by Precision.

there are many ways to install the kit to windshield and quarters.

I like to share how I open the housing for the quarter and how I installed windshield and trim.  Hope you find it useful and don’t repeat if you see I did it wrong.

the quarter housing is pretty self explain.  However, after 40+ years, or rubber hardening and make it a bit hard to open.  Precision YouTube clip shows show to open it as well.  I had to use a flat screw and gently tap on the L bracket to loosen it up.  I don’t want to spread the housing as I afraid i would widen the chrome.  

 

the new rubber seem to be slightly thinner and not exactly identical to the old one.  The over all structure is the same.  The flapper toward to inside is missing from the original.  It creates a gap between the quarter housing and the chassis. That can be filled in with a thin strip foam.  No big deal.

 

For the windshield.  I use the trimmer line I had instead of robe.  Whatever available in the garage.... seem to work well for me.

remove the vent guard on the dashboard for easy access and allow the windshield rubber to drop in.

Line up the windshield as best as you can before pulling the trimmer line.  Press the windshield down gently but not too hard to allow the lip to bite the chassis as you pull the trimmer line.  I did all by myself so take your time.  Once the windshield is in, try to adjust the 4 corners to fill in the gap.  What I did before drop the windshield in is to push the rubber to the corners as much as possible. This will allow you to fill in the gap easier if any.

 

The windshield is easy part.  The trim on top on the windshield is tough.  I’m sure there is a tool for it.  What I did was using the same principle when install the windshield.  I used the wire I instead of the trimmer line. I have 28 gauge wire but it’s too thin.  I double it.  But perhaps a 24 or even 22 gauge wire is better.....

tie one end to the wiper, or whatever.  Position/slide the shim to one side.  Push down the shim, not too hard, and pull the wire up slowly.  Be generous with the soap to allow the wire lift up the rubber. Carefully not to cut the rubber with the wire... take your time and you’ll get it in nicely.

stay tune for doors and hatch next 

regards

 

[dutchzcarguy]

I'm not sure.. but did you first install the glass with rubber, and then the trim? i had to install the rear window of a 280zx and i installed first the trim IN the rubber (which was on the glass) and then put the whole window with rubber and trim IN the rear door..

Installing the strips of stainless in the rubber is very difficult after fitting it in the car , much easier to install rubber on glass and fit the stainless in the rubber (with lots of lube) and then put it in the car.

(The rear glass stainless of a 280zx is edged and impossible to fit after you fitted the glass(and rubber).  I can imagine that the trim can be fitted in a 240z front screen but installing it before you put it in the car is much easier.

Edited August 30, 2020 by dutchzcarguy

[grannyknot]

@240zadmire, It is much easier to mount the SS trim in the windshield/rubber seal before installing on to the car.  You took the harder route but it came out nicely, I love the colour!

Even though I have Kia seals on my Z and they work great I installed a complete Precision weatherstrip kit last winter on a 280z and everything seals perfectly including the doors, I think Precision has fixed the problem with their door seals but the message hasn't got out yet.

[carcrazyken]

Where did you purchase the Precision kit? Thanks Ken