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how to sell original series I 240z?


orangecounty240z

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Hi!

To my surprise, my dad has decided to sell his baby, a series 1 240z. I know the value of these is pretty high and need your advice on how to sell it.

He is the only owner, and it has under 90k miles, which he has documentation for. It is all original except: radiator (oem replacement), brake pads, oil filter, headlights (generic), spark plug wires and plugs (generic), distributor rotor and points (generic), engine hoses (oem replacement), some hose clamps (non oem replacements), aftermarket shocks and struts, wheels (mom bought him a set of mags for Christmas 1970 - he kept the covers but not the steel wheels), tires, hatch strut, battery, and antenna (oem replacement). He says he may have changed the pedal pads but can't remember. It runs great. All original rubber trim still looks good.

Known flaws: rear bumper was rechromed around 1980 due to a ding, radio (AM only) does not work, exhaust is rusty, tachometer does not work, heater does not work, antenna does not extend, several door dings (some of which show surface rust) and a few shallow door dents from parking, paint is peeling a bit on the inside of the hood (about 7 square inches of metal are exposed, no rust yet), a few spots of surface rust.  Inside of the hood, where the fan is, has 2 square feet of surface rust looking paint - not sure what's going on there, but dad thinks the fan splashed water there when it was wet. Paint is all original but oxidized and faded.  The chrome bits show some surface oxidation, not pitted and I think can be polished out. Clock doesn’t work. The spare well is perfect, but the flat area under the hatch carpet has cracked paint - don’t see rust there either.

I have done extensive reading on this and other forums. I checked all the common rust spots and they're great. I have not yet gotten it on a lift to check the underside but what I can see looks fine, including inside the wheel wells.

Questions: 1. where should we sell it? Bring a trailer, conventional auctions, private/forum sale?

2. what should we fix? I can try to find a set of 1970 wheels, and mount those instead of the mags (the mags don’t even have any curb rash but the center caps are rusty). I can try to find original wires and plugs, headlights, etc. The dash has never been out, so he didn’t replace the tach; we don’t think we have the skill to do so without damaging something. I can have the dents pushed out, and the rust spots cleaned and put on touch up paint (impossible to match maybe?). I will definitely have it deep detailed to restore the luster of the paint. Or should I do it myself? Been reading about it, the paint is so thin I am worried about a detailer using the wrong products on it and damaging it. I’m happy to put in the time to waterless wash and buff it by hand.

3. any recommendations on detailers in SoCal? We're in Orange County but can drive/trailer it anywhere from LA to SD.

4. If you think we should have the non OEM parts and broken parts and paint problems professionally replaced, which shops do you recommend? I’m willing to pay to ship it somewhere if the right shop is not in the LA area.

Thanks for any advice!

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This area will be a problem.  Kidding.  Any chance you could take a few steps back and take some of the whole car?

There's potential for a low miles, low number 240Z, but there are a lot of dents there.  What happened?  Those aren't normal.

image.png

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small garage, big 80s car and a hyper kid who threw his door open no matter how many times he was told to be careful 😓

Yeah a broker who reviewed thinks it's only worth 50k in current condition. I'm now thinking it needs a repaint? External panels and hood only? Except that would leave the hatch area with cracked paint. I need to research the paint and dent removal cost, I don't think any areas will need metal work just clean the rust off the surface. But if that ends up being like $25k and after the work it'll sell for $100k then I think it makes sense to do.

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I know the market is hot for these right now, but I’d be pretty surprised if you would be able to get $100k even after a total restore. Heck, if you can get $50k for it as is then you should just jump on that in a heartbeat. This one is pretty close to what you have, though in better condition and still a reliable daily driver, and sold for low $40k 

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-51/

 

From the few pictures I’ve seen, your Z looks to be in mostly good condition for its age, and is a good candidate for light restoration / repair, but I think the visible rust and flaking paint will deter the higher bidders. But, that’s just my opinion... all you need are two people with deep pockets that really want it.

Edited by zeeboost
Auto correct strikes again
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interesting, thanks! That's a lot lower than I would have expected, I thought all original 1970 models were going for much more than that.

Yes I agree, the issues it has right now will probably deter the high bidders. I need advice on how/what to fix.

But if it's only worth around $40k right now I am betting my dad will just want to keep it, I got him interested in selling by telling him about the ones I saw selling for over $100.

Thanks!

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You'll know more about the market in two days, see link below.  Your car is far from this one in quality.  But, it would behoove you (always wanted to use behoove) if you want maximum price to collect any original paper work your dad has collected.  The early cars' values are affected by provenance (another good word).  

 

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The cars that bring serious money are clean original paint cars for the most part. If you paint it, I think you lose most of that. Motorman7 might be able to help you bring it up. He has a very good body man. It can be a nice car but I'm not sure you'll be any money ahead to paint it versus the way it sits. Zed is right, the more paper history you have the better and one owner helps too.  The poor paint condition really discounts it IMO

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