73 240z restoration 904 White

[DC871F]

Are these welds happy? I'm getting penetration, but sometimes it doesnt want to fill in the seem, meaning the spot weld builds up right up to the edge of the seem and it takes 2 or 3 times to get it to jump the gap.

How about a grinder that fits into the convex curve of the door jamb? Anything has to be better than my angle grinder trying to get in there.

[heyitsrama]

I really like this one, I used it a lot when I was working on my hatch striker panel. 
 

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-sanders/portable-belt-sanders/53-amp-12-in-heavy-duty-bandfile-belt-sander-62863.html

Make sure to grab some good belts, I’m not sure about the quality difference between brands, some people say it makes a difference.

If you have some spare coupons of scrap metal, try adjusting the wire speed to be faster, you might be able to get the weld to be flatter. (too fast and it’s going to blow through)

Check this guy out: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1AiDqIHP5Po

[Patcon]

I have an assortment of die grinders with different bits. a cut off wheel can help knock welds down. 1" roloks work good but wear out fast. I also have an assortment of rasp bits for die grinders that work good too

[DC871F]

13 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

I really like this one, I used it a lot when I was working on my hatch striker panel. 
 

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-sanders/portable-belt-sanders/53-amp-12-in-heavy-duty-bandfile-belt-sander-62863.html

Make sure to grab some good belts, I’m not sure about the quality difference between brands, some people say it makes a difference.

If you have some spare coupons of scrap metal, try adjusting the wire speed to be faster, you might be able to get the weld to be flatter. (too fast and it’s going to blow through)

Check this guy out: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1AiDqIHP5Po

I just learned a bunch from that video, thank you!

I just returned a HF angle grinder, it lasted 3 days, got a DeWalt and its pretty nice. With that said, I'm now suspect of some HF tools, which I know is no surprise for a lot of HF stuff.  Are you getting a lot of use from that band file? THeres a pnuematic one here at the local tool supply for $120, not sure I'm going for that.

Thanks.

[DC871F]

Just a couple small items. Got rid of most the tar board from the tunnel, assessed the seat rail mounts and decided to go with new rail mounts from KlassicFab. I'm going to cut the floors soon, install ZF  floor pans and rails.

Edited September 20, 2020 by DC871F

[heyitsrama]

I really liked the ability of the finger (band) file in tight hard to reach sections, I have mixed variety of power tools, I pick up the HF 4.5" grinder more than the Makita one that I have, and I've yet to break a tool. One thing has changed with HF tools is their brushes are no longer replaceable, that i think will move me out to another brand. I've replaced the brushes several times in both the disk cutter and the metal chop saw.

Dewalt is nice, I started using Milwaukee m18 and m12 tools, id like to keep the battery system the same (Milwaukee tools can adapt dewalt batteries to their body w/ and adapter)

$120 seems like a lot for a band file ( id think that money would be nicely spent on another grinder so you dont have to change the wheels)

Perhaps a garage sale might be a good spot to find a discounted one. Because your working with the car in the garage and have clearance under the car, i think you could get away with out having one.

Its nice that someone makes the seat rail mounts, I had make the front one, it was pretty complex.

Is the plan to remove the spotwelds? Lisle 51900 Spot Weld Chisel is a nice beater, better than dads old craftsman flat. ?

[DC871F]

8 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

I really liked the ability of the finger (band) file in tight hard to reach sections, I have mixed variety of power tools, I pick up the HF 4.5" grinder more than the Makita one that I have, and I've yet to break a tool. One thing has changed with HF tools is their brushes are no longer replaceable, that i think will move me out to another brand. I've replaced the brushes several times in both the disk cutter and the metal chop saw.

 

 

 

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Dewalt is nice, I started using Milwaukee m18 and m12 tools, id like to keep the battery system the same (Milwaukee tools can adapt dewalt batteries to their body w/ and adapter)

 

 

$120 seems like a lot for a band file ( id think that money would be nicely spent on another grinder so you dont have to change the wheels)

Perhaps a garage sale might be a good spot to find a discounted one. Because your working with the car in the garage and have clearance under the car, i think you could get away with out having one.

Its nice that someone makes the seat rail mounts, I had make the front one, it was pretty complex.

Is the plan to remove the spotwelds? Lisle 51900 Spot Weld Chisel is a nice beater, better than dads old craftsman flat. ?

I'm replacing both floor pans, so I'm going to cut them out with the floors.

I like that spot weld chisel, never seen that before. If I can learn something everyday, I deem that a success.

I'm going to pick up a band file probably today. I have a lot to learn. I've been looking at my 240 for almost 2 years sitting on the rotisserie after disassembly not sure wear to start. My wife told me to order rails and pans for my birthday and I went head first. It was a steep climb up the hill on the tools I was lacking.

Edited September 21, 2020 by DC871F

[heyitsrama]

I usually get in that spot too, just staring at the car not knowing where to go. I even bought a whole other chassis and started working on that because it did not need AS much repair. (Probably was a good idea learned a lot)

60% of the time I just grab a tool and start doing something, and it gets the creativity flowing. 

How’s the hatch striker panel? the one above the tail lights. 

[DC871F]

Progress today. Passenger floor removed, still a little left. Also received Klassicfab seat mounts.

Rear floor where it attaches to the frame before it makes the upturn is really clean. My plan is to use this to plug weld my ZF floors to.

Where pans meet against sills are alsovery clean, so far I'm lucking out. Drill the spot welds and attach new ones. Never done this before, hopefully they go it clean.

Frame rail just forward of the toe board is swiss chees. I have forward rails I got from Charlie, but do not have the parts that weld up to tension rod mount. A little scratch building perhaps.

Inboard side on the tunnel is clean except one piece thatr goes up about 2 inches from the upturn. Going to patch that in when the floors are installed.

Edited September 25, 2020 by DC871F

[DC871F]

I have a question for you guys who have done frame rail work before.

I am replacing my floor pans, and pan rails, I also need to replace the bottom part of the rails that mounts in just aft of the tension rod mount. I'm also replacing the front frame rails as well. I will be doing this obviously one side at a time.

Here is the question. Is there a specific method to this? Meaning, should I put the pans in, then replace the rear part of the frame rails aft of the tension rod mount first, then do the front rails?

Is there anytime where you risk bending the front geometry of the car if you just remove all of this at once and start replacing? No where have I seen on any build threads where any added bracing was welded in to prevent warping the front. of the car.

Thanks.

[rturbo 930]

How bad are your front frame rails? Unless they're really damaged, I'd leave them alone, or just fix them in spots. It's a large job. If they're only rotted in the usual spots, then I'd just repair those spots.

When removing major structural components of the car, like the engine bay rails, or the rockers, it's generally a good idea to add bracing to keep things in place. 

[DC871F]

10 hours ago, rturbo 930 said:

How bad are your front frame rails? Unless they're really damaged, I'd leave them alone, or just fix them in spots. It's a large job. If they're only rotted in the usual spots, then I'd just repair those spots.

When removing major structural components of the car, like the engine bay rails, or the rockers, it's generally a good idea to add bracing to keep things in place. 

They are mostly intact as far as I can tell from the outside, but looking in where I cut off the pan rail forward its very crunchy in there when I shine the light. If I just cut and paste sections but miss rust, I'm concerned that the restoration on this magnitude will be in vain if I have to go back in  later on. I'll evaluate when I can get a bigger picture inside the rails.