I dont recall but are you sure your fuel is good. Fresh and no water?

Have you verified fuel pressure? I recommend plumbing a gauge in aand watching it while it idles and when you drive.

There are two parameters that are important,  pressure and flow. You could have pressure but low flow and it would idle well but not spool up. I know the dizzy has some issues but this sounds like a fueling issue to me.

19 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I dont recall but are you sure your fuel is good. Fresh and no water?

Have you verified fuel pressure? I recommend plumbing a gauge in aand watching it while it idles and when you drive.

There are two parameters that are important,  pressure and flow. You could have pressure but low flow and it would idle well but not spool up. I know the dizzy has some issues but this sounds like a fueling issue to me.

Prior to installing the new pump, i drained the tank and inserted a camera.  tank looked very clean, no rust.  i will pick up a fuel gauge tmrw to rule that out.  but im sure its fine given that car ran fine with CAP raised.

anyone recalls how much pressure i should maintain? is it 45 psi?  any gotchas to watch out for?  dont be shy guys to share the mistakes leading to damaging Fuel pump....LOL

I am not sure the cap being raised doesn't change the spark, making ignition easier, but that is above my paygrade.

Meanwhile, anyone knows how to use this tool or have link to manual?

 

IRA, Did you buy this analyzer? 

12 minutes ago, Yarb said:

IRA, Did you buy this analyzer? 

Yeah, it was one of my desperate moves a while back!  did i mess up?

in the FSM, page 132,  its suggesting to do an ignition oscilloscope test.  anyone has any clarification on how to do that?  can't find much on google or youtube. 

What's here?

3 hours ago, ira said:

Meanwhile, anyone knows how to use this tool or have link to manual?

Delete all of that.  What are you looking at?  Page 132?  Just go to page 20 of the EFEC chapter.  1982.

Edited December 20, 20204 yr by Zed Head

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Delete all of that.  What are you looking at?  Page 132?  Just go to page 20 of the EFEC chapter.  1982.

tnx Zed..i was on page 14..lol

Hello Folks, hope all is well

 

Some good news to share...

today was my first attempt back at it. , i first made sure CAP is tight, it started up immediately.  After 10min or so, car is behaving same old way and idle got too rough it was about to shut off. . 

i then unplugged the throttle sensor harness.  the car immediately went  from choking to healthy idle.  it still had a tinny little miss every now and then..BUT, i was able to tell immediate engine is no longer restricted or choked 

took it for a spin and sure enough, very responsive, full of power, turbo kicked in all the way.  i can safely say i had %100 performance again.

 

Q, what should i TS to rule this out?

 

FYI, i did use electric cleaner on the ECU and the AFM,it made no diff

 

 

I haven't read your whole thread because I just don't have the effort to scroll through 7 pages.  But, just curious if you've already swapped out the cap and rotor for a genuine Nissan product?  I've seen stuff like this happen with the cheap Chinese knock offs.  I'd hate to see 7 pages of debugging information only to find out that your cap/rotor combo are poor quality or maybe even the wrong part?  Just throwing ideas, again apologies if this has already been asked.

I've done a lot of work on engines in my lifetime to know that cheap parts only cost you money (and time).