DCOE 40 "burn your eyes rich"

[240260280]

It will be stamped on the sides:

 

0.40mm idle jet

 

 

1.10mm main jet

 

 

 

[chaseincats]

He's out of town until Monday - I'll get back to you then.  Thanks for all your help so-far.

@240260280 Gotcha on the main and idle jets, any recommended stats for emulsion tube?

[jitenshakun]

Don't be afraid to mix it up. None of the internet jetting worked for me.

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[240260280]

18 minutes ago, chaseincats said:

He's out of town until Monday - I'll get back to you then.  Thanks for all your help so-far.

@240260280 Gotcha on the main and idle jets, any recommended stats for emulsion tube?

E tube changes do not make a big differences except for the diameter of the tube. If you have F2 tubes then that would be very rich.  F11, F16 are typical and should be fine for initial tuning.  

Jet sizes and fuel depth would be the first things to check.

Also mechanical linkage is Very important. The throttle plates should all be closed as much as possible at idle before you attach the mechanical push rod ends.

One tuning tip to ensure the linkage is right is to pull each plug one at a time and measure how much the idle drops.... you can quickly find out if one carb is working more than the others due to the mechanical linkage incorrectly opening the plates on that carb too much. This should be done at idle and off idle to cover the bases. 

Edited October 17, 2020 by 240260280

[siteunseen]

Here's the one I remember, it's a long thread but full of information. 

 

[chaseincats]

Have some main/idle jets & emulsion tube pictures.

It looks like they say:

• main jet/emulsion tube: 60F6, F11
• idle jet: 125

Any ideas? 

[jitenshakun]

Idle jet lean to rich goes:

 

F3, F1, F7, F1, F4, F2, F13, F11, F8, F9, F12, F6

 

At 60 I'd say the pig rich is because it's the richest possible AND too big.

 

 

Lean to rich on Emulsion goes:

 

F11, F15, F16, F2, F8 and F7.

 

The F11 you have is a lean choice, but emulsion tubes are a bit tricky. They change how and when you main jets work under acceleration, so impact how much the idle has to do.

 

The 125 main jet might be about right.

 

For now, I'd scale way back on the idle jet, like 55F2, and leave the main and emulsion. I prefer to go one step at a time but 60F6 is way out there.

 

I run a 55F13 on my L28 block.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[chaseincats]

1 minute ago, jitenshakun said:

Idle jet lean to rich goes:

F3, F1, F7, F1, F4, F2, F13, F11, F8, F9, F12, F6

At 60 I'd say the pig rich is because it's the richest possible AND too big.

For a L24 try a 55F2.

Lean to rich on Emulsion goes:

F11, F15, F16, F2, F8 and F7.

F7 is a pretty safe bet, so the F11 you have is an interesting choice.

The 125 main jet might be about right.

For now, I'd scale way back on the idle jet.

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Awesome info, thanks!

The car has an L26 instead of an L24 - would that change any of these ratings or are those pretty universal for all L-series engines?

[jitenshakun]

Awesome info, thanks!

The car has an L26 instead of an L24 - would that change any of these ratings or are those pretty universal for all L-series engines?

The "book values" sometimes lump the L24 and L26 values together, which doesn't make complete sense. No engine runs exactly the same so I'd always be prepared to move "off book" with Weber jetting.

 

I run an F7 emulsion tube and the only place that said that was the way to go was the Deshammill book; all the online Datsun stuff said I should run a leaner emulsion tube.

 

In this case I'd have a hard time believing the 60F6 idle jet is the right one for the L26. I'm sure it guarantees the car will start when you bolt on the Webers by virtue of being so rich, which might be why they spec the kit with them.

 

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