Starting Carb Conversion: Flat Tops to Paltechs

[CanTechZ]

@w3wilkeshere are a few pics of my 1970 Canadian spec (HLS30UN). It has a similar linkage part to the OP but without the screw hole.

@dutchzcarguy What year is your Euro spec car. I see it has the E41 balance tube, but it has an E88 Intake and some of the fitting spots on top of the balance tube are drilled & tapped for extra fittings, unlike mine. Just curious.

[w3wilkes]

54 minutes ago, CanTechZ said:

@w3wilkeshere are a few pics of my 1970 Canadian spec (HLS30UN). It has a similar linkage part to the OP but without the screw hole.

The part you refer to without the screw hole is actually part of the stock USA linkage. There is another part on the USA linkage that has the screw to adjust the throttle deceleration opener. On my car I've removed the Control Valve and Servo Diaphragm in the image in post #43 of this thread by @siteunseen which leaves the throttle opener bar with screw to flop around, red arrow in photo. It looks like this bar may be removable it the linkage is disassembled.

Edited January 21, 2021 by w3wilkes

[CanTechZ]

29 minutes ago, w3wilkes said:

The part you refer to without the screw hole is actually part of the stock USA linkage. There is another part on the USA linkage that has the screw to adjust the throttle deceleration opener. On my car I've removed the Control Valve and Servo Diaphragm in the image in post #43 of this thread by @siteunseen which leaves the throttle opener bar with screw to flop around, red arrow in photo. It looks like this bar may be removable it the linkage is disassembled.

 

Thanks for clarifying, makes sense now.

Cheers

[Captain Obvious]

 CanTechZ, The linkage between the two carbs on your Canadian car looks the same as the one they used for Europe. And as mentioned above, the US version is different.

10 hours ago, w3wilkes said:

It looks like this bar may be removable it the linkage is disassembled.

Not without a torch. The linkage is brazed together. Best bet (and something I have done in the past) is to remove it mechanically with saws and files.

And speaking of such things... @Dadsun , I wish I had known you weren't going to run the throttle opener when I sent those other parts. I think I've got said 240 linkage piece here with that part of the linkage removed. I'll see if I can find it and snap a pic.

[Freez74]

I also would like to remove this unused piece from my linkage.  I wonder if it could be split lengthwise with a small rotary cutoff tool, and separated from the shaft.

[dutchzcarguy]

20 hours ago, CanTechZ said:

What year is your Euro spec car. I see it has the E41 balance tube, but it has an E88 Intake and some of the fitting spots on top of the balance tube are drilled & tapped for extra fittings, unlike mine. Just curious.

It comes from a Dutch 1972 240z car (sitting on a US. 240z 1971 now.)  I took a look at a euro version balance tube and inlet parts in my "warehouse" and they were also E41 for the tube and E88 for inlets..

21 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I don't think we ever got that damper device in the US.

I only know it was on a Dutch 1972 240z.  It had a little bigger damper sitting there but it was to damaged to restore so i used this smaller one ..  I must say it did'nt work very well (it's work was to let the engine rpm's take a slow lowering so it woudn't stall..  (haha.. stall... i never stalled a 240z engine..) )  So i took it off.. it was also to damaged inside it was'nt working very well..   The last 14 years i drove without it and do not mis that thing at all.

My 240z is a usa car from feb 1971 with the non emission parts of a Dutch 1972 240z that i bought in 1991 for scrap..  The Dutch car was rusted away but was an excellent car for euro parts!  The usa car was from california and had a 2,5 mm floor (!!!) in it with lots of bondo to make it watertight...  also the beams under the floor were NON existend!!!!!   I made by hand a completly new floor in the car as it was original.. pff.. ( Lots of work but now it's made from 0.8 mm steel with zinc coating.)

[Captain Obvious]

I took some pics. Here's are a pair of linkages for between the two round-top carbs. (Obviously) the top one has the throttle opener pivot, and the bottom one has had it removed:

Shot from the end showing the throttle opener arm:

And here you can see the file marks from where the pivot was removed from the other linkage. I (think I) did this, but it's been so long that the details have faded. In any event, here's the linkage with the pivot and brazed washer mechanically removed:

[Captain Obvious]

And just so the flat-top guys don't feel out in the cold... Here's a pair of linkages for between the two flat-top carbs. Same scenario as above. One has had the throttle opener arm removed, but the washer is still present:

It looks like it was done with a hacksaw or cutting disk. Again, I (probably) did this some time ago, but don't remember the details. Whoever did it was clever enough to place the saw slit on the underside where it wouldn't be noticeable when installed. I like to think I'm that clever. Here's a pic:

[Captain Obvious]

And one more pic just to round out the collection... I'm always mentioning that the center linkage for the round-tops is longer than the linkage for the flat tops.

Here's the two side-by-side so you can see the difference(s). I tried to line up the right ends for the pic:

[Dadsun]

Interesting stuff. Now I understand the role of it and why the zip tie. I'll live with it for now. Been trying to get the balancing and tuning going. I've never tuned a carb so I'm drinking from the firehouse. I think I got it better today. Here's the pic of the new under the hood.  Shiny!

I used a Colortune on the middle spark plugs (2 and 5) to see if I could tune the mixture with it. Anyone used it before? It worked fine for a while then it seemed to just show me yellow (too rich) all the time no matter what I did. Eventually I just screwed the mixture nuts all the way up and backed them down about 3/4 full turn.

[Dadsun]

I went back and looked at the quick and dirty SU tuning thread and will try his suggestions on the mixture. While I'm under the hood, I am looking to replace the points with Pertronix electronic ignition (pictured). 

I've looked through the archives here and see some upgrade to the 3.0ohm coil and bypass the resistor. Thoughts? I'm assuming I don't have to do that right now; that the ignition swap will work along with everything else and also not disrupt my original tachometer.

[siteunseen]

I went the easiest way. ZX e12-80 distributor and a Crane ps 20 fireball 1.4 ohm coil. You do take the resistor block out and the tach works. A lot of people run the Pertronix setup so I assume it works good. I know the ZX dizzy requires an adapter sort of part to work on the older Zs. Not sure about the Pertronix.