brunodoggy Posted October 26, 2020 Share #13 Posted October 26, 2020 35 minutes ago, Dave WM said: did you get a chance to check out the AC? just wondering if possible the R12 has not leaked out. Actually we did have to disconnect the AC line to clean some surface rust caused by weeping brake fluid from the master cylinder. We were surprised to find some pressure in the line. In hindsight we would have pumped it out, but since we didn't expect to find any, we didn't. Lesson learned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave WM Posted October 26, 2020 Share #14 Posted October 26, 2020 (edited) have you tried pulling a vacuum? also you will have to replace the drier now (prob got moisture in while disconnected). The drier if its the 33286 style is NLA, so you have a choice, have it rebuilt (can be done, have to cut open and replace desicant) or bend up the hard lines to fit one that is close but not exact fit. R-12 can be had and would be the way to go. having pressure in it means good chance the internals will be ok. Pulling the vacuum and seeing how it holds will tell a lot. The OE compressor is very sturdy, I have the OE in my 75 and it works just fine. You should check the small filter on the firewall high side, its under the fitting, just make sure its clear (do this while the system is not pressurized). Edited October 26, 2020 by Dave WM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave WM Posted October 26, 2020 Share #15 Posted October 26, 2020 (edited) another thing to check, see if the evap line is clear back to the over flow tank. Its the hard line that is routed with the fuel and rear brake lines. Mine was rusted, rendering the evap non functional. Its steel and can have condensate in it, making rust a problem, more so that even fuel lines. If you can blow thru it you should be ok. Its got designed restriction, but still you should be able to blow air thru it. I cut the bottom section out (where the rust was) and used some hard plastic line to replace. It was beyond clearing with cleaners and air, solid rust internally. If you opt to replace it with steel, its a pita, lots of bends and have to remove the various lines to get access into the rubber mounts used to route the other lines. I love originality but only if it functions as well. If not I fix it with OE if possible. Edited October 26, 2020 by Dave WM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted October 26, 2020 Share #16 Posted October 26, 2020 It's out there now. https://www.autoevolution.com/news/barn-find-1976-datsun-280z-gets-washed-for-the-first-time-in-44-years-150616.html 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brunodoggy Posted October 26, 2020 Share #17 Posted October 26, 2020 15 minutes ago, Zed Head said: It's out there now. Thanks, I see that. The AMMO video has had over 460,000 views in less than 24 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted October 26, 2020 Share #18 Posted October 26, 2020 16 hours ago, brunodoggy said: If you are interested, here is a web site I'm working on to tell the story of this car. www.350mile280z.com http://350mile280z.com/ Holy moly! That is a great read out for your car. Great pictures too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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