1977 280z Won’t Start

[Muzez]

Hi Guys,

1977 280z. Been sitting since last year. Tried to start it this week, but I can’t get it to turn over. While I was making changes over this summer, I knocked off the fuel line to the fuel pump and it drained dry. I think the issue is air in the fuel lines. I am getting a louder than normal fuel pump noise and the fuel damper is empty, but I tried to loosen the fuel hose after fuel filter, there is pressurized fuel. Any ideas for what to test? If it is air in the fuel lines, what’s the best way to to purge?

Changed Since Last Start:

- New Group 24 Battery, fully charged

- Changed engine oil and filters 

- 10 new gallons of premium gasoline

[Zed Head]

The videos are essentially just pictures.  Nothing happens in them.

When you say "turn over" do you mean start or fire?  Or do you mean the engine does not spin when you turn the key to Start?  Usually the word "crank": is used to talk about the engine crankshaft spinning, and "fire" is used to talk about spark causing combustion.  "Turn over" means crank.  Crank, spark, fire.

iscnetwork had a similar problem.  Read that thread.   Probably just a connection that has opened up.

 

[iscnetwork]

I have yet to be able to move the car of its own power. 
The key would not let it crank over, a screw driver worked

but

no spark or power to the coil

no fuel (but that might be normal as someone said above)

I was able to get voltage to the yellow wire this afternoon and so I am hopeful when I get the wiring back together I will be able to crank the car with the ignition key.

I will give it a chance at that point with the MSD to see if I have spark on the coil wire...

IF not MSD comes out. 

Then I will try it with the resistor wired properly for the stock transistor ignition & coil.  (I ordered the ignition module, not knowing if I need it or not yet.)

Any better idea... I am open to suggestions (I was a body man, not a mechanic.).

[Muzez]

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

The videos are essentially just pictures.  Nothing happens in them.

When you say "turn over" do you mean start or fire?  Or do you mean the engine does not spin when you turn the key to Start?  Usually the word "crank": is used to talk about the engine crankshaft spinning, and "fire" is used to talk about spark causing combustion.  "Turn over" means crank.  Crank, spark, fire.

iscnetwork had a similar problem.  Read that thread.   Probably just a connection that has opened up

Thanks for the link @Zed Head. Will test through these steps tomorrow. 

With regards to the videos, apologies. You guys always pick up on crazy things I don’t hear, so I figured I would share in case there was extra data you could gleam from it. Any photos That are helpful?

With regards to “turn over”, the system doesn’t crank. When I turn the key to start, I can hear the  pump running in the back and I can hear a hissing noise in the front near the injectors, but the engine doesn’t crank.

I have power in the cabin (door ajar alarm, brake light, buckle seat belts, full dash. I get a little fluttering in the fuel gauge, which bounces between 3/4 and full (tank is full to the neck). I did have the dash apart earlier to replace the shifter boot, will check the wiring around the dash as well. Battery has been on a trickle charger for 2 months and is brand new.

Testing steps for tomorrow:

- Starter Solinoid testing

- Check wiring around distributor and fuseable links

- Check Neutral/Park switch 

- Check dash wiring for breaks / damage

@iscnetwork how did you start the car with a screw driver?

Also, general question: On the stock 280z from 1977, is the fuel pump self priming? Or does it need to be primed?

Edited September 30, 2020 by Muzez
Clarification

[S30Driver]

He used the screwdriver to activate the starter solenoid by putting it across the small tab to the big + battery connection, bypassing the ignition switch.

If the electric fuel pump is in the stock location behind the tank, it will prime itself.

[Zed Head]

12 hours ago, Muzez said:

 

With regards to “turn over”, the system doesn’t crank. When I turn the key to start, I can hear the  pump running in the back and I can hear a hissing noise in the front near the injectors, but the engine doesn’t crank.

 

The hissing noise is probably fuel passing through the fuel pressure regulator.  That's good.

If the engine does not turn over the first thing to check is the yellow wire at the starter solenoid.  There is much discussion about it in that other thread.  The screwdriver trick will bypass the start switch and supply power directly to the solenoid.  You'll see some sparks and hear the solenoid click if you do it right.  If the engine is not locked up it should turn over.

You can also make your own "remote start switch" with a piece of wire.  Run it from the battery positive post or the end of the cable at the starter and touch the other end to the place where the yellow wire connects.  The starter should get power and turn the engine over.

Be careful when you do these things because you'll be next to the car and if it's in gear it will move.

Edited September 30, 2020 by Zed Head

[iscnetwork]

If this works and the engine cranks.  Remove the ignition switch and check to see if it died with a VOM like mine did (but only on the resistor wire).

otherwise you have lots of relay check and wiring checking to do.

Edited September 30, 2020 by iscnetwork

[Muzez]

If the engine is not locked up it should turn over.

Last I ran the engine was November of last year. Can the engine lock up after sitting for only a year?


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[Muzez]

If this works and the engine cranks.  Remove the ignition switch and check to see if it died with a VOM like mine did (but only on the resistor wire).

otherwise you have lots of relay check and wiring checking to do.

Haven't gotten past page 3 on your post. Did you get yours running?

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[Muzez]

Quick Update. No damaged wires under the dash. Tested the starter on and off the car. Starter works fine on the bench, but doesn’t turn the car over when I bridge with a screw driver. Tested the battery to starter connection and it is fine, as is the battery charge. This makes me think the issue is the engine is siezed.

[iscnetwork]

If the car is in gear can you move the car and see if the fan belt is moving?

To unlock an Engine, take out the spark plugs, [label the wires well] put penetrating oil in every cylinder.  Rock the car back and forth in gear, and it should break free. 

NOTE: penetrating is bad for an engine.  When you can get the car running, change the oil & filter.   Add some SFR oil treatment to new oil.  Change again in 500 miles.  (https://sfrcorp.com/products/category/oil-additives/)

 

[S30Driver]

With the plugs removed, you can also try to rotate the motor (clockwise) with a 27mm or 1 1/16" socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt.  it is easier to do if you remove the fan assembly - 4 10mm nuts.   You may have to let the oil of choice that you put into the cylinders work its way thru the rings for a few days.  Best of luck!