240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Georgia

[dutchzcarguy]

Clarkson: Farming??  How hard can it be?

Hammond: DON'T say that !!  🤣

 

hahaha, at 12-15 years old i got my own vegetable garden, Also drove a tractor with more than one 4 wheeled cart and plowed strait lines and used a subsoiler and also a disk harrow, cultivator and cutter bar.. so i know how difficult it is to be a farmer..

[240ZBUILTBYME]

Managed to remove the rear valance panel! Great Success!  

Used a combination of methods. These are the first spot welds I’ve ever removed so wanted to try them all. Used the rotabroach cutter style, the specialty drill bit type and the finger file sander. 

This is what my experience was with each:

Rota broach/cutter type

I used this specific set so not the el cheapo type off eBay. I found these difficult to use, they don’t work well on plug welds which I had a few of. they like to walk on uneven surfaces. But if your panel is flat and they are factory spot welds these do ok. You must use a center punch 

the specialty drill bit type 

this worked really well and I preferred them to the cutter style. Cut quickly and don’t mind uneven surfaces, don’t walk on you either. best on factory spot welds, they didn’t do well on the plug welds due to the small diameter. Must use a center punch too

the finger file sander

Bought this specific one from bunnings 60$, wanted a cheap one to try out to see if it would be worth the money buying a more expensive air one once I get my compressor. And it is great for grinding out spot welds! Catch is it will leave massive square holes in the top panel, but if you’re not reusing the top panel this is a great option. It’s very quick, I was using 40grit, easy to see when you have ground enough of the spot weld away, leaves the bottom panel in perfect condition. This one did the job but lacked a bit of power, occasionally stopped turning if you put too much pressure on but made up for it with its light weight. 

Had to remove the clips that hold the.... I’ve had a mental blank.... rear dress up panels that go around the tail lights. As I will be using the whole of the repair panel which will require a cut along the top edge where those clips sit. 

As expected it’s rather rusty in the box section behind, some rust has made it all the way through. 

comparison of stock valance vs Auto panel solutions repair panel. High quality product.

RHS looks like it has a minor nudge. Some rudimentary measurements show it’s out by 3-4mm. Not too bad. I’m thinking a big hammer can’t fix

First mock up of the panel. Need to buy more vice grips for convincing it into position.

next up I plan to:

- convince the panel into position then test fit the automobile rear bumper to make sure there are no dramas there

- mark and cut top edge where new panel will end up 

- clean up the box section, carry out repairs on the rust holes 

- kbs rust blast then kbs rust seal the internal box section

[CanTechZ]

Looking good, great to see the progress you are making.

Cheers, Mike

[Racer X]

3 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

 

Had to remove the clips that hold the.... I’ve had a mental blank.... rear dress up panels that go around the tail lights. As I will be using the whole of the repair panel which will require a cut along the top edge where those clips sit. 

I call it the taillight finisher.

[Patcon]

That sub frame piece is supposed to be pretty thick. i'm not sure it will move the way you want with a large hammer. I had to use frame clamps and a come-a-long.

I like a 1/4" grinding bur in a die grinder for spot welds. Fast and easy and the top panel can be reused if need be. It does make a lot of metal splinters though...

[240ZBUILTBYME]

5 hours ago, Patcon said:

That sub frame piece is supposed to be pretty thick. i'm not sure it will move the way you want with a large hammer. I had to use frame clamps and a come-a-long.

I like a 1/4" grinding bur in a die grinder for spot welds. Fast and easy and the top panel can be reused if need be. It does make a lot of metal splinters though...

I need to have another look and do more measurements but you’re probably right re the hammer. The rear sub frame looks in good shape though, have to try and work out where the 3-4mm went.

you know I’ve always thought that a die grinder would work well but I’ve never seen anyone use them online. It’s on my list of tools to buy and methods to try

 

 

[grannyknot]

9 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

I used this specific set so not the el cheapo type off eBay. I found these difficult to use, they don’t work well on plug welds which I had a few of. they like to walk on uneven surfaces.

The trick to that kit is to pre drill the spot weld with a 1/8" drill then the cutter stays on track.

[Patcon]

I have a drawer full of die grinders,  maybe 6 or 7. Cut off wheel, 2" roloks, 1" rolok, 3 or four different burrs, steel brush. They're so maneuverable and fast. Just noisy...

[dutchzcarguy]

23 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

kbs rust blast then kbs rust seal the internal box section

Use some paint that you can weld on between the sheets of metal , i don't know the name of it but i have some silvery paint that you can weld on, ask a good weldshop for it. (i could look for the name but you got there in australia another brand i think..)

[240ZBUILTBYME]

41 minutes ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Use some paint that you can weld on between the sheets of metal , i don't know the name of it but i have some silvery paint that you can weld on, ask a good weldshop for it. (i could look for the name but you got there in australia another brand i think..)

Yep, weld through primer. I’m using copper, upol brand. 

[240ZBUILTBYME]

14 hours ago, grannyknot said:

The trick to that kit is to pre drill the spot weld with a 1/8" drill then the cutter stays on track.

Yep, the kit has a sprung drill bit in the center, I center punched then drilled a pilot hole with the sprung drill bit, once it was deep enough I put enough pressure to contact the actual cutter, still walked around. I just found the standard drill but type didn’t walk and then you don’t have to grind down any little circles after either. Just my experience with it. 

[240ZBUILTBYME]

13 hours ago, Patcon said:

I have a drawer full of die grinders,  maybe 6 or 7. Cut off wheel, 2" roloks, 1" rolok, 3 or four different burrs, steel brush. They're so maneuverable and fast. Just noisy...

What shape burrs do you use for spot welds?