It looks like innovate makes something like that to hold the o2 sensor into the tail pipe.

https://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3728-Exhaust-Cast-Stainless/dp/B000CO9MF8/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=innovate+lm2&qid=1608691530&sr=8-7
 

seems straight forward to DIY.

Thanks for the info.  I've had a procto like that done to my car by Dr. @240260280 with his LM-1.

The LM-1 (and it's successor the LM-2) are designed to be used that way and not tied to any specific vehicle. The analog gauge I bought is intended to be installed in one vehicle and left there. I'm just wondering if things like the heater control are robust enough to be able to deal with being so far downstream from the engine heat source. That kind of thing?

I ended up returning the AEM wideband that I got and got a LM-2 because of the RPM data that can also be collected. They both share the Bosch LMU 4.9 sensor, I’m not sure if the LM-2 has a different mode selection to change the heating characteristics of the o2 sensor if you use the tail pipe tool.

The only thing that the lm-2 manual says about the exhaust clamp is that you can get false lean warnings on light loads. 

With the AEM unit it warmed up in a couple of seconds and was giving a reading. 
 

Perhaps it’s not recommended by the manufacturer, the exhaust tailpipe tool sections are omitted from the MTX-AL manual.

The trick with the tail pipe measurement is to use a long test pipe that goes deep into the muffler and samples exhaust gas-only.  The commercial one is short and allows dilution of the exhaust with ambient air.

11 hours ago, 240260280 said:

The trick with the tail pipe measurement is to use a long test pipe that goes deep into the muffler and samples exhaust gas-only. 

Gotcha. I'm sure I could figure out something for that.

So I never looked real closely at the business end of your sniffer. What does the sensor look like? Just your normal threaded O2 sensor mounted on that bracket? Or is it a different style sensor that was never intended to be threaded into a bung?

You heard of El Chapo from the South?

I am El-Cheapo from the North 🙂

I just used copper pipe.  (Not good as the solder melts in the heat 😞 )

 

Here is a bad drawing.  The longer 1/2" pipe is open on the left and the exhaust gas enters there.

It goes though 4 90 degree elbows (hard to draw)  to turn the gas 180 degrees and also to allow the two long pipes to squeeze together.

The gas then enters the T, travels up the 2nd 1/2" pipe (capped) and scavenging pulls the exhaust out through a hole in the side.

The T has a thick copper adapter inside. I could thread this with a tap. The O2 sensor goes in.  I believe I used a spark plug thread cleaner as the tap as it was the same thread.

 

If I were to do it again, I'd make it out of aluminum and thread the pipe joints.  The U turn/ sensor mount would be a drilled block.

I'd also dill a hole where you could safety-wire it to the hatch mechanism. 

 

 

 

 

 

So El-Cheapo From The North, the sensor for your LM-1 looks like your normal O2 sensor? Threads and all?

Just a hint if you plan to use AFM, RPM and TPS don't go with the LM-2.

It works perfectly fine with AFM and RPM but when you add TPS it's unstable.

The LM-2 frezes and you have to restart it every few minutes, sometimes it is stable. Its quite random (I'm not the only one with this problem).

The LM-1 works perfectly fine but not the LM-2.

13 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

So El-Cheapo From The North, the sensor for your LM-1 looks like your normal O2 sensor? Threads and all?

Yes. It is a Bosch unit.

11 hours ago, munters said:

Just a hint if you plan to use AFM, RPM and TPS don't go with the LM-2.

It works perfectly fine with AFM and RPM but when you add TPS it's unstable.

The LM-2 frezes and you have to restart it every few minutes, sometimes it is stable. Its quite random (I'm not the only one with this problem).

The LM-1 works perfectly fine but not the LM-2.

What firmware version are you using on it? 

Thanks for the details El Cheapo. Now I just have to wait for spring!!