240z running rough

[rosaaen89]

1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

Awe man that's needing an acid wash. I don't see any red kote just rust. I can find some info on my cleaning tomorrow. The Tide is on now so I'm OUT.

What is this? Looks like my middle school science project.

 

lmao , that is after the first quart of acetone when i poured it out came a dark brown/orange color. 

[rosaaen89]

this is how it sits currently. after spraying it out at the car wash , 2 tanks of water/baking soda and 2 acetone cleanings.

[rosaaen89]

4 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Where are the coils wires? Maybe they're tucked under? Looks like the air box is taped up in the front. What's the story on that? Your back 3 are missing spark or too much fuel for sure. If it'll crank and idle at all, do that and pull one plug wire at a time and see what it does. Just saw the tank photo. It looks good and clean.

 

the front of the intake has a rubber ring around the opening. was like that when i got it and it has a k&n air filter. the petronix ignition only has one wire going to it it was hooked up that was when i got the vehicle as well. i just swapped out the distributor cap and plug wires. i might swap the cap back an maybe the wires too. 

[siteunseen]

7 hours ago, rosaaen89 said:

this is how it sits currently. after spraying it out at the car wash , 2 tanks of water/baking soda and 2 acetone cleanings.

After acid and baking soda then acetone.

Then Red-Kote

Mine turned out good but it was very much a process thing. You have to do things in order and fast. Sometimes people get in a hurry to get them back in and don't wait out the curing time. It takes every bit of a week. I was rebuilding my motor so mine sat for a month before I put it back in. 

Somebody was talking a replacement tank a month or two ago that is now being reproduced. I'm thinking $600?

Here you go.

 

[rosaaen89]

3 hours ago, siteunseen said:

After acid and baking soda then acetone.

Then Red-Kote

Mine turned out good but it was very much a process thing. You have to do things in order and fast. Sometimes people get in a hurry to get them back in and don't wait out the curing time. It takes every bit of a week. I was rebuilding my motor so mine sat for a month before I put it back in. 

Somebody was talking a replacement tank a month or two ago that is now being reproduced. I'm thinking $600?

Here you go.

 

one i seen on ebay is $660 and ships from the netherlands or new zealand i can’t remember. i just don’t wanna spend that much if i don’t have to. if i do the acid does it have to be coated instantly or can i wait to get it if i order it ? i don’t think anyone local has it but i did see muriatic acid at walmart

[siteunseen]

It cost me $50 and a Saturday afternoon to do mine the way I figured from that Tech Tip I showed you the other day and after reading Red-Kote's instruction sheet.

I think your's has coating settled in the bottom. At first I thought it was rust like the sides have, definitely rust on the sides. I think the previous owner had it cleaned and coated either himself or a radiator shop did it. He put it back in and then fuel too soon now you have what you seen.

I bought everything at Lowes hardware but a few empty 5 gallon buckets, I get those free from work. Speaking of work. I need to go down there a an hour or two but when I get home I'll find my write up I posted for someone a few years ago and link it in this thread. Sometime this afternoon.

Don't spend your $600 yet. Muratic acid and some baking soda from the Dollar Store, acetone and a quart of Red-Kote. You'll be set.

Give me a couple of hours. Cliff

 

[siteunseen]

Okay, here's what I've found. Not necessarily in order so you should read them all. I'm posting specific replies on many threads so click on my username and it'll take you straight to my post. "siteunseen replied to a topic 0/0/00"

To get started off with a laugh there's this...

 

Here's the new sending unit you may want to replace...

Here's a good read from woodworkerb...

http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/

I cannot find my step by step on this! I'm tired of looking too so here's what I can think of today.

material: quart of red kote. quart of acetone. 1 box of baking soda. 1 gallon of muratic acid. at least 4 five gallon buckets. gloves and goggles, maybe a respirator but you can just not breathe the fumes when you smell them

1. cover all the vent openings, I used Gorilla tape I think.

2. get a bucket half full of water and a pound of baking soda. set it aside.

3. pour in the gallon of acid in and carefully but quickly rotate the tank all around. let it eat for about 5 minutes while you constantly keep it rotating.

4. pour the dirty acid in an empty 5 and stay away from those fumes!

5. pour the water and soda mix in to neutralize the acid. rotate that all around and dump it into another empty 5

6. pour the quart of acetone in and rotate it all around. dump it out in a bucket.

7. then as quick as you can uncover all the holes and put a leaf blower in the big hole and get the tank dry ASAP. You want to get the moisture quick or it'll flash rust.

8. pour the quart of Red_Kote in and rotate it all around for a few minutes. set the tank on top of a 5 so it will drain the left over out. while it's draining jab the vents with weed eater cord or guitar strings or what ever you have.

9. put the tank outside in the sun for the rest of the day rotating it every so often until the red kote sets up.

10. put the tank away for at least a week. it's cured when you can no longer smell the red kote. the longer the better.

11. sit down with at least a six pack and pat yourself on the back.

That's it for me today, I'm no typer so I gots to rest but I'm on here everyday and will help you as  best I can if you decide to clean it yourself. Some people get them done at a radiator shop. I don't think they can get the film from the vatting tank off good enough to let the coating seal inside the gas tank. That maybe what happened to yours.

One more thing I remembered. I think I used a bungee cord hooked to one of the holes on the end of the tank to hand it from above to drain the different stuff out. I'm not thinking the tank will rest on top of a 5 gal. bucket. Read the red kote instructions 2 or 3 times. Write out your plan and leave it out so you can check it real quick.

[siteunseen]

O'reilly's keeps this stuff in stock. $32.99, it's gone up a little.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/red-kote-3359/chemicals---fluids-16461/maintenance-chemicals-16867/specialty-25137/fuel-tank-liner-19609/7af7d4e3bb57/damon-industries-red-kote-fuel-tank-liner/redkote/4185410

[rosaaen89]

if i do the muriatic acid and then the acetone at the end before the red kote can i let it sit around my garage until i order the red kote? my local oreilly and in town don’t have it. i’m in the middle of nowhere and won’t get it in for 3-4 days 

[siteunseen]

I wouldn't. You'll get flash rusting. The man that did the Tech Tip, @240260280, didn't coat his without issues. So I suppose after the acid then neutralize with baking soda it doesn't rust?

May he'll chime in and shed some of his vast wisdom on this. 

Oh yeah, order the coating as soon as you can if you've decided to go that route.

Edited October 11, 2020 by siteunseen

[rosaaen89]

i didn’t really plan on coating it since previous owner did and i feel that’s part of the issue with the tank. when i pulled it out noticed it was all sticky before i even did the acetone . he probably didn’t do it correctly like you said before. i just don’t wanna do all the work and have the same outcome

[rosaaen89]

also i found a kyosan denki fuel pump and original fuel rail fairly cheap i can pickup. wonder if going that route would be better with original style fuel pump