1975 280z 2+2 will not start

[iscnetwork]

I drove the car in the garage 2 years ago.
Yesterday with a new battery it would not start.

Turn the key and the solenoid will not kick in to turn over engine. (A screw driver works though to turn over the engine.)

There is no gas coming out of the fuel filter with key turned on.
There is no spark from coil or even voltage to coil.

I am guessing a relay, but I haven't a clue which relay is what and where is the one I need to look at.

Thanks to all in advance.

 

 

[SteveJ]

With the key in ON the fuel pump doesn't run unless the flap is open in the AFM. When measuring voltage at the coil, where did you put the probes? If you were touching the positive and negative terminals of the coil, you should see no voltage.

With the lack of solid information, we can only just guess. The primary guess for me is the ignition switch. That is the module behind the key where the wiring harness connects.

[Zed Head]

36 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

The primary guess for me is the ignition switch. That is the module behind the key where the wiring harness connects.

The Start wire runs directly from the switch to the starter, no relay.   So, no power at the solenoid would seem to be the switch.  There is a connection along the way though that could be loose or corroded. 

Although, I had a case where the female spade at the starter solenoid had lost electrical contact.  It was there, attached, but the metal bits weren't touching.  Crimped it tighter with a pair of pliers and was back in action.  Wiggle the yellow wire, pull it off and put it back on.

Thee should be power at the coil though, with the key on.  There are wring diagrams and service manuals in the Downloads area.

Is it an automatic?  Might be the neutral/park switch.

[iscnetwork]

I put the VOM leads, negative one to ground, then trying both terminals on the coil with the positive lead. 

4 speed in neutral.

AFM is?  sorry don't know the abbreviation. I was a body man, not a mechanic in my pass life.

I will try and get some space to get down to the starter and make sure nothing is dirty or loose.

thanks... still debugging.

 

[SteveJ]

No voltage at the solenoid and no voltage at the coil would probably indicate the switch. That is the common point for both of those circuits with the problem existing with the key in START and ON. Also check your fusible links for corrosion. You should have two in your car. They are located on a black block that may have a white cover (or yellowed with age) near the battery. There will be either white wires or white with red stripe wires going up to the bottom of the block.

AFM = Air Flow Meter

switch - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1975,280z,2.8l+l6,1209204,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700

 

[siteunseen]

New batteries aren't always fully charged. Try an overnight 2 amp charge. Can't hurt...

[Zed Head]

37 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

Also check your fusible links for corrosion. You should have two in your car. They are located on a black block that may have a white cover (or yellowed with age) near the battery. There will be either white wires or white with red stripe wires going up to the bottom of the block.

That's a good one.  Other signs would be - does the brake light in the dash come on when the key is turned on, do the lights work, do the accessories like the radio and heater fan work.

The screwdriver on the solenoid works because that's a direct to battery connection.

[iscnetwork]

44 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

New batteries aren't always fully charged. Try an overnight 2 amp charge. Can't hurt...

With a screw driver the engine turns over just fine.

[iscnetwork]

There is a red wire going from the battery post on the starter to a relay.  That relay has the other red wire going to the solenoid.  I am laying on the fender against the wall from the front so no room to see or work on anything.

I forgot all about this it has been MSD ignitioned at some time ago. But I didn't think that would have anything to do with the coil not running or fuel pump.

What could I do just to get this thing to run and out of the garage where I have room to work on this car?

 

 

 

Edited September 22, 2020 by iscnetwork
can't type or spell at my age

[Zed Head]

Read all of the things that have been recommended.  There a bunch you didn't even acknowledge.  Do those that you can do.  Come back with results.

You could hot wire the coil but without injector power it won't run.

It's probably a dirty fusible link connection like SteveJ said.  Common.

[iscnetwork]

I will get back to you. I will have to dig out a whole lot of car parts to even get a floor jack in there to get the right side away from the wall. 

[iscnetwork]

Fuseable links not that dirty, cleaned anyway they have continuity.  Still no good. 
Solenoid to relay wire was not that dirty, cleaned anyway.  I will attempt to pull that relay out tomorrow and make sure of its connections.

Pulling out ignition switch tomorrow after work if time allows.

Is the picture below valid for my 1975 I found in another thread?

I haven't seen it yet, where is the main ground for all stuff under they hood located? I want to make sure it is cleaned too.

(This Z has 5 times more wiring than my 240 did it seems.)

Thanks.