1977 280z Won’t Start

[Zed Head]

9 hours ago, Muzez said:

but doesn’t turn the car over when I bridge with a screw driver.

This makes me think the issue is the engine is siezed.

Does the solenoid click when you bride the terminals?  The solenoid should still move even if the engine is seized.

 

[Muzez]

2 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Does the solenoid click when you bride the terminals?  The solenoid should still move even if the engine is seized.

 

@Zed Head Solenoid clicks when I bride the terminals. It also clicks when I move the key to the start position (when the starter was installed). I heard the click and didn't know what it was until I brided it last night. 

Also, QQ. Since this car has only been sitting for a few months, my hope is that if this is a corrosion issue, it is not bad a bad one. Is there a risk to just putting the car in gear and lightly pushing without having added the penetrating oil to see if its just lightly stuck? Just changed the oil and filter 3 days ago, so would love to not dump all of that good oil. But completely understand adding the penetrating oil if there is any risk to the engine whatsoever. . 

[Zed Head]

If you had a head gasket leak you might have a hydraulic lock.  Shouldn't be rusted tight though.  Are you sure that you don't just have dirty battery terminals?

If you move the car while in gear just do it slowly.  Use 5th gear and rotate a tire by hand.

[Zed Head]

Follow-up thought - take the spark plugs out anyway before trying to get the engine to move, even if you decide not to use penetrating oil.  And might as well squirt some oil in there, but just use regular motor oil, it won't contaminate your new oil.  No offense to anyone, but there's a pretty big gap around the piston top for the oil to get in.  It should not be rusted shut after a few months.  Not really an application for penetrating oil, I think.  Leave the plugs out when you try to turn the engine.

Just did a circle back to oil in the cylinders.  Can't see a reason for the engine to be locked up though.  Maybe it's just a weak or jammed starter.  Are you sure the engine is in neutral?

[Muzez]

4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Are you sure that you don't just have dirty battery terminals?

Replaced the terminals last night since the terminals were pretty scuzzy and @wheee! tempted me with some attractive clear terminals. Was not an issue. 

4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

If you move the car while in gear just do it slowly.  Use 5th gear and rotate a tire by hand.

Good advice, will check tonight. Out of curiosity, in 5th gear because it has lower torque?

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Follow-up thought - take the spark plugs out anyway before trying to get the engine to move, even if you decide not to use penetrating oil.  And might as well squirt some oil in there, but just use regular motor oil, it won't contaminate your new oil.  No offense to anyone, but there's a pretty big gap around the piston top for the oil to get in.  It should not be rusted shut after a few months.  Not really an application for penetrating oil, I think.  Leave the plugs out when you try to turn the engine.

Just did a circle back to oil in the cylinders.  Can't see a reason for the engine to be locked up though.  Maybe it's just a weak or jammed starter.  Are you sure the engine is in neutral?

Will try this tonight. The transmission is definitely in neutral, I am able to spin the rear wheels freely. Maybe I can try jumping the starter directly and take the battery & battery wires out of the equation?  

Looping back to the fuel system; I am assuming that with this old of a car, it is not smart enough to detect low fuel pressure and deactivate the starter correct? That's the only other major thing I changed in this system. 

[Zed Head]

14 minutes ago, Muzez said:

Maybe I can try jumping the starter directly and take the battery & battery wires out of the equation?  

Looping back to the fuel system; I am assuming that with this old of a car, it is not smart enough to detect low fuel pressure and deactivate the starter correct? That's the only other major thing I changed in this system. 

Worth a shot.  Since you know it works when the starter is off the car.

These cars really only have the switch in the AFM as a safety system.  Or the interlock that iscnetwork is messing with, which you shouldn't have.  That's about it.  The starter should always work.  Several of us have used it to move our cars off the road by putting it in gear and turning the key to Start.

Since you're getting a click though, that means the solenoid is getting power.  Not clear what's going on with yours.  Good luck, keep trying stuff.

 

[iscnetwork]

On my '63, the solenoid inside had arced and corroded so much over time that it would not get enough amps to the starter to run in.  I just had to file down the brass bars and all was good again.

[Patcon]

I am not sure I read all the post closely enough but I recently had to replace a bad cable on my skidsteer. It did a similar thing it ohm'd out and voltage was good, but it wouldn't pass enough current to spin the starter.

Point being, check all the connections and make sure the battery is good. Add a jump box or use a know good battery. Try spinning it with the starter with the plugs removed to narrow down the problem

[Muzez]

@Zed Head, @Patcon, @iscnetwork IT LIVESSSSSSS!!!!!! Put the starter it back on the car and jumped the car from the starter and that got it to turn over. Not sure why that did it. I can now start it using the key and battery. Maybe it just needed a little extra juice to break it loose the first time? Or the process worked loose some corrosion that I wasn't able to see. Either way, its running! 

[iscnetwork]

Great news. Send pictures of your Z for people to see.

[Muzez]

@iscnetwork Planning to give her a bath tonight since she is covered in dust from sitting all year, so more photos to come tonight. In the meantime, something to get your started.  

[iscnetwork]

Thanks I like seeing photos of other Z cars.  I miss not being in a big city where there is a club of Z owners close by.