Even though the FSM says not to bother un-peen the original nut before removal,  don't believe it!!   They say just put a wrench on it and take it off. Again...  Don't believe it!!

As grannyknot mentioned above, if you take the original off without relaxing the peened area first, it will mess up a bunch of thread. I've tried it and (while still usable), the results weren't pretty.

And as far as being able to un-peen and reuse the original nut, I think it would be very unlikely. More power to ya, but for the cost of a new nut, it's a theory that I wouldn't spend a lot of time trying to prove. I do a lot of unnecessary time consuming stuff like that, but that's below even my threshold!    

Everything these gentlemen (and by that definition I am making a huge assumption of course[emoji12]) have said !!!!!


The only thing I would add to what has already been said, is that having done this job, I did have to take off one side about 4 times as I was getting quite a lot of inexplicable friction when I was using the fish scales to measure pre-load. Thanks to HS30-H’s brilliant advice, it transpired that the seal in discussion hadn’t fully gone home and needed some gentle persuasion to go that final 1/2 mm that made all the difference.

So, plan for undoing that nut and make sure you are super happy before peening!!

1 hour ago, AK260 said:

Everything these gentlemen (and by that definition I am making a huge assumption of course) have said !!!!!


The only thing I would add to what has already been said, is that having done this job, I did have to take off one side about 4 times as I was getting quite a lot of inexplicable friction when I was using the fish scales to measure pre-load. Thanks to HS30-H’s brilliant advice, it transpired that the seal in discussion hadn’t fully gone home and needed some gentle persuasion to go that final 1/2 mm that made all the difference.

So, plan for undoing that nut and make sure you are super happy before peening!!

Right, you see I have a problem with commitment.  My luck, the minute I peened the nut, I would find a reason to have to remove it.  This is why I was wondering if the 280ZX nut is reusable.

A generous amount of red LockTite?...

LOL.  Commitment issues. Here's what I did:

After I got the original peened nuts off, I completely removed the shoulder where the peening was originally located. I cut mine off in a lathe, but you could do the same thing with a file or grinding wheel.

The end result was a "test nut" that I could install and remove any number of times without damage to anything. Using test nuts, I could put everything together and make sure it all worked the way I wanted it to. Here's what my nuts look like:

Then when I was completely convinced everything was done right, I took the test nuts off for the last time and replaced with the one-time-use ZX nuts.

Thanks for showing me your nuts Captain...I think.  🙄

No red loktite!!!

I wouldn't even use blue. It's redundant...

10 hours ago, adivin said:

Thanks for showing me your nuts Captain...I think.  🙄

My pleasure!! 

And I second the Loctite ban. If you use the distorted thread ZX nuts, you won't need any thread lock. And if you use the original style, you'll just peen them. In either event, you won't need any Loctite.

1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

My pleasure!! 

And I second the Loctite ban. If you use the distorted thread ZX nuts, you won't need any thread lock. And if you use the original style, you'll just peen them. In either event, you won't need any Loctite.

I was theorizing about using the original type nut but not peening it and using Loctite instead.  😬

7 hours ago, adivin said:

I was theorizing about using the original type nut but not peening it and using Loctite instead.  😬

3 votes for no locktite, the nuts are $10 a piece, splurge.

10 hours ago, adivin said:

I was theorizing about using the original type nut but not peening it and using Loctite instead.  😬

Yeah... Don't do that.   Haha! !  

Good luck with the project and here's hoping it all goes smooth.

On 9/28/2020 at 11:39 AM, Captain Obvious said:

LOL.  Commitment issues. Here's what I did:

After I got the original peened nuts off, I completely removed the shoulder where the peening was originally located. I cut mine off in a lathe, but you could do the same thing with a file or grinding wheel.

The end result was a "test nut" that I could install and remove any number of times without damage to anything. Using test nuts, I could put everything together and make sure it all worked the way I wanted it to. Here's what my nuts look like:

Then when I was completely convinced everything was done right, I took the test nuts off for the last time and replaced with the one-time-use ZX nuts.

I guess I was lucky or did a good job with the Dremel.  My original nuts once cut with the Dremel spin right back on with no dragging.  I was going to do the same as you, but didn't need to touch them after the initial cutting. I cut one perpendicular slot at the base of the peen and then two parallel slots on either side of the peen.  There was just enough room to get a flat blade screwdriver in the perpendicular slot and break off the peened section.  I did all four peened areas without touching the stub axle threads with the Dremel.

I did get a new Milwaukee M12 cordless "Dremel" that I really like.  It is much easier without fighting the power cord.