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Just Another Damned Z Car Project Thread


conedodger

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The dimensions you posted earlier were wider which is odd. Thought the 240 boosters were smaller in size. One other thought. The 15/16 booster sold by Cardone on Amazon is New and not rebuilt. Read a lot of reviews on other sites when combined with the ZX booster the pedal feels more like stock where the wilwood was a much harder pedal. Just a thought here’s a pic of what I purchased. $65. Not trying to persuade you by any means. Just a few options out there. Curious to what you find when you get home.CF601528-D6CD-45BA-9CB6-409175A6BFC3.png

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Another piece of the puzzle arrived... 

BTW Yarb, I had already ordered this before you posted the above. Kind of weird though, I got it from Silvermine Motors and it came with no invoice for the actual transaction but there were two garbage invoices along with other garbage used to pack the MC in the box. 

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Edited by conedodger
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It seems like I have my Master vac problem solved. I found one on EBay and Terrapin found one for me at a Pick and Pull. I'll send both to Power Brake Rebuilder and hopefully get one good one out of it. 

I have to wait to start putting the brake lines in as the master cylinder is the starting point. I'm so impatient! 

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5 hours ago, conedodger said:

It seems like I have my Master vac problem solved. I found one on EBay and Terrapin found one for me at a Pick and Pull. I'll send both to Power Brake Rebuilder and hopefully get one good one out of it. 

I have to wait to start putting the brake lines in as the master cylinder is the starting point. I'm so impatient! 

I wasn't sure what you were talking about when you said make one out of two, but there it is. I'll have this one out tomorrow, should only be a couple of days to get to you. 

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So, I've finalized the design for the throttle body spacer in my mind. It will be about 40mm thick with a bore big enough for the throttle plate (@70mm). It will be drilled for the 60mm square bolt pattern used to attach the stock throttle body to the inlet and countersunk so that the eThrottle body can mount flush. It will then be drilled and tapped so that the eThrottle body can bolt on. The eThrottle body will be clocked at 45 degrees so that the plug to the eThrottle body is down and right as you look at the front of the car. This is an important consideration as the bolt up pattern for the eThrottle body is not square. Kind of like i'm holding it in the picture below.

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That sounds like it will work fine. Remember to keep the main bore concentric with the hole in the intake manifold. Only bringing that up because the holes in the new throttle body aren't in a square pattern. Make sure you get the center holes lined up and let the mounting holes fall where they fall.

Also, you're changing the diameter along the way... Are you tapering the bore hole in the adapter to account for the change in diameters? I don't think you want big step changes in diameter.

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13 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

That sounds like it will work fine. Remember to keep the main bore concentric with the hole in the intake manifold. Only bringing that up because the holes in the new throttle body aren't in a square pattern. Make sure you get the center holes lined up and let the mounting holes fall where they fall.

Also, you're changing the diameter along the way... Are you tapering the bore hole in the adapter to account for the change in diameters? I don't think you want big step changes in diameter.

I know little of aerodynamic theory, though I am a pilot and a very small part of my career involved ‘considering’ the flow of air through tubes. Specifically endotracheal tubes. Most of what I’ve read about the spacers that are marketed out there involve breaking up laminar flow. They don’t expressly say that, but rather describe it. I highly suspect the marketers are not citing science on the spacers though. I am working with experts is all I can say right now. I will be keeping the concentrics of all three bores. 

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Many good things come from a drawing on a napkin. Though in this day and age, that napkin might be a program. I am working on learning Sketchup but my son uses something more sophisticated. Still, since I'm only learning Sketchup, I had to draw things out on a napkin so-to-speak. Before you laugh, Heinrich Nordoff and Dr. Porsche who were brothers-in-law and the Directors of Porsche and VW respectively, drew up plans for the production of the joint effort 914 at breakfast on a napkin. A real napkin! Sadly, Nordoff got sick and died and the new director of VW didn't recognize the agreement which ultimately made the VW/Porsche 914 too expensive and doomed it's production to 2/3 years for the 914-6 and 6/7 years for the 914-4. 

Here is how I'm communicating with my architect son. Don't laugh. There was no attempt on my part at scale! 

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Heck no! I'm not poo-pooing a napkin sketch at all. I'd be SOL if it weren't for drawings like that!   Haha!

My question about the bore sizes goes like this... On your sketch, it's 70mm on the front side if your adapter. But what is the size of the hole on the manifold size (not shown on the napkin sketch)? If it's straight through 70mm, then you're going to have a step change in diameter when you hit the 50mm-ish hole at the inlet side of the manifold. You could probably open up the hole in the manifold some with a grinding burr, but I'm not sure you'd be able to get it all the way out to 70mm.

That's what I meant by tapering the hole from 70 down to 50ish.

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And thinking about it some more and looking at your ruler measurements on the bolt holes for the new throttle body... I'm not sure there's going to be enough meat with a 100mm outside diameter for the adapter if you need to keep the center bores concentric. Maybe your architect to watch for that when he draws it up in CAD?

 

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