Hah no problem I got the gist. Paltech’s plating work is really really nice. I’m just hoping I can get them to run as good as they look. 
 

I pulled the top off the front bowl and now I’d like to adjust the level but I’m a little confused. I think the “Just SU” video instructions only apply to his ball valve, so I’ve been following the instructions in Aaron Neubauer’s video (see below).

Following this process, my floats want to cut off air flow from my biological air compressor well before the .55” mark which would mean there should be less fuel in the bowl, not more right? Does this look like the right process to you all?

 

 

 

@Captain Obvious no idea what the needles are - they’re whatever Jeff put in when he rebuilt them.  The part number is written on the fat end of the needle right? Do I need to pull them out of the piston to read them?

3 minutes ago, rcv said:

@Captain Obvious no idea what the needles are - they’re whatever Jeff put in when he rebuilt them.  The part number is written on the fat end of the needle right? Do I need to pull them out of the piston to read them?

Paltec should have taken care of this. May need to look but not right away in my opinion 

I’ve got both float bowls opened up and at first glance it’s obvious they have very different fuel levels in them:

 

Using my “blow on it until the valve cuts off” method I’m measuring the front level at 0.7” and the rear at 0.4” from the top of the float to the bottom of the bowl lid.  This is consistent with the levels in the bowls at least, and I’m hoping this is a big part of my problem. It’s still very weird to me that the front carb wanted to go leaner too, but maybe it was sucking extra fuel through the balance tube?  

Can anyone confirm that my measurement method seems reasonable? If so I’ll get them adjusted and try to start her up again tomorrow morning  

 

 

 

 

Edited October 11, 20204 yr by rcv

14 minutes ago, rcv said:

@Captain Obvious no idea what the needles are - they’re whatever Jeff put in when he rebuilt them.  The part number is written on the fat end of the needle right? Do I need to pull them out of the piston to read them?

Yes, the part number is written on the fat end of the needle, and yes you need to pull them out to read them.

That said, however... I wasn't thinking you needed to go out and pull the needles right away. I was thinking more along the lines of looking at the literature that came with the carbs from the company that rebuilt them and seeing if there was a listing on there of what needle they used. Failing that, a phone call to the co. would be my next idea.

As far as the installation depth goes, you ought to be able to see needle by looking down into the carb throat. Might need a little right angle inspection mirror to see deep enough, but you ought to be able to see if the needles are installed to the proper depth without too much muss/fuss. And if you can't get a good view of them that way, all you have to do is pull the suction cover off and pull the piston out of the carb for a look. Worst thing that would happen is you might have to replace some damper oil if you spill it.

I’ll give Paltech a call early next week if I can’t get things solved by then. I checked his website and there’s no mention of what he uses, and I don’t think he sent me any literature along with the carbs. 
 

Here’s some pictures looking down one carb throat if it helps. A little hard to focus, but I can try to borrow a mirror if you think clearer shots would help  

Good pics. I can't tell if the needle depths are spot from just pics, but they look good to me. The typical mistake is that they are installed with no shoulder visible and you do not have that issue. They're at least close, so that's good.

As for which needle it is, I think it's worth a phone call. Many people replace the original N-27s with SM needles. Some people end up with great results doing that and others end up running rich with the SMs.

 The major concern at this time is the float levels. I'd work on that first. The needle installation looks OK.

3 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

The major concern at this time is the float levels. I'd work on that first.

Yup that’s today’s task. The FSM recommends turning the float and lid upside down on the work bench and just eyeballing when the “lever seat contacts the valve stem” and getting that to happen when the top of the float is 0.55” from the bowl lid.  The video I linked above instead recommends blowing through the fuel inlet and setting the float so that airflow stops at 0.55”.  Unfortunately there’s a lot of variability between these methods, and even the “blow” test differs quite a bit depending on whether I start with the float up or down. 

For example, measuring the current float height on my rear carb (after adjustment via FSM method) gives me:

FSM Method: 0.552”

Blow Method (while lowering float): 0.617”

Blow Method (while raising float): 0.498”

 

 

If you have the newer style needle valves they wont support the float. The blow in right side up and raising the float until air stops is the best way I found to adjust the tang.

Or if you want to go full blown you could do what I did but it was in the dead of winter and I was bored as hell.

I just adjusted both via the FSM method and now the car won’t start at all. I pulled the float lids off and both bowls are bone dry. 😐  

I’m going to try the blow method next and see if that gets me anywhere better.
 

@siteunseen I just read through your linked post, and I think I get it. You’re using an electric fuel pump to push fuel through the float while it sits on a glass. Then you just measure the fuel level in the glass when it stops, right? I’m I reading the FSM right when it says the fuel level should be 23mm from the roof of the lid? I don’t have an electric pump, but any reason it wouldn’t work if I pull off my mechanical pump and actuate it manually?