(1972 240z)

Hi all, 

I removed my distributor for inspection and cleaning.  I did not disassemble beyond removing cap rotor and points.  My question.  What is the procedure for reinstalling?  How do I make sure that the firing cylinder is synchronized with the cap/rotor?  How do I ensure that I'm not installing the distributor 180 degrees off?  Do I need to make sure that the cylinder is on the Compression stroke?  If so, what's the best practice for doing so?   

Detailed procedures much appreciated.  I'll report back with results and credit to contributors....Thanks!!!!

Jughead

Oh, SO many detailed threads, but if you haven't changed the engine position at all, you should just be able to stick it back on and bolt it down.

The only adjustment needed will be the timing after you drop it back in.  Use a light to set it correctly if you didn't mark the position.  There are two lines on the pedestal and the distributor that you can line up to get it close enough to start the engine.

You can't install it 180 off, the end of the shaft only fits the drive spindle one way.  Eyeball it and you'll see.

I'm now in this same boat, it appears.  The reason is that I need to have room to work straight-on to get out a broken off bolt.  The left one that holds the thermostat housing to the engine block.  😞

I really need to be able to get in that space where the distributor is now.  But, am afraid of screwing up something I'm not mechanically equipped to easily fix if I get the timing off somehow.  As long as I put the distributor back in exactly as the positions are now, we good?

Use a Sharpie or a scribe or some whiteout and mark the rotating plate and the pedestal.  Match the marks when you reinstall it and your timing should be the same as when you removed it.  There are actually two marks already on the parts, probably for the factory assembly, so you could take a picture and match the picture if you want to clean things up and lose the marks you made yourself.  Some of them have marks that show advance and retard also, I think.

The distributor can only install on the drive spindle one way.  There's no "180 off" with the L engines.  Pull it out, do your work, put it back and match the marks.

If you take it off at the pedestal (two bolts) then you don't even need to mark it - it can only go back on in one position, the position it came off. 

4 hours ago, Dadsun said:

 The reason is that I need to have room to work straight-on to get out a broken off bolt.  The left one that holds the thermostat housing to the engine block.  😞

If it's the typical break, half of it is still in the thermostat housing.  You want to get the housing just broken free of the mounting surface without breaking the bolt stub off at the head.  Then twist the housing back and forth and wiggle it and let the rust dust trickle out.  Once you wiggle/work the housing off the bolt stub, the stub will probably twist out by hand.

Wound up having to drill out the broken bolt. It has probably been in there decades and was fused in.  Had to tap a 3/8" fine thread into the old hole. Key there is to get the same angle so that the thermostat housing sits flush.  New thermostat housing should arrive today or Monday, so fingers crossed.

When you put things back together use this stuff. No more fused in threads. I use it on eveything, pretty much everything.

 

And be careful on the length of those housing bolts.  At least one of them is right behind the timing chain guide.  People have pushed the guide in to the chain with a bolt that was too long.

Edited December 18, 20204 yr by Zed Head

I was wondering what that was behind the left bolt hole. At first I thought it was a coolant jacket around the engine or something. Here is a pic. I went into it slightly when drilling, but not when tapping threads. Hopefully it's still in the right position. 

So you used a 3/8" tap on a Japanese car??