Just Another Damned Z Car Project Thread

[conedodger]

So, this is being CNC'd today. Hope it works! Fingers crossed!

[Yarb]

Prrfect time to make a couple of extras!!!!

 

[conedodger]

5 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Prrfect time to make a couple of extras!!!!

 

Not sure I can. Instead of having my friend Larry make it at the SpaceX machine shop, this prototype is being made at the UNR Technology Lab by my son. He is actually a UNLV student but because of Covid, he has access to the lab up here. We were actually going to make the first one out of wood or plastic but opted for aluminum CNC as it just might work!

I will open source the drawings so others can do this as well. DBW is the shizit!

Edited December 17, 2020 by conedodger

[Yarb]

ProtoType!!!!

[Captain Obvious]

Well I'm sure I'm just becoming a PITA at this point, but I got some questions about your adapter...

First, why the two different sized holes? And if the answer is "the larger holes are clearance pass-thru holes for the screws into the intake manifold and the smaller holes are going to be threaded to accept bolts to hold the new throttle body", then there's a problem... You have the holes swapped.

The holes on the smaller circle should be the pass-thru clearance holes and the ones on the larger bolt circle should be threaded.

Other question is I don't see the countersinks for the heads of the screws to attach to the intake manifold. Are you just going to put those in manually after it comes out of the CNC? Same with the threads for the other holes?

Sorry for being a pain! 

[conedodger]

No prototypes were injured by the drilling of holes. That will be done later when I’m sure what eTB I’m using. You sir, are not a pain. 

[Captain Obvious]

Good. And since I'm not a pain, maybe I just need to try a little harder. 

So using my (admittedly incomplete) understanding, here's a reality check of what the adapter could look like. 130mm OD and 70mm ID. I tossed in some countersinks too and it highlighted a potential issue. With a 70mm ID, there might not be enough meat for the countersinks. If that's the case, you might have to resort to a counterbore instead.

In any event, here's what I whipped up:

[conedodger]

Hey, sorry to disappear like that. I had work Friday and Saturday, my retirement work week. Plus, I have a vulnerable family member with Covid19 and I get 4-5 calls a day asking about symptoms and treatments. He is my son-in-laws father. Fingers crossed. 

So my son did a rework which I haven't seen. I suspect it was to properly position the holes. He says that he just put visual holes in the drawing for now. He doesn't want the holes put in until I decide I'm using the 350Z DBW for sure. I guess, I'm driving him nuts. I told him it's payback for having to go through his adolescence with him... 

[conedodger]

@SteveJ I might need more beer... I've been trying to find LED headlight bulbs for my H4 housings that have been on there for decades. My buddy who owns 914rubber.com sells a pair of LED bulbs for the H4 housings but they are $120 for the pair. That might be a very good deal but I started to question that when I was purchasing the Superbright LED set for my Z, they have H4 bulbs as cheap as $9.95 a pair! (which are installed and brilliant! Pun intended.) Do you have a recommendation? 😎

Edited December 21, 2020 by conedodger

[SteveJ]

I purchased a set of these, but I have not installed/tested them, yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH

[SteveJ]

By the way, if you haven't already installed relays for your headlight circuit, you will need to do that for LED bulbs. You need two positive and one negative wires for LEDs, whereas stock wiring is one positive and two negative.

[conedodger]

2 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

By the way, if you haven't already installed relays for your headlight circuit, you will need to do that for LED bulbs. You need two positive and one negative wires for LEDs, whereas stock wiring is one positive and two negative.

Well, fess up! Which relays did you choose! LOL!!!