78 280z rust protection

[User0945]

I bought a 280z to restore,but lack knowledge on how to do the paint and protect the Z from rust. I'm starting with both the front fenders on that condition. My idea was to sand until bare metal and prime it for the time being. Although im not sure of correct way to do it taking whatever is on there is being and im considering paint stripper although i don't know what layers are on there. What would be the best way to do it? 

Edited September 12, 2020 by User0945

[grannyknot]

Welcome to the forum,  so you're starting off with the fenders but I assume eventually you will want to do the whole car?  If yes, then have a look at this forum, https://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=f044bf1f351a02abe241234902095df9

So much good info on there and active pro painters that will answer questions.  Chemical stripper works well if it is the real stuff, not the Dolphin friendly stuff,  it is extremely toxic  and there is always the danger of some of it getting into the seams and ruining the new paint job.  A paint stripper heat gun works well as does a power sander, if the fenders will sit in primer for a while then make sure you use 2 part epoxy primer.  For small jobs like the fenders you could use the 2k rattle can version, it is quite expensive for the amount you get but you can't get any more convenient. 

Applying 2k epoxy primer, paint, clear coat with a proper spray gun requires a large outlay of cash for decent equipment and the learning curve is steep.

Take your fenders down to bare metal, 50-80 grit, the primer needs a rough surface to grab onto then clean the metal with detergent until a white cotton cloth comes away clean then do the same thing with thinners then again with one of the "final wipe" products.  Two coats of 2k epoxy primmer will seal the metal so rust doesn't start again.

Edited September 12, 2020 by grannyknot

[User0945]

23 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Welcome to the forum,  so you're starting off with the fenders but I assume eventually you will want to do the whole car?  If yes, then have a look at this forum, https://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=f044bf1f351a02abe241234902095df9

So much good info on there and active pro painters that will answer questions.  Chemical stripper works well if it is the real stuff, not the Dolphin friendly stuff,  it is extremely toxic  and there is always the danger of some of it getting into the seams and ruining the new paint job.  A paint stripper heat gun works well as does a power sander, if the fenders will sit in primer for a while then make sure you use 2 part epoxy primer.  For small jobs like the fenders you could use the 2k rattle can version, it is quite expensive for the amount you get but you can't get any more convenient. 

Applying 2k epoxy primer, paint, clear coat with a proper spray gun requires a large outlay of cash for decent equipment and the learning curve is steep.

Take your fenders down to bare metal, 50-80 grit, the primer needs a rough surface to grab onto then clean the metal with detergent until a white cotton cloth comes away clean then do the same thing with thinners then again with one of the "final wipe" products.  Two coats of 2k epoxy primmer will seal the metal so rust doesn't start again.

thanks for the help, 50-80grit worked wonders with it, i just want the coat for a few months, can i get away with a cheap 1$ per can one? i plan to do it again when is time to actually paint completely the car. The forum you directed is impressive, i will asks more questions there, thanks.

[grannyknot]

1 hour ago, User0945 said:

thanks for the help, 50-80grit worked wonders with it, i just want the coat for a few months, can i get away with a cheap 1$ per can one? i plan to do it again when is time to actually paint completely the car. The forum you directed is impressive, i will asks more questions there, thanks.

Cheap rattle can primer isn't water proof so you might find rust under it when the time comes, it might be better to take the fenders inside your house and tuck them in a corner and save yourself some work.

As for autobody101 just make sure you have read all the stickies and have searched your question before posting.  Informed questions from newbies are what the forum is all about but questions like "How you I paint my car?" will go unanswered.

But hey, don't abandon us, we want to see your progress too, there are some very good painters on this forum with lots of experience that can help.

[User0945]

3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Cheap rattle can primer isn't water proof so you might find rust under it when the time comes, it might be better to take the fenders inside your house and tuck them in a corner and save yourself some work.

As for autobody101 just make sure you have read all the stickies and have searched your question before posting.  Informed questions from newbies are what the forum is all about but questions like "How you I paint my car?" will go unanswered.

But hey, don't abandon us, we want to see your progress too, there are some very good painters on this forum with lots of experience that can help.

Sure, as for now the car is a rolling shell without engine transmission and many other things missing, sadly i cant put the car indoors for a while so im doing my best for it not to rust. I was going to buy the Homeshades primer, but since you told me that i might just use the cans i already have for the interior. What primer do you recommend, i dont know how to differentiate between waterproof or not.

[grannyknot]

This is a good brand, https://www.spraymax.com/en-us/products/product/primer-primer-filler/2k-epoxy-primer-1/

[User0945]

If i do the primer now with a good brand and in a few months i want to paint, will the prime need to be redone again from bare metal or i can get away with just sanding this one. If im going to do it expensive i rather do it good the first time, do i need to protect the primer in any way?

[Patcon]

If you use a good epoxy primer it can sit a long time before top coating. It will need to be scuffed before top coating but the epoxy will not have to be removed. Epoxy is the best choice but you need the proper safety equipment to spray it.

[Racer X]

When refinishing bare metal after cleaning up rust, I use a metal etching primer, followed by high solids/high build primer. 
 

Usually I continue to work the panels, doing any dent repairs and body filler, followed by a two part epoxy sealer, then topcoat with the final finish.

 

It isn’t a good idea to go to all the trouble of cleaning up rust, and then leave the metal exposed. Primers are  porous, and do little, if anything, to prevent the rust from coming back.

Planning is an important part of body and paint work.

Edited October 21, 2020 by Racer X