1975 280z 2+2 will not start

[iscnetwork]

Thanks much.

[iscnetwork]

I am only a one man show here.  I could not here any noise from the back when testing.

Note: the fuel pump was leaking when I parked the Z. 

Will the fuel pump show voltage with the ignition switch on but not all the way into the 'start' position?

tomorrow God willing, I will jack up the rear end and disconnect the fuel pump wiring and test it with a battery charger. Leave a jumper on the wiring to see if 12volts is getting to the fuel pump in start mode.

 

 

[Zed Head]

No, it only gets power at Start or when the AFM vane is open with the key on.

So the other way to test power to the pump is to turn the key on then open the vane in the AFM.  You can do that by removing the black cover on the side of the AFM and rotating the counterweight.  The black cover is a press fit, usually with a bit of sealant to hold it in place.  Just use your fingernails or a screwdriver and pry it straight off.  Then you can prop the AFM vane open and use your meter on the pump leads in the back or anywhere on the circuit.  Even at the fuel pump relay.

[iscnetwork]

 where is the relay? 

I might be able to get the VOM on it while I am 'starting' the car vs. taking apart another part of the car.

[zclocks]

I

 This is the way I  do it. 

1) jack up your car , pull you battery out of the car , place it as close to the rear of the car, and using wire with alligator clips on each end  connect the battery to the fuel pump.

No need to disconnect fuel pump wire. There are two connections on the pump, one is larger than the other. The larger connection is the (- or ground) and the other is the +12vdc. This method  just checks the pump operation.

2) The second method is open your rear hatch place your meter where you can read it from the drivers seat. Use jumper wire with alligator clips  and connect to the fuel pump. Using extra hookup wire you have laying around to extend the wire to the test leads of  your meter. Disconnect the spade connector( see previous pix of starter) that goes to your solenoid of the starter(so the starter won't turn) and then turn your ignition switch to start. If you are getting power to the pump you should read battery voltage.

If you see voltage and the pump turns you have checked the FI relay, ignition switch, wire to the pump and the fuel pump. If voltage is there and the pump doesn't turn then the pump is bad.

Hope this helps. And yes you very often need to be a one trick pony to work solo on your car.

[Zed Head]

Posted at the same moment as zclocks.

Re the relay -

It should be under the dash by the hood latch release.  A 1x1x2 inch silver unit.  Hard to get to, two screws hold it in place.

If you prop the AFM vane open first you should hear it click when you turn the key on.  It's a typical solenoid, powered through the contact switch in the AFM.

Edited October 2, 2020 by Zed Head

[zclocks]

Hey Zed, 

So the 76 has the same fuel pump shut off as the 75? Wasn't aware of that. 

 

 

[zclocks]

This is the location of the FI relay

[iscnetwork]

I figured from the diagrams it would not be easy to get to, until the picture wasn't exactly even for sure where to find.

Thanks everyone for the input.  I will attempt my next battle tomorrow. 

 

Good night, have some great dreams. 

[iscnetwork]

Fuel pump was bad, circuit is good. 

Didn't get any further than that. The bracket is all messed up, it will need some drilling & tapping to be usable again. 

[Yarb]

Does it have the OE pump installed?

[iscnetwork]

Yes it had an  OEM one installed.
It will not when I am done. 

3 of the screws in the bracket are broken off and the original rubber bumpers are unglued.