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Hatch Lock Button


Wally

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Pretty similar. Bet the rear arms fit the same way, just swap on your Z arm. 

at the very worst you might have to file off or modify the little protrusions that fit the notches, or file out the notches to fit the new lock.

image.jpg

image.jpg

Hmmmm, someone needs to add better lighting on this parts room table.....

Edited by zKars
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That would be really cool if you can just swap the actuation arms and drop it in. I know there have been people looking for replacements for that hatch lock.

There needs to be some sort of non-round feature between the arm and lock cylinder so the arm doesn't slip on the post. Here's how it works for the stock one:
P1010937.JPG

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ok got it in. It fits perfectly. only 1 issue. The rectangle hole in the brass plate needs to be vertical not horizontal. This will allow the key to turn right which is needed as that is where the lever to open the hatch is. I have tested and it will open. So this lock is viable.

My metal crafting is horrid. If anyone else gets this lock and makes a new plate i would appreciate one too. Will pay for it.

IMG_1726.jpg

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Great news that the lock barrel fits the hole in the hatch.

Did you not have the original lock with its attached arm on the back? The flat arm with the rectangular slot on the one you just bought isn’t the same shape as the stock one, and isn’t likely to work.  I can send you one of my spare lock sets to scavenge the arm off of it if you don’t don’t have one.

Edited by zKars
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Car i bought didnt come with a hatch lock. The lock i bought does fit and does work. If you have 4 notches instead of 3 that is. i tested it and it will hit the open latch, you just cant turn it right and lock it (it turns left. Thanks for the offer. Let me see first if i can just take a 1/8th inch plate and make that hole. If i can that will work. 

 

 

 

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Since the hatch lock linkage doesn't see any rotational torque force, I think a sloppy hole fit on the back of the cylinder would be fine. You need it to be drawn tight against the back of the cylinder, but the mounting screw takes care of that. I think that hole could be a really loose sloppy fit on the back post and it would still work.

You wouldn't be able to do that on the doors because you have to rotate them to get actuation, but on the hatch, that's not the case. It's push to actuate.

And when you lock the hatch, it just turns the cylinder so that linkage misses it's target and just waves in the air. So there's no issue there either. It's not like that linkage blocks anything... it misses.

Edited by Captain Obvious
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Can’t see how the arm bar that came with that new hatch lock will work with the z hatch release. Look at my picture of the stock lock and arm bar, and imagine the location of that little bolt that’s threaded into the end of the stock arm, relative to the body of the lock. It is above the end of the lock.

 

818301A8-5076-4782-ABC7-4E49B2810846.jpeg

0FE960F1-4580-4BF6-9815-4E7F12C4741D.png

That bolt head is what touches the release thingy that unlocks the hatch when you push down on the lock body to release it. The new arm, and its long threaded bolt, are much much farther below the end of the lock body. It cannot rotate over into the open position and be located properly above the release arm on the latch. Unless you bend that new arm to resemble the stock one, I don’t think you have a workable solution

Edited by zKars
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