Here's what Innovate says in the user's manual for the gauge:

"Using a clock as reference, mount the bung between the 9:00 o’clock and 3:00 o’clock position. Welding the bung in the lower section of the exhaust pipe can result in sensor damage caused by condensation making contact with the sensor’s internal heating element."

My interpretation of that is "anywhere along the top half of the tube is OK."  That said, I think I would rather have it a little off 12:00 for the surface tension reasons Dutch mentioned.

So, Mr CO, did it ever arrive?

It's sooooooo pretty....

Prepare to become a geek CO! ;)

Prepare to become a geek CO! ;)

Wait... You're saying I'm not already a geek?     

Wait... You're saying I'm not already a geek?     

An analogue geek in a digital world!

Haha!! Guilty as charged!

So I'll have to install some data collection software somewhere to hook up to the gauge. It certainly won't be to my phone...

On ‎11‎/‎8‎/‎2020 at 11:00 AM, Jeff Berk said:

If you are talking about the heating element on O2 sensors, that's there just to get them up to operating temperature (~600F http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/understanding_oxygen_sensors.asp). After a few minutes, I don't think you don't need it. 

@Jeff Berk I did a little digging into the heating element and how it's used. My (admittedly limited) research indicates that you are correct if you're talking about the older O2 sensors which would run the heating element all the time, but the new ones are monitored and modulated by the engine computer.

In order to achieve A/F sensor accuracy, they want the sensor to stay at a constant temperature at all time, so they modulate the power sent to the heater to keep the temp constant. Older sensors didn't need that level of control, they just need to be really hot, but the newer wide band sensors need to stay at a constant temp.

Here's the best article I could find about the whole thing:

https://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/articles/1097-oxygen-sensor-heaters-how-do-you-know-if-that-heater-fault-code-is-real

Captain 

Looks like the O2 sensor is more complicated than I thought. Sorry to send you on a goose chase (turkey chase?)

Jeff

No, no, no... No apologies necessary! I ended up with the benefit of knowledge!

The scary part now is I'm thinking "I could program up a little microcontroller to do that easy!"      

Which microcontroller were you planning to use? I got a few ESP8266 that were intended for a different project. They have built-in wifi modules, perhaps they can be used like a relay to forward the data to a computer.

After seeing this thread earlier in the week I ordered an AEM wideband AFM, as I had the exhaust off the car. looks like I need to mess with my floats a bit. 😬